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| ferr007 |
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hey all
im still having a problem with my eb wagon i cant find where it is draining the battery my multimeter sayes .11 on a setting of 20 amps on my multimeter ive only got 20 and 2 on dca so im guessing its half so .055 i think it is supose to be around .03 or so im not sure new at this anyway when it has been sitting for a few days it is flat. it has a new battery, alternator is 12 months old and is charging at 14.4v when running, its non smartlock, ive removed all the fuses and still the same no change, ive disconnected the alternator still the same, ive disconnected the wires from the positive terminal the main one that goes to the battery has 0 on the readings, the one with multiple coloured wires is also 0 the one that are black and go to yellow through the fusible link read .11 also and the one that goes from black to yellow reads .14 which i dont know why it gets higher when its by itself but who knows im running out of ideas its not the horn pad tried that or the interior lights or glove box light have tried those as well any suggestions would be a major help as im am really lost on this one thanks guys |
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| dazza027 |
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If it was a sedan Id have said fold down your back seat and check to see if the boot light is on but its not a sedan so I wont say it. Soz. My EB was doing the same thing. New battery has solved the issue for about a month so far but we shall see if it was just that.
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| TimmyA |
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Not a glove box light or something like that?
Anything else thats been added in aftermarket? Like no alarms or immobilisers? When your checking for current you're obviously pulling the fuse and sticking the multimeter across the terminals (as this is how you check for amps) volts is across the potential, amps in inline with the potential... Cheers, Tim
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| ferr007 |
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yea ive checked the fuses when i pull them its the same the only one that drops it to 0 is the instant battery fuse otherwise they all read the same im not 100 percent efficient at using a multimeter so im not sure if im doing the right thing glove box and all has been checked id does have an aftermarket keyless entry system but when i disconnect it, it doesnt make a difference so i dont think its that
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| TimmyA |
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to check amps you set it to amps and make sure the leads are in the right holes then pull the fuse and stick the two probes where the fuse came from... Should be directional...
If you stick red in the left fuse terminal and black in the right fuse terminal it may read negative, turn them around and it should read positive... so the idea is you are replacing the fuse with the mutlimeter... Never check from the pin to earth (like you do with volts) because you'll blow the fuse in the meter (I'm a sparky, my TAFE mates blew a s**t load of fuses in expensive Fluke multimeters)... Sort of make sense?  Cheers. Tim
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| dazza027 |
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Dumb question again, what setting do u click your multimetre to to test amperage???
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| TimmyA |
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The amps setting... But you usually have to move the probe to the other hole two because the Volts Scale is high impedance (Check from positive to earth)... The amp scale is lucky to be 1 ohm... So it goes inline... If you check from positive to earth with 1 ohm, picture using a piece of wire from positive to earth... Its a short circuit... You'll blow hopefully the fuse... If not the coil in the meter... People tend to forget this... Amp is measured inline... not across...
Maybe a picture is called for?
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| TimmyA |
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Trust Google not to have anything...
Excuse the roughness but I made my own... Note how to measure amps the circuit is broken and the Ammeter inserted in series... (easiest way to do this is to pull the fuse and go from terminal to terminal)... Volts is measured from a reference point (earth) to wherever you wanna know the voltage... If you use an ammeter as a volt meter or connect it as a volt meter you'll blow it... if you use a volt meter as an ammeter or connect it as a ammeter then the circuit will no amps due to the high impedance coil... Cheers, Tim
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| ferr007 |
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well what i did was set the multimeter to 20 dc amps and put the positive on the positive battery post and with the battery disconnected i put the negative to the positive battery terminal so the multimeter is between the positive post and the positive terminal on the battery when removed i found on the internet that this will tell me the battery drain or a broken circuit throught the whole system then while looking at the meter i pulled fuse by fuse to see a change and check certain wiring etc the only times it dropped to 0 was when i took off the wires from the battery terminal one one of them and when i pull the instant battery fuse so now im totally confused ha ha
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| TimmyA |
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you are on the right line...
if you pull the inst fuse with the battery connected, and stick the multimeter across its terminals what do you get (set on amps)... You always start with the largest scale and work down to you can get it accurate... So you start on say 20Amps You get a reading of .2Amps (200 milliamps) You have a 500mA scale (.5Amp) You then go to that scale and get it more accurate... If you have it set on 20Amps and get a reading of 2Amps do not select the .5Amp scale because you'll blow the fuse... This is just guessing... Your scales may be different... Autoranging multimeter remove this hassle... But they are in turn slow while the work out which scale to use... Cheers, Tim
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| ferr007 |
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ok tim im confused i have no idea what you wrote so am i doing it right or should i try something else
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| TimmyA |
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TimmyA wrote: you are on the right line... if you pull the inst fuse with the battery connected, and stick the multimeter across its terminals what do you get (set on amps)... You always start with the largest scale and work down to you can get it accurate... I don't know how else to explain it?
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| grnxr |
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I too am confused. Perhaps by the missing full stops.
I had a similar problem. My multimeter has a 'beep' continuity setting. With battery disconnected (+ & - off the battery), I got continuity between the positive leads and the car body. I dropped fuses out until it lost continuity. I guess it could work in a similar way by testing for 12V between the body and -ve terminal with the -ve lead disconnected and +ve lead connected. |
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| TimmyA |
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grnxr wrote: I too am confused. Perhaps by the missing full stops. I had a similar problem. My multimeter has a 'beep' continuity setting. With battery disconnected (+ & - off the battery), I got continuity between the positive leads and the car body. I dropped fuses out until it lost continuity. I guess it could work in a similar way by testing for 12V between the body and -ve terminal with the -ve lead disconnected and +ve lead connected. Wow... To me this proves nothing... And I'm moderately confused... You can't test for where power is going by testing the continuity of the whole system... The beep function proves nothing except short circuits... It maxes out at like 1k ohm... If you came out with an ohm reading you can calculate the current being lost... Ohms Law... V=IR And when you lost continuity you did what to stop the battery going flat? Left that fuse out so thet circuit didn't work at all? And if you disconnect the -ve (leaving all wires connected together) lead and test between it and the body you will get 12Volts... No circuit, so resistances are negligible... So no voltage drop and 12V will be present at the -ve lead with reference to the -ve battery post... So this proves what? I guess that there is a circuit in the car (KAM, clock, other things similar) and also that the battery has a charge... Doesn't prove much else...http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID ... rm=KEYWORD See this... this is designed for ease of measuring the current (not volts, we don't care about them)... you can do exactly what it does by sticking your two probes into either side of the fuse with the DMM set to amps... You are using a DMM and not a AMM? Cheers, Tim
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| ferr007 |
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english is gone im now really lost but i do like the adapter from jaycar good idea so does anyone have any suggestions on what i should do or check besides the things i have done
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