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| racer |
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I am going to turbo my engine in the near future. My engine is the EL distributor engine.
I like to know if the Barra forged pistons & Barra H beam rods will fit into my engine. I know machining will be required on my crank. What i'm thinking of doing is using the ACL 6MKRY9710 forged barra pistons & a set of H beam barra length rods. I still would like to use my crank & block. I also would like to know about a main stud girdle if the above is possible. Any info about this combo will be greatly appreciated.
_________________ FORD EL 4.0L. Crow cam, T.I Performance J3 Chip, Vernier cam gear, SPR ported head, 68mm TB, AU head gasket + ARP studs, AU injectors, Pacey 4480, High flow cat, Shift kit, Stallie, 3:73 TrueTrac. |
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| cjh |
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Yep....I'm using Barra LPG pistons, and AUII rods, on an EL crank and block.
But the girdle (AU) will fit with a little modding to the sump. You need the AU main cap bolts, coz they are longer.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| racer |
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Are the AU11 rods the same length as the barra ones ?
_________________ FORD EL 4.0L. Crow cam, T.I Performance J3 Chip, Vernier cam gear, SPR ported head, 68mm TB, AU head gasket + ARP studs, AU injectors, Pacey 4480, High flow cat, Shift kit, Stallie, 3:73 TrueTrac. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
all AU rods are 6.060 same as BA - FG rods.
Your crank will not need special machining to make them fit, the big ends are an exact fit. The only trouble you'll have is the the Barra pistons don't have a valve relief to suit the 2valve heads. It would also be far easier for you to just order a piston/rod package from Spool or Atomic. |
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| needfordspeed |
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So you could fit sayyyy F6 rods and XR6T pistons with valve relief cut in a EL block using the existing crank and have a fair decent bottom end for cheap?
_________________ 1988 EA S-Pack|MPI|LSD|AIT turbo manifold|Garrett GT3540|3" Exhaust turbo back|Resprayed|microtech LT8s|60lb Injectors|Bosch 044 with surge tank|3000 RPM stall|Ported AU head|Wade turbo cam|Crow double valve springs|1.3mm MLS headgasket|C4 conversion|Built bottom end|10.6@125MPHi |
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| MICKYYYY |
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tickford_6 is totally right and spend the extra dosh as it isent much to go decent gear
_________________ Wanted Either Capri/Cortina/XY/XW/XR/XT with tough V8 stroker engine, auto, 9inch, upgraded brakes etc[/SIZE][/size][/color] |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
{USERNAME} wrote: So you could fit sayyyy F6 rods and XR6T pistons with valve relief cut in a EL block using the existing crank and have a fair decent bottom end for cheap? For the cash you'd spend on new F6 rods and forged pistons, you'd be better of having custom pistons made to suit the EL rods, they are stronger anyway. OR wait a few months until SPOOL release the EL forged pistons that they have in the works. The only reason people are using the BA rods in early engines is because there are a number of pistons to choose from that fit. If good forged pistons were easy to get for the EL engine most people would bother changing rods. If you really want a strong bottom end, buy a piston and rod package from Atomic or Spool. |
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| cjh |
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XR6T rods have a smaller gudgeon pin size than the non-turbo pistons.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| racer |
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I would rather go for a steel H beam rod. The longer rod that the AU-FG have got give a better rod ratio than the smaller EF-EL rods. Longer rods has less stress on the crank & bores.
Thanks for all your input guys it has been a huge help in my decision.  I am going to go for a Atom or Spool steel rod (AU-BF) & a forged piston to suit turbo application. I did see a main girdle in Atoms website to suit EF-EL blocks (10mm). I will also go for a High Energy super pan. All this is bringing back memories when i built my XW circuit racer with 600hp's on an engine dyno running avgas.
_________________ FORD EL 4.0L. Crow cam, T.I Performance J3 Chip, Vernier cam gear, SPR ported head, 68mm TB, AU head gasket + ARP studs, AU injectors, Pacey 4480, High flow cat, Shift kit, Stallie, 3:73 TrueTrac. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
4.5mm in rod length, from 1.504 to 1.55 rod ratio wont make that much difference
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| MICKYYYY |
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I think u should start with an AU engine and get all bits to suit as AU engine are better than previous
_________________ Wanted Either Capri/Cortina/XY/XW/XR/XT with tough V8 stroker engine, auto, 9inch, upgraded brakes etc[/SIZE][/size][/color] |
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| racer |
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Are you for real tickford_6.
4.5mm is a massive differance & will make a massive differance in the rod ratio. I have built & know alot about combo,s for cleveland engines. One example: std cleveland rod length 5.778" high performance people put 6" chev rods to improve rod ratio & a smaller 2.1" big end (Chev size) for less rpm on the big end. A 0.222" differance in length. You do your maths less than a 1mm. Just to add a longer rod will stay at TDC & BDC longer which means more cylinder pressure & better burn. I had 6" steel Childs & Abbot rods in my cleveland. What i've learnt is when it comes to engine & cylinder clearances a hair clearance will make a differance.
_________________ FORD EL 4.0L. Crow cam, T.I Performance J3 Chip, Vernier cam gear, SPR ported head, 68mm TB, AU head gasket + ARP studs, AU injectors, Pacey 4480, High flow cat, Shift kit, Stallie, 3:73 TrueTrac. |
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| racer |
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I also forgot to say longer rod less piston speed.
_________________ FORD EL 4.0L. Crow cam, T.I Performance J3 Chip, Vernier cam gear, SPR ported head, 68mm TB, AU head gasket + ARP studs, AU injectors, Pacey 4480, High flow cat, Shift kit, Stallie, 3:73 TrueTrac. |
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| skidder |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Are you for real tickford_6. 4.5mm is a massive differance & will make a massive differance in the rod ratio. I have built & know alot about combo,s for cleveland engines. One example: std cleveland rod length 5.778" high performance people put 6" chev rods to improve rod ratio & a smaller 2.1" big end (Chev size) for less rpm on the big end. A 0.222" differance in length. You do your maths less than a 1mm. Just to add a longer rod will stay at TDC & BDC longer which means more cylinder pressure & better burn. I had 6" steel Childs & Abbot rods in my cleveland. What i've learnt is when it comes to engine & cylinder clearances a hair clearance will make a differance. I don't disagree with your theory (except for the extent), but 0.222" is around 5.6mm. If you're buying the gear new though I don't see why you wouldn't go for a longer rod where possible.
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| sooty72 |
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Just FYI, but did you all know that Scat make a conrod for the Barra? 4340 H-Beam rod, 6.059" long, suits 0.867" pin. Retail for approx $700 a set. Very good quality rods, and very well priced, when compared to spool rods.
PM me if anyone is SERIOUS about wanting this stuff, I may be able to do a bit better price for FM members.....
_________________ Yes, I own a Ute. No, I won't help you move! |
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