|
| ebmonty92 |
|
||
|
hey guys,
have to pull the head off my ebII because its slightly leaking oil around cylinder 1 and 6. While my head is off i may aswell do some work to it, what are the basic head mods and what power would i be looking at them from it?? Im thinking of getting 25-30 thou shaved off but wondering if that will be ok with an au head gasket? and also if au head bolts will suit my car? Also wondering what else can be done to the head? I would like to try and get around 130rwkw's to start off with, this is with a 1636 cam or something like that and full exhaust system. also ordered a histall, cant wait to get it all done!!! thanks heaps guys!! |
||
| Top | |
||
| fiend |
|
|||
|
Just shaved about that much off my head and bolted it down with an AU multilayer steel gasket and AU yield to torque bolts, so hope like hell it's okay!!!
Also had a good go at rounding off some corners in the head and removing some lips that are on the combustion side of the head. Round and smooth the ridge between ports and the lip that is left quite sharp by the re-machining of the head. A half decent thing to do (which I didn't) is to taper the valve guides too.... Ho hum. Possibly I should have done that whilst the head was off and available, but since this is the first time I've ever put a head on I just couldn't contain my enthusiasm any longer.... Good luck with it dude... Hope some other people who have actually done this sort of thing before can be bothered leaving their ideas what they'd do in the area of "mild head work"... For me, with limited tools, budget and knowledge, cleaning up and rounding off some corners to provide a little better airflow and shaving the head was about the limit. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ebmonty92 |
|
||
|
thanks heaps man some good ideas there!
yes this is my first time too and i really have no idea what to ask for but hoping it all works out fine, looking at pulling my head off next week or the week after so pretty keen to get it all done soon just really dont wanna raise the compression too much as some nasty things could start happening but i guess ill just have to see how i go! |
||
| Top | |
||
| KWIKXR |
|
|||
|
If the head hasnt been machined before, you're off to a good start
 Id probably get around 20-25 thou off the head, au head gasket with au headbolts.. Wouldnt take too much off the head though just incase something goes pear shaped, car overheats or something warps the head and the head might need to be machined again.. Not that likely to happen but its good to be safe  . Would probably pay to run the car on 95/98RON after that tooAs fiend said if you're good with a dremel or similar and have a steady hand and got time, you can have a go at de-burring the ports on both sides. I also did this while my head was off, didnt take long to do, all i did was smooth them out and left it as is, probably made stuff all of a difference but it'll flow a little better. I reckon 130rwkw with a 1636 and full exhaust with bumped up comp on a fairly healthy engine would be achievable. Maybe open up the air intake a bit to help too (XH snorkel, secondary intake into the airbox etc). |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| krisisdog |
|
|||
|
May as well get a 1673 if you're getting a hi stall.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ebmonty92 |
|
||
|
KWIKXR wrote: If the head hasnt been machined before, you're off to a good start Id probably get around 20-25 thou off the head, au head gasket with au headbolts.. Wouldnt take too much off the head though just incase something goes pear shaped, car overheats or something warps the head and the head might need to be machined again.. Not that likely to happen but its good to be safe . Would probably pay to run the car on 95/98RON after that tooAs fiend said if you're good with a dremel or similar and have a steady hand and got time, you can have a go at de-burring the ports on both sides. I also did this while my head was off, didnt take long to do, all i did was smooth them out and left it as is, probably made stuff all of a difference but it'll flow a little better. I reckon 130rwkw with a 1636 and full exhaust with bumped up comp on a fairly healthy engine would be achievable. Maybe open up the air intake a bit to help too (XH snorkel, secondary intake into the airbox etc). sweet sounds like the go, yeah atm ive got a ea mpi intake piping with a pod on the end lol so that should make it breathe a bit easier, how bout valves and valve springs, anything i should do there?? or just leave them as is..considering my budget lol |
||
| Top | |
||
| ebmonty92 |
|
||
|
krisisdog wrote: May as well get a 1673 if you're getting a hi stall. what's the power difference? |
||
| Top | |
||
| krisisdog |
|
|||
|
meh not a lot, but its the next cam up. Few cars have 140rwkw with this cam though.
Grechies EA makes like 160+rwkw's with it. Its recommended for a manual or stalled auto, but I cant see why a stock auto wouldnt be able to cope with one. I've got it, and its definitely a fair whack better than a stocker, but still idles fine. Combined with the J3, I rekon I'd be hovering around 140rwkw through the manual. Remember you'll be down a few rwkw thru an auto anyway, then a few more with your hi stall. Have you considered shorter diff gears? 3.7s/.9s or 4.11s? Car would be quicker with 4.11s than a manual with stock gears and 10rwkw extra. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ebmonty92 |
|
||
|
krisisdog wrote: meh not a lot, but its the next cam up. Few cars have 140rwkw with this cam though. Grechies EA makes like 160+rwkw's with it. Its recommended for a manual or stalled auto, but I cant see why a stock auto wouldnt be able to cope with one. I've got it, and its definitely a fair whack better than a stocker, but still idles fine. Combined with the J3, I rekon I'd be hovering around 140rwkw through the manual. Remember you'll be down a few rwkw thru an auto anyway, then a few more with your hi stall. Have you considered shorter diff gears? 3.7s/.9s or 4.11s? Car would be quicker with 4.11s than a manual with stock gears and 10rwkw extra. Oh really? i had no idea you actually lose power through a Hi-stall! and yes i have considered 3.7 diff gears but have no idea how to fit them and as i am an apprentice mechanic i cant afford to get a mechanic to iinstall them as im guessing it would be rather expensive?? |
||
| Top | |
||
| krisisdog |
|
|||
|
Coupla hundred to install, new gears are like $100 from ebay.
If your an apprentice mech you should be able to do it at work yeh? How bigs the stally? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fiftyone |
|
|||
|
isnt the best combo au gasket with E series bolts? i could have sworn that the AU ones snapped or something
_________________ ** For Sale ** http://www.fordmods.com/ford-parts-for-sale-f17/assorted-e-series-parts-t124697.html |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ebmonty92 |
|
||
|
krisisdog wrote: Coupla hundred to install, new gears are like $100 from ebay. If your an apprentice mech you should be able to do it at work yeh? How bigs the stally? Apprentice motorbike mechanic, my bad should have stated that. oh couple hundred thats not too bad and it was a 2500 stally |
||
| Top | |
||
| ebmonty92 |
|
||
|
krisisdog wrote: Coupla hundred to install, new gears are like $100 from ebay. If your an apprentice mech you should be able to do it at work yeh? How bigs the stally? Apprentice motorbike mechanic, my bad should have stated that. oh couple hundred thats not too bad and it was a 2500 stally |
||
| Top | |
||
| ebmonty92 |
|
||
|
krisisdog wrote: Coupla hundred to install, new gears are like $100 from ebay. If your an apprentice mech you should be able to do it at work yeh? How bigs the stally? Apprentice motorbike mechanic, my bad should have stated that. oh couple hundred thats not too bad and it was a 2500 stally |
||
| Top | |
||
| ebmonty92 |
|
||
|
s**t! sorry stupid laptop!
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot] and 76 guests |
