LOL Selling a fords like flushing a turd. It's gotta be done or it's gonna stink up the lounge was quoted $1650Aus for a low k head to sump block, from a large wreckers. My bro reckons, as usual reconing we've done, if major parts are fine, just ring's bearings and that just to get another quiet 300k/km's, while doing required machining and Sh*te he stated $4-6hundred, another place is selling motor $650 not vct, so I guess it's a suck it and see, and pray to the almighty blue eagle. Will have a good read of that thread, as my basic experience has been in Torana i6 rofl, easy as. Thanks again, you'd think ford would just have a data base, with all required info, Because they get thousands of free man hours, of data on everyone's own doings as well as $$$$ and maybe ford would be something i could say oh i dont hear any squealing, my tranny isn't playing up and the rest. peace !!

Nah, I sold the pistons and rings, I still have the car. Benefits of getting them at cost meant I was actually up $50 too

$1650 is very rich for second hand, you would want very low kms and a decent warranty. I got 110xxxkm engine with 3 months for $400 for my old car. It is second hand gear though, so if the OP goes this way definitely caveat emptor.

If you can justify it, rebuild, but if you aren't doing it for the performance side really worth weighing up the condition of the rest of your car/how long you intend to keep it.

Agree with ebxr82nv. At 134,000 kms, the bottom end probably has at least another 100,000-150,000 in it. No point spending money on it.

Big snorkel, performance air filter, 3" intake with BA tube, shave the head, maybe a multi-angle valve job, good headers, 2.5" mandrel-bent exhaust, maybe a hi-flow cat, then a j3 chip or flash tune and some dyno time, and you will have most of the gains available without touching the cam. If you are happy to run 95 or 98 octane all the time, make sure you have a tankful when getting a dyno-tune - more octane allows more extra ignition advance which will make a noticeable performance difference.

Beyond that? The head already has decent size valves and flows well, but a port job should make some gains especially at top end. But pricey. A larger throttle body will give you more power above about 5000rpm. 3-inch exhaust will also help top-end.

A high-stall torque convertor (maybe 2500-2700 rpm) really helps the BTR auto jump off the line, with its tall first gear. You can get the factory convertor modified for higher stall for not much money. I had mine done (in my EF) and ended up at 2900rpm, which is a bit more slip than I wanted, but is working great with my warmer cam. If you are doing any drag racing, you will need to modify the torque convertor stall RPM when you get the ECU tuned, otherwise the trans will go into limp mode every time you try to stall it against the brakes.