Hey Guys.

Just wondering, how bad is the clutch fan in terms of power loss? is it really noticeable converting to EF/EL thermos.

Also how can i tell if the clutch fan is stuck on? and wondering how does it work ? its spinning but not at its full potential I'm guessing? (i did notice in the summer it made a more wooooomm noise)

Thanks.

Grechie

ok how it works: there are coils and stuff in it which act as a heat dependant clutch, i dont know how specifically, but when it heats up (it is connected to water pump) it will grip and allow the fan to spin with the RPM of the engine.

when its stuffed its permanantly "gripping" so its always moving at a speed relative to the engines rpm.


thermos run off electricity so they put a load on the alternator rather than holding the water pump back which in turn holds the engine back. its like running with weights tied around your ankles instead of holding them in your hands i guess.

i found after removing clutch fan that the car seemed like slightly "lighter" in a way as the engine seemed to rev that little bit smoother/free'er kind of like when you let a passenger out but maybe not quite as big a leap in performance. maybe 1-2kw on a dyno on your car but probly 1 kw max on a stock car.

also technically you should get better fuel economy becuase its not on nearly as much and you get to operating temp much quicker. if you find some cheap ish thermos and a davies craig switch and a relay i reckon you should do it! the mechanical side of changing them is really easy the only tricky part is the wiring but im sure it would have been easier if i had instructions (2nd hand relay and thermatic switch lol)

my car had no power gains when i took off my clutch fan, but it always has had no power.
Thermos have more gains in their cooling ability, not power gains. But because they wont be running when your accelerating. they wont take the small amount of power the clutch fan might


If the clutch fan is stuck on, you wont be able to spin it with your hand (WHEN THE ENGINE IS OFF) haha

If it is working correctly, it will spin about 1/2 - 3/4 turn from a spin with your hand.

If it just free spins the clutch is stuffed and it isnt coming on at all...

Thats generally how you can tell.

Go the EF thermos tho theyre killer.. can reduce my car from middle of the temp gauge to running cold in about 2 minutes in traffic.

I will also be doing this in about 3 weeks and hopefully post a guide for fordmods.


the only reason im doing it is because of the noise the clutch fan makes, not performance..


If you do the mod yourself (half a days work if u have the parts) it should set u back about 120 all up.

thanks guys

i span my clutch fan and it spins but then stops so i think its fine...

i want to go thermos for that little extra punch down the 1/4 thats all if that.

send madmatt a PM. He got some interesting results by going to the thermo's.

I would like some info on converting too... soon as I know i can do it myself Ill buy some thermos...

Anyone got a guide?
Ill need just a relay etc hey?

watch this space ghost, ill post a guide after ive done mine, basically all u need is some 15-30amp wire, 3 30amp relays (preferably with a fuse built in), the thermo fans, a thermatic switch which fits into the thermostat housing ($35 at supercheap), and a switch..

Excellent.. Ill follow the thread.. Cheers Johnno

why do you need 3 30 amp relays...

i used two 30 amp relays, separate fuse holders, 30 amp fuses, amp power wire, a few switches and led's

spent 20 bucks at jaycar

i have a davies craig thermatic switch, but they leak when you put the copper bit into the radiator hose, so im waiting for some spare time to make something up so it wont leak

thermos are money well spent if you ask me

man just glue the probe to the top of the radiator and adjust temp accordingly lol. thats what ive done

if u get the proper thermatic switch u can connect it to the thermostat housing..


3 relays, 1 for each fan and and 1 to turn on when A/C is turned on

lol on the outside of the radiator?



jjohhnno-

ive just got a standard davies craig thermo switch with a copper probe on it..

and ohh i forgot bout the ac, mine doesnt work so i didnt even think bout it my bad

whats the problem with that? it still gets a heat signal yes?