OK... So my ED has developed a bottom end knock and is burning through 5lts or oil a week
and the head gasket is pissing out, So im looking at putting an AU motor in my beast.
Before you tell me to use the search button, i have (PS is sucks) and im wanting to know
some info to some questions i cant find the answers to and double check some facts.


So ill just list my questions.

How does it work with the dizzy set up? im taking the shaft of the module that is in the hole
where my dizzy is (please also what module?) and having it put on my ED dizzy. correct?

What about the the alternator? from what i gather you have to mod the bracket to fit en EF/EL
alternator. as long as it a Mitsubishi brand why cant i just use an AU alt? (not having to mod anything) or does there become a problem with the AU alt overcharging?

The only part of the Au motor i plan to use (at this stage) is the block, head ect. not the manifold.
So in theory i can just drop this in and not have to worry about the engine loom and electrical probs
(plug and play so to speak)

Now as im not use the BBM the top rad hose runs right through the path of the snorkel for
the ED airbox. Can i bolt the lower section of an ED thermostat housing to the AU head so i can use
the ED Rad set up?

And with the auto. will an AU bell housing just bolt right up to my ED auto? (id rather have all the bolts
holding it to the motor)

Other wise. Motor drops right in using the ED enging mounts (NO modding?)

have to use 12mm Spacers to bolt up an EF/EL AC Comp. And if im using the single Au belt set up No grinding
the timing case cover to fit idler?

And i have to grind the rear of the sump so it will clear the K-frame.

Is there any other grinding or welding im not aware of? any facts iv missed?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

You should only need to swap over the gear from the module out of the AU on to your dizzy.



You should be able to adapt the AU alt plug to the ED wiring with no issues.



Yes this should be ok if you do the below bit.



You actually NEED to use the ED lower thermostat housing as it has extra sensors etc in it to match up with your ED wiring. The AU has the temp sensor in the back of the head. You can leave it unattached. You can still use the the EF/EL/AU top radiator hose and thermostat housing if you source an XH intake snorkle. If not use the ED one.

Yes it will, but is not really necessary.



Yes the ED engine mounts bolt up to the AU block.



Yes, the spacers are to push the a/c pump out far enough to clear the tensioner. The other option is to source an XH Ute tensioner as it is designed to work with the log manifold.



Incorrect. You need to grind the front of the sump to clear the K Frame.



You will need to run thermo fans for this conversion. There is no facility to use the standard ED Fan on the AU.

I hope that helps some.

Cheers
BenJ

you could source a new ED water pump, and bolt your fan to it, instead of converting to thermo fans

Hey man, not exactly any input to your questions buy I was gonna say you should take a billion photos of everything as you do the job, I'm going to be doing similar soon, AU into my fairlane, so any hints and tips you discover would help me and probably a heap of other people later too.
Wires needin cutting or how you did the sump front clearance.

Plus pics always earn you "fordmods rep" lol.

Troyman had a doco on doing this in his old Gold EA.

If you do a search you should be able to find it.

He did use a BBM though, but the rest is there.

Cheers
BenJ

Re A/c spacers, i've just used the std EF/EL spacers when bolting A/c onto AU block. no issues

Albino, that works fine if using the BBM manifold, but it is an issue when using the log manifold. What manifold did you use?

Cheers
BenJ

Last edited by BenJ on Fri Sep 24, 2010 1:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Good one Ben, I had BBM for both, cheers

I'll have a search or that one, thanks Ben.

Yeah i do plan to take a heap of pics.



yes i have know about that one for a while. great guide but there was some thing in it i didnt not understand and some info was not there. and a lack of pics (cos i like lots of colorful pics) with extra pics it helps you to under stand what your reading, give you a better idea. but other then that a great doco.



yeah i know i had to run thermo fans. just forgot to mention lol. you know if BA fans would work at all? cos i had a set i got for free sitting in my garage.

Also speaking of troymans doco.... the first pic... what the f**k is that "frame" that has been welded next to the balancer?

Other then that. tanks BenJ, Albino, macxr8 and Lowlane7. much appreciated

I think that pic is showing the modification done to the k frame

sump mod

You either need to mod the sump or mod the K frame.

It is much easier to use the AU alternator than using a EF/EL alternator, the only thing you wil need to do if using a seriesI alternator is to change the plug, AU series II & III are the Mitsubishi Type and are the same as BA/BF.

As the guys have said you just need to bolt the Thermostat housing up as you wil need the sensors mounted in it.

As for the dizzy, the unit in the "Dizzy" hole is only a dummy as the AU cam sensor is mounted in the timing case. Remove the dummy sensor and remove the gear from the shaft, then remove the gear from your dizzy and fit the AU gear to your Dizzy, that way the gears are matching.

Recommend that you use the serpentine belt setup as per the EF/EL/AU. It is a much better system and there will be no power drain on your engine as with the clutch fan. If you have the complete AU engine you will have everything that you need.


Have done a couple of these and in the process of another at the moment but going into an EF. If you need anything else just PM.

Hey guys I have a question and would appreciate any help. My hubby has bought an ED which needs the head done so he is thinking of putting in an AU engine instead of redoing the head. Now he has done research and has found that some people say to shave the sump to make it fit and some say to cut the K frame. Is it LEGAL and SAFE to cut the K frame or would you just shave the sump?
My thought is just shave the sump rather than going and cutting thing etc

You can do either.
As long as you weld it good, make it neat, and do a decent job, the welding is actually an easier cheaper option, need a piece of 25mm square and a welder,
To do the sump chop you need the workshop and an alloy welder, which is the main cost.
Keep an eye out on gumtree, sometimes a engine with pre cut sump comes up.
HAve a search here, there are threads on both the K frame chop and the sump chop.