thanks bro got it running good, just messing with vacuum lines torque converter bolted up and see if this puppy moves

Nice, nothing better than the sound of the 4.0 returning back to life,

As for the loom change, check with TimmyA on doing that, not my scene, I would just use the EL Loom and ECU, J3 it as needed. Do the AU loom swap if you want, your call.

Fitting of the motor, follow this,

Things required to fit AU engine to EF/EL (updated 15/02/14)

1) Sump needs to be modified to fit K-Frame, you can cut and weld the K-Frame but that is up to you, will need engineering after being cut. You cannot use an EF/EL sump as the sump is totally different to AU. There is are cases of the E series sump being used but filler plates or large quantities of sealant wre used, not recommended. Also you loose the advantage of the cross bolting of the AU sump when using the E series sump, one of the major strength points of using the AU Block.

2) You need to use AU/BF alternator or you will need to modify the block and drill and tap mount points to mount the EF/EL alternator.
If you use an AU I alternator you will need to change the plug for the alternator to one from an AUI as these are different from the Mitsubishi alternators.
Note: The AUII & III and BA alternators have the same plug as EF/EL.

3) Remove the Oil Drive Block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issue’s, there have been issues with dizzy’s failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be required to use the existing mount point, extra notch in the clamp plate or grind the tab off the Cam sensor.
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

4) You will need to use an EF/EL thermostat housing as these have your temp sensor and AU housings do not. You could use the EB type if you wish as this has an extra fitting for an additional sensor is required at a later date.

5) You will need to use the EF/EL BBM as the upper section is different to the AU. Also use the EF/EL throttle body as some of the plugs are different to the AU.

6) Use the EF/EL wiring loom.

7) You will need to tap the block on an AUII/III Block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. AUI is already tapped with the correct thread for the EF/EL Knock Sensor. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the plug.

8) a) You will need to cut the EF/EL AC pump mount spacers down to 30mm to suit the AU block as well as shortening the bolts by 10mmm if using the AU alternator to suit the standard serpentine belt.
b) If using the EF/EL alternator with modified mounts you will not need to cut down the mounts and be able to use the standard Serpentine belt.
c) Alternatively you can use the AU alternator , standard AC spacers and a Serpentine belt from an XH (Slightly longer).

9) Use the EF/EL power steering pump. This is a direct bolt up. The AU pump hose connection is different to the EF/EL.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug) You can use an AUII/III coil but the plug with need to be changed as well as different leads.

12) You can use the AU head or fit you EF/EL head, that is up to you.

As for turbo fitting, talk with people like Troyman and others. Fitting a Turbo to an AU engine is really no different to an E series engine. I am more PD Supercharger aligned.

By the way you don't modify the K Frame.

Bumpage...

doing this the other way EL into AU? Much different to the reverse of the above post?
I have a really good low K EL Tickford along with its auto I wouldnt mind putting into my AU2 XLS ute (EL hit a skippy). The EL engine is very clean, never thrashed.

Or am I better off getting an AU HP motor.