|
| smoke_ |
|
|||
|
u sure the fans are on high-speed when it gets hot, not just low speed? are both working?
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| dsheps83 |
|
|||
|
doing 110 down the road the fans are gonna be doing stuff all
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| smoke_ |
|
|||
|
on the highway yes, but once he re-starts it they should be going fast if the ecu senses high coolant temp.
when you switch a car off it actually gets a bit hotter before it cools down, but not to the extent you're describing.
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| kaiden351 |
|
||
|
Mechan1k wrote: cjh wrote: You can not cook an AU. The sensor is at the back of the head. They are approx $60 to $70. Anyway, the AU cannot cook because the ECU picks up the temp from that sensor and starts to cut back the spark, but not the fuel, on the cyl's, in a random like effect, so as not to foul the s/plugs. So you will notice the drop in performance when this happens. If the temp is up, it should be checked with an Infra red ray temp gun to confirm whats going on. The AU's were notorious for the Instrument clusters to stuff up. Replace many under warranty. This shouldn't be discounted either. Spark retardation isn't used on the EGAS models. I am still getting overheating issues in the ute ... and have tested with an IR Ray temp gun ... when hot it is reading 118 deg C at the back of the head. The temp rise is consistent with the readings through the Scantool as well. I am still stumped with it ... as I have a new radiator ... hoses .. thermostat ... water pump ... now has a low km engine it ... new thermofans as well. Had the new radiator flushed as well ... and the entire cooling system has been flushed as well. No loss of coolant either. It is fine cruising along ... but once on a decent incline and loading up the auto ... it starts heating up ... even moreso with AC on. Also has a brand new auto in it ... and I am running a large auto trans cooler as well. I am buggered if i know what is causing it ... bring on winter I say ... then i won't have the problem anymore. Also if it really is overheating (and you have an auto) ... the auto will go into limp home mode when it gets too warm (ie: lock in 3rd gear). what if you where to take thermostat out just to see what it does ...and if it is a faulty thermostat then it will stop the over heating .. it may help it may not .. unless you have tried it .. not saying keep it out just saying to take it out for a day or even a couple of hours just to see what it does ..
_________________ 93 EB 4 Speed auto , 2 1/2 sports from cat back , pod filter , LSD , super low suspenstion , mok tickford rims 15" , 7 colour changing led parker lights , led no plate lights and still want more .. allooootttttttttttt more ..
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Mechan1k |
|
||
|
kaiden351 wrote: Mechan1k wrote: cjh wrote: You can not cook an AU. The sensor is at the back of the head. They are approx $60 to $70. Anyway, the AU cannot cook because the ECU picks up the temp from that sensor and starts to cut back the spark, but not the fuel, on the cyl's, in a random like effect, so as not to foul the s/plugs. So you will notice the drop in performance when this happens. If the temp is up, it should be checked with an Infra red ray temp gun to confirm whats going on. The AU's were notorious for the Instrument clusters to stuff up. Replace many under warranty. This shouldn't be discounted either. Spark retardation isn't used on the EGAS models. I am still getting overheating issues in the ute ... and have tested with an IR Ray temp gun ... when hot it is reading 118 deg C at the back of the head. The temp rise is consistent with the readings through the Scantool as well. I am still stumped with it ... as I have a new radiator ... hoses .. thermostat ... water pump ... now has a low km engine it ... new thermofans as well. Had the new radiator flushed as well ... and the entire cooling system has been flushed as well. No loss of coolant either. It is fine cruising along ... but once on a decent incline and loading up the auto ... it starts heating up ... even moreso with AC on. Also has a brand new auto in it ... and I am running a large auto trans cooler as well. I am buggered if i know what is causing it ... bring on winter I say ... then i won't have the problem anymore. Also if it really is overheating (and you have an auto) ... the auto will go into limp home mode when it gets too warm (ie: lock in 3rd gear). what if you where to take thermostat out just to see what it does ...and if it is a faulty thermostat then it will stop the over heating .. it may help it may not .. unless you have tried it .. not saying keep it out just saying to take it out for a day or even a couple of hours just to see what it does .. I have tried it with a new Ford thermostat ... and I have tested with an old thermostat that has been gutted ... the only difference was the gutted thermostat made the car take longer to warm up ... that's all. Both still overheated under load eventually. Put in another brand new thermostat last week ... and still getting the same thing (even after flushing the system and refilling and letting air out of the system). I am still stumped.
_________________ 04 Territory TX AWD - Winter White - optioned up |
||
| Top | |
||
| Mechan1k |
|
||
|
Even though the radiator is new ... I thik i might upgrade to a better radiator ... might just have to bite the bullet and do it.
Knowing my luck there'll still be an issue. Weird thing is that it is only overheating on the rear cylinder near the cylinder head temp sensor. Might replace this first and test again. It'll be a case of trial and error till i get it sorted.
_________________ 04 Territory TX AWD - Winter White - optioned up |
||
| Top | |
||
| kaiden351 |
|
||
|
Mechan1k wrote: kaiden351 wrote: Mechan1k wrote: cjh wrote: You can not cook an AU. The sensor is at the back of the head. They are approx $60 to $70. Anyway, the AU cannot cook because the ECU picks up the temp from that sensor and starts to cut back the spark, but not the fuel, on the cyl's, in a random like effect, so as not to foul the s/plugs. So you will notice the drop in performance when this happens. If the temp is up, it should be checked with an Infra red ray temp gun to confirm whats going on. The AU's were notorious for the Instrument clusters to stuff up. Replace many under warranty. This shouldn't be discounted either. Spark retardation isn't used on the EGAS models. I am still getting overheating issues in the ute ... and have tested with an IR Ray temp gun ... when hot it is reading 118 deg C at the back of the head. The temp rise is consistent with the readings through the Scantool as well. I am still stumped with it ... as I have a new radiator ... hoses .. thermostat ... water pump ... now has a low km engine it ... new thermofans as well. Had the new radiator flushed as well ... and the entire cooling system has been flushed as well. No loss of coolant either. It is fine cruising along ... but once on a decent incline and loading up the auto ... it starts heating up ... even moreso with AC on. Also has a brand new auto in it ... and I am running a large auto trans cooler as well. I am buggered if i know what is causing it ... bring on winter I say ... then i won't have the problem anymore. Also if it really is overheating (and you have an auto) ... the auto will go into limp home mode when it gets too warm (ie: lock in 3rd gear). what if you where to take thermostat out just to see what it does ...and if it is a faulty thermostat then it will stop the over heating .. it may help it may not .. unless you have tried it .. not saying keep it out just saying to take it out for a day or even a couple of hours just to see what it does .. I have tried it with a new Ford thermostat ... and I have tested with an old thermostat that has been gutted ... the only difference was the gutted thermostat made the car take longer to warm up ... that's all. Both still overheated under load eventually. Put in another brand new thermostat last week ... and still getting the same thing (even after flushing the system and refilling and letting air out of the system). I am still stumped. stumped .. man ... what a ute ... u say that you have a big oil cooler .. maybe remove it or mount is somewhere else or get a smaller 1... if its in front of the radiator .. restricting air flow will cause that .. but only on inclines as the motor is working harder but the air is being restricted ... but it sounds like it could be anything with what you have done to the car
_________________ 93 EB 4 Speed auto , 2 1/2 sports from cat back , pod filter , LSD , super low suspenstion , mok tickford rims 15" , 7 colour changing led parker lights , led no plate lights and still want more .. allooootttttttttttt more ..
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Mechan1k |
|
||
|
I am thinking of moving the trans cooler to the middle up the top behind the grille ... at the moment it is near the bottom driver's side (and AFAIK that's the coolant return back to the engine after it has been through the radiator ... I suspect the trans cooler might be heating it up too much under load).
It will be my next plan of attack ... as the current setup is mounted up against the A/C Condensor (and it really starts heating up the coolant when the A/c IS ON). If I move it to the centre near the top ... I will mount it further forward and leave a gap between it and the condensor and see how that runs. I am running the PWR V8 trans cooler as well ... can't remember the dimensions ... but it is a decent size.
_________________ 04 Territory TX AWD - Winter White - optioned up |
||
| Top | |
||
| kaiden351 |
|
||
|
Mechan1k wrote: kaiden351 wrote: Mechan1k wrote: cjh wrote: You can not cook an AU. The sensor is at the back of the head. They are approx $60 to $70. Anyway, the AU cannot cook because the ECU picks up the temp from that sensor and starts to cut back the spark, but not the fuel, on the cyl's, in a random like effect, so as not to foul the s/plugs. So you will notice the drop in performance when this happens. If the temp is up, it should be checked with an Infra red ray temp gun to confirm whats going on. The AU's were notorious for the Instrument clusters to stuff up. Replace many under warranty. This shouldn't be discounted either. Spark retardation isn't used on the EGAS models. I am still getting overheating issues in the ute ... and have tested with an IR Ray temp gun ... when hot it is reading 118 deg C at the back of the head. The temp rise is consistent with the readings through the Scantool as well. I am still stumped with it ... as I have a new radiator ... hoses .. thermostat ... water pump ... now has a low km engine it ... new thermofans as well. Had the new radiator flushed as well ... and the entire cooling system has been flushed as well. No loss of coolant either. It is fine cruising along ... but once on a decent incline and loading up the auto ... it starts heating up ... even moreso with AC on. Also has a brand new auto in it ... and I am running a large auto trans cooler as well. I am buggered if i know what is causing it ... bring on winter I say ... then i won't have the problem anymore. Also if it really is overheating (and you have an auto) ... the auto will go into limp home mode when it gets too warm (ie: lock in 3rd gear). what if you where to take thermostat out just to see what it does ...and if it is a faulty thermostat then it will stop the over heating .. it may help it may not .. unless you have tried it .. not saying keep it out just saying to take it out for a day or even a couple of hours just to see what it does .. I have tried it with a new Ford thermostat ... and I have tested with an old thermostat that has been gutted ... the only difference was the gutted thermostat made the car take longer to warm up ... that's all. Both still overheated under load eventually. Put in another brand new thermostat last week ... and still getting the same thing (even after flushing the system and refilling and letting air out of the system). I am still stumped. gees mate ... what about the trans cooler ... if that is restricting the air flow that can cause overheating cause the motor is working harder but not get enought air to keep it cool .. something to keep in the back of ya mind mate
_________________ 93 EB 4 Speed auto , 2 1/2 sports from cat back , pod filter , LSD , super low suspenstion , mok tickford rims 15" , 7 colour changing led parker lights , led no plate lights and still want more .. allooootttttttttttt more ..
|
||
| Top | |
||
| xpression |
|
|||
|
have u checked things like the coilpack and ran a self test on the ecu. if the spark is not doing what it should be doing it can on rare occurances cause the car to overheat
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Mechan1k |
|
||
|
Just replaced the coilpack as I was getting backfiring issues (EGAS) ... so has a new coilpack in it. Also had new leads and plugs in it.
Also had a scantool plugged in and did the complete start-up to warm test ... and on road testing as well ... no codes came up at all.
_________________ 04 Territory TX AWD - Winter White - optioned up |
||
| Top | |
||
| green machine |
|
|||
|
hey Mechan1k! I've been having minor issues aswell,pulled the whole cooling system down,had the radiator flushed,pulled the water pump off was good put back on,flushed the block out,checked the temp sensor.still have no idea what it could be?also checked the thremos! to me it fills like a air flow problem as it heats up a little in traffic at stand still.I've also upgraded my trans cooler and think it might be the location of it! bottom driver's side of condensor.
_________________ custom airbox,custom intake |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| green machine |
|
|||
|
oops! double post sorry!
_________________ custom airbox,custom intake |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Mechan1k |
|
||
|
See ... that's where my transcooler is (I fitted it in winter hence I didn't notice overheating issues till Summer).
Now the return coolant back to the engine (where it is meant to be cold/cool) is down where I have the transcooler. There is a replacement cooler the taxis use ... it's a long thin one that goes the entire width of the condensor near the top (and some near the bottom). I will try and relocate the cooler first ... and I am going to bypass the radiator as well and just run transcooler for the auto only ... taking some heat out of the radiator as well.
_________________ 04 Territory TX AWD - Winter White - optioned up |
||
| Top | |
||
| green machine |
|
|||
|
I've still got my original cooler,might try and put it back on and see what it does! if it works I will know it's the new cooler's location.
_________________ custom airbox,custom intake |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 80 guests |
12.06@120MPH
