Hi!

I want to add a performance Cam to my EF but I recently heard that the head wont accomodate anything other than the original, is this true? If so, what is involved in fitting a performance head? Like what extra parts do I need? Also, want is the difference between a performance one and the stock one?

I would prefer to get the 'Race' series head from JMM, but am unsure what else I'll need to fit it (or to get it fitted)? Anything short of porting and polishing I would like to add, values, etc. just not to sure of everything under that cover

Any info will go a long away and I'll be grateful for any info, helpful or not.

Thanks guys!

there are MANY options of cam for an E series car.

EL hybrid and AU have the unusual head that makes the cam change a little harder.

some cams require shims (usually for a regrind) however some of the most aggressive profiles need things like a chip or bigger springs or such.

there are a few threads on people putting reasonable sized cams in and getting a lot more out of the car

do you have any links to those threads? (dont mean to sound lazy but man it's hard to find what you're after...)

Last edited by kstevo on Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

So I'm going to assume you've done a search, at all, in general?

EFs will accept a fairly meaty cam which will reap around 140rwkw with the other obvious mods, and still run on the stock computer. This is the 1673 Wade cam, though I'm sure JMM have gotten more out of the stock ECU, well for $5k they'd bloody well want to. Honestly, I think JMM is way overpriced, and not worth it. If you're going to spend that much money on an NA motor, then the 4.0 probably isnt the smartest choice. But if you still want to spend that much on it, turbo it.

For a regrind cam from wade you need to add a set of shims on the rocker arms to offset whats been ground off an original stock cam. Bout 50-60bux for 12 shims from Ford.
Otherwise you can get a Billet cam, which will slot straight in, no shims. $350+ though.

You can also buy good cams from Crow, and probably others.

A performance cam changes how long and when the ports open, higher lift and all that jazz, but generally you lose a bit of torque down low until the cam comes on, then it should be a very noticeable increase over stock, depending of course on cam selection and installation.

Just to give you an idea, a stock cam in a car with the usual mods (extractors, exhaust, intake) will pull aound 110-120kw (dyno dependant - dead stockers are around 100rwkw)
With the 1673 cam I mentioned previously, you can expect ~140rwkw. Fairly noticeable difference.
This is still with a stock head, no porting.
I'll have that cam in by the end of next week. Should be sweet.

K I'm going to sleep now :S

Wow 20kw increase sounds pretty attractive! So would I just need another set of standard EF shims from Ford?

Thanks for that info! Extremely helpful!

depending on the cam you might need more shims, your mechanic should be able to figure out whats needed there (i assume your using a mechanic), some need 1 extra, and ive seen 4 added to each rocker on some.

i was getting 145rwkw, with full exhaust and an rpd r3 cam, on a stock head (bar valve springs) and stock ecu. having a well ported head/bigger valves made a good improvement on the road but never managed to dyno it as the motor died soon after (its on a stand at home being put back to gether slowly).

do some homework as there are other places dealing with the 4.0 than mr.mock, the homework could save you alot of heartache later on, and look at where you want your power, as all top end is not useually suited to an auto car etc.

With a mild street cam like a WADE 1636 expect about 10rwkw gain. Good for a auto with stock ecu with zorst and intake mods. You will need extra shims from ford and about $140 for the regrind cam maybe cheaper???.

All you can go a billet cam that doesn't require extra shims and slots in without any fuss. Crow billet cams go from anywhere $250-$400 depending where you get them from.

Have a look at the wade cam link on forum;

Cheers..

Do not buy a cam from JMM (mock). Its a bit like playing roulette, some have luck, others don't. Judging by posts on here, people either love or hate their cams. (I have a DEV 5 Head/Cam in my shed) I found the DEV 5 cam to be very distructive (created problems) for my engine, plus for just under $2000 (including head etc), its not really worth it.

I now run a custom surecam (see link in sig) and the car is awesome.

Just becareful on what cam/head mods you do as the EF runs coil packs and they can't be advanced like a distributor in EA/EB/ED/ELs.

Best advice, drive a mates car or go for ride in a members car to see what type of mods you would like. EG, you might prefer that better diff ratios and a stally (if ur auto) might suit better.

Hrmm... just there's not too many done up Fords round here, I'll end just having to hope I pick a good cam.

Can I swap the EF's coil pack to the EL's distributor?

Anyone had good experiences with a cam that'll provide power through the mid range? A custom built cam is probably a little out of my league cause I don't know enough about them to know what I would like to get made up.

You can swap the EF coil pack to EL dizzy set up, but WAY to much work involved. If your only after the basic cam, no custom computer is nessicary (spelling lol). But compliment the cam with some diff gears and exhaust.

Yep deffinatly! The exhaust is already done and the CAI is on the way. When I come accross a good Diff for a good price I'll definatly be picking it up. I am after a basic cam but one that will give a noticable increase, but like if a basic cam is say $200 and a top of the line cam is $300 then I'd probably prefer to spend an extra hundred rather than go out and get a better one later.

Are there any cheap ECUs that are a worthwhile $$:Features upgrade? Really I only need one to be able to run a top cam and I wont be re-tuning it all the time cause the car will be an everday, family car after all. But I want to do almost everything I can to it bar turbo setup at this stage.

A suscessful N/A set up will not accomidate a high boost set up from a turbo. To save yourself money, its best to decide how far you want to go for power, and decide whether N/A or turbo would be best.

For now, an NA setup is all I'll be able to afford but a turbo setup would be swole. Should I just start planning for a turbo setup? I won't have enough cash for years so it's probably better that I just go with an NA setup.

Is an ECU not worth the $$ for an NA setup?

If you want a good cam for a resonable price talk to joe at Cresent motors, if your going to run a stock head his stage 2 cam will work but if your getting the head worked (ported) then the stage 3 will put a good smile on your face, he will also tell you what is needed to go with the cam(springs & shims).

Dude, dont worry about an ECU swap, at most just get a J3 chip prog'd as a Ticky from a bloke on here.
Especially as youre only going a mild cam.