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| rdiigen |
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I've had the usual noisy lifter for five seconds happening lately which is fine -- five seconds, who cares -- Yesterday I turned it on and bang, TAP TAP TAP, sounded like a trapped miner trying to escape my engine bay. -- Took it for a drive and it did not stop!!!!!
Now I dont get angry much but this is just pissing me off. My old engine went through two sets of lifters in 3 years, now this new engine is only 8 months old and the f**k tappets are tapping again.. -- You just cant drive it, it's embarrassing loud!!! Why do these barstards break (if this is what they are doing??) so frequently, are there any other stronger more resilient brands of lifters???? |
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| low_ryda |
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they are renoun for being noisy but usually pretty reliable, recurrent problems are usually caused by oil issues, either fouling and or lack of oil feed. can have the best lifters in the world but their no good unless you can keep a good clean fresh supply of the correct oil up to them.
use thin oil much ?
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| rdiigen |
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its had the run-in oil (castrol gtx proffessional,,, 15-40 i think) and I changed the oil just last week to castrol edge sport 0-40 fully synth (following recommendations to change to fully synth after x klms). been running fine since this oil change
(ef standard oil is 15-40) |
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| alfy |
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rdiigen wrote: its had the run-in oil (castrol gtx proffessional,,, 15-40 i think) and I changed the oil just last week to castrol edge sport 0-40 fully synth (following recommendations to change to fully synth after x klms). been running fine since this oil change (ef standard oil is 15-40) 0W40 is what i would think to be way too thin... i use 20W50 in my EL, and even when its low on oil theres no tappet noise at all.
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
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| rdiigen |
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have the rocker off now and there was a little up-and-down play on the number 4 rocker arm and when I started it up, there was a whitish(foamy) liquid coming out of the top of that rocker arm (others were oil-black), one or two seconds after that, oil-black then started coming out?
noise still persists heres a short mpg video of the rocker arm noise https://sawltw.blu.livefilestore.com/y1 ... g?download Last edited by rdiigen on Sun Mar 08, 2009 3:41 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| low_ryda |
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could mean that the bakerlite retainer has broken which could lodge somewhere else, causing it to take a bit longer to pump up.
i agree with that oil being too thin.pre vct sohc 6's aren't qohc ferrari motors, they don't really need the expensive cutting edge oil. i run penrite in mine, and use one grade thicker than they sugest coz the motors getting up to 200,000, i have run the recommended oil and takes a while for everything to quiet down from startup and higher level of valvetrain noise. thicker oil fixes this up for me. imho the galleries etc are big enough to handle high flowing thicker oil, and theres no vct cylinders or tiny veins like with vcts. and i find (imho) that thinner oil takes longer to flow around my engine and doesn't hold pressure quite as well as thicker grades. i used 60 grade drag oil in my last motor when it was on it's way out, that even hid the noise my snapped #1 oil ring was making lol only a last resort though.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| wild_ef |
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mate 0w40 is thin for an e series.
in my old ef i used 20w50 or 20w60 and never had any problems
_________________ BA Fairmont Ghia |
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| rdiigen |
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its a newly rebuilt engine.. the factory oil recommends 40w, im using 40w, so why is that too thin?
thicker oils 50 and 60 I thought were for older engine lifes? |
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| rdiigen |
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Wiki extract
There are a number of potential problems with hydraulic lifters. Frequently, the valvetrain will rattle loudly on startup due to oil draining from the lifters when the vehicle is parked. This is not considered significant provided the noise disappears within a couple of minutes, typically it usually only lasts a second or two. A rattle that does not go away can indicate a blocked oil feed or that one or more of the lifters has collapsed due to wear and is no longer opening its valve fully. The affected lifter should be replaced in the latter circumstances. In extremely rare circumstances, a lifter can "pump up" and create negative valve clearance so that its valve cannot close. This is more serious as burnt valves will result. In all cases it is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for oil viscosity and quality. Mine sounds like the second issue: blocked oil feed (unlikely) or lifter has collapsed. Maybe due to willowbank wednesday night, running it hard??? but why wait until saturday to fail?? UGGH |
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| krisisdog |
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rdiigen wrote: its a newly rebuilt engine.. the factory oil recommends 40w, im using 40w, so why is that too thin? thicker oils 50 and 60 I thought were for older engine lifes? You're forgetting about the 15 that comes before the 40! |
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| paulhowes |
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You say you gave it a hard run. Have you actually pulled that pushrod and checked it for straightnes in case it has bent slightly. The only other time I have seen lifters fail from new was when they werent partially filled on install and ran dry until oil pressure pumped them all and it ended up popping circlips.
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| hans hartman |
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rdiigen wrote: its had the run-in oil (castrol gtx proffessional,,, 15-40 i think) and I changed the oil just last week to castrol edge sport 0-40 fully synth (following recommendations to change to fully synth after x klms). been running fine since this oil change (ef standard oil is 15-40) running in oil is usually straight 30 grade and no additives,other wise the rings wont bed in.did any one check the rocker gear,or was it assembled.was it new or second hand?any more on the top end----new head,lifters,cam,rockers or was it secondhand?there are a lot of checks to be made to keep the correct clearances,if its all ok,then oil flow will be ok.wrong oil will wear top end faster.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
whats with all you idiots saying 0w40 is too thin. the recommended oil is 15w40.
the ONLY time 0w40 is thinner is when the oil is cold. when they are both HOT they are pretty much the same, and both of them thinner then the cold 0w40. ffs you people really need to research a little befor posting. I used to use 0w30 in my EF and never had a problem with it. A few of the old members from hear changed from thicker 50 and 60 oil back to 10w40 and 0w40 oils and found they had better oil pressure and less engine noise. But that's what happens when you use quality oil instead of blindly believing marketing hype. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
krisisdog wrote: rdiigen wrote: its a newly rebuilt engine.. the factory oil recommends 40w, im using 40w, so why is that too thin? thicker oils 50 and 60 I thought were for older engine lifes? You're forgetting about the 15 that comes before the 40! that 15w doesn't mean s**t once the oil is hot. the 0w will do a better job on start up and cold run anyway. |
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| krisisdog |
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So remind me again why 15-40 is recommended?
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