|
93EB |
|
|||
Age: 47 Posts: 2485 Joined: 6th Oct 2005 Ride: 93EB Fairmont / BA Falcon XR6T Location: Western Sydney |
Falcon96XR6 wrote: What mixture ratio do yous run with nulon concentrate? Me personally i use 50 \ 50 mix. Gab1 wrote: You guys are all gonna bag the crap out of me, but I"ve been running nothing but WATER in my cars for years. As long as you change it OFTEN, and keep the level good, I've never had an issue, I've always generally had a minor water leak though, I think when I seal all my water leaks, I'll run coolant, but with plenty of changes and flushes, I've had no issues running WATER. Cheers, Gab If you want to use water i respect your choice but ive always been taught to use coolant with the right mix.
_________________ 93 EB II Fairmon8 with 17' EL GT's / Clear indicators / H.I.Ds / Sports exhaust / Lowered 2' / K&N / XR6 ECU. |
|||
Top | |
Mad2 |
|
|||
|
93EB wrote: Gab1 wrote: You guys are all gonna bag the crap out of me, but I"ve been running nothing but WATER in my cars for years. As long as you change it OFTEN, and keep the level good, I've never had an issue, I've always generally had a minor water leak though, I think when I seal all my water leaks, I'll run coolant, but with plenty of changes and flushes, I've had no issues running WATER. Cheers, Gab If you want to use water i respect your choice but ive always been taught to use coolant with the right mix. as have i... altho i used tectalloy 30 years ago in a mostly iron block [yeah i know] with not a problem - alloy was clean as Gab - do you flush often? [sediment] |
|||
Top | |
Gab1 |
|
|||
|
I flush it every time it looks dirty - Keeping in mind that I look under my bonnet EVERY time I drive my car - But I'd prefer to run coolant - it's just I haven't had enough funds to make everything "spot on" yet, so I've just been very careful to run CLEAN water in my cooling system, and it's been ok. Mind you, I now have iron heads and an iron block (5.0 Litre) but i've done it in alloy head cars too and it's been alright. I don't recommend it, but it's been ok.
Cheers, Gab |
|||
Top | |
bry40l |
|
|||
|
Dont some cars need coolant as it also lubricates the water pump? Just a thought
_________________ BF XR6 |
|||
Top | |
EF_wanabe |
|
||
|
bry40l wrote: Dont some cars need coolant as it also lubricates the water pump? Just a thought Yeap I would suggest to Gab , to run a few drops of redline water wetter , or if someone here could provide a household alternative that would be even better for a budget |
||
Top | |
TROYMAN |
|
||
|
no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis..
you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water.. |
||
Top | |
EF_wanabe |
|
||
|
TROYMAN wrote: no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis.. you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water.. ahh ok never knew that must be a big myth then coolant provide water pump bearing lubricant |
||
Top | |
Mad2 |
|
|||
|
EF_wanabe wrote: TROYMAN wrote: no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis.. you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water.. ahh ok never knew that must be a big myth then coolant provide water pump bearing lubricant whaaat the fraack...... your kidding me right??? |
|||
Top | |
cjh |
|
|||
|
One of the first jobs a new inhibitor does is to coat all the metal surfaces in the cooling system, and what is left over is the residual alkalinity.......this runs out over time....cheap coolant runs out sooner than quality coolant.
Therefore, if/when you change/flush the cooling system and you don't know what was in it before, run a chemical cooling system flush through it.....the one I like to use is the Loctite brand one.....this removes most of the old coating from the previous coolant. The inhibitor I run is Repco Inhibitor Concentrate ( 1 bottle makes 10 litres ), so I use 2 bottles, and change it every 2 years, and haven't had a headgasket, or any other gasket, or water pump problems. It doesn't get cold here, so no need for anti-freeze here, but is does get hot, and I haven't had overheating issues, even when towing another car. It's up to you as to what coolant you want to run, but the coolant must have at least 900 grams per litre of Glycol to be any good.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
Top | |
xELFalconx |
|
|||
|
I've always used Tectaloy Gold with mine. A bottle mixed with distilled water.
_________________ 4.0L Tickford six, 1645b E-series custom grind, MLS gasket, performance valve springs, 3" stainless intake, extractors, 2.5" Lukey, 100cpi hi-flow, T5 manual, J3 tune. |
|||
Top | |
cjh |
|
|||
|
Repco Anti freeze, anti boil is 1060 gm/litre of Ethylene Glycol.....minimum mix is 33% for old school, and 50% for newer stuff.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
Top | |
low_ryda |
|
|||
|
you can also get glycol free inhibitor which is what track cars run without heating issues. Glycol is banned in racing due to it's 'oily coating' abilities. I understand this isn't relevant for street cars but it helps my point:
The working pressure increases boiling point more than the glycol does. If I remember correctly for every 15psi you get a 10 degree increase in boiling temp. Glycol actually retards the coolants ability to purge heat, so in some cases makes heating problems worse. If you feel the need to run a glycol based coolant then a properly functioning cooling system should still only need what the manufacturer specifies which in all my fords is 33%. (check your own specific requirements) Adding more glycol just becomes counter-productive in most parts of this country.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
|||
Top | |
cjh |
|
|||
|
low_ryda wrote: you can also get glycol free inhibitor which is what track cars run without heating issues. Glycol is banned in racing due to it's 'oily coating' abilities. I understand this isn't relevant for street cars but it helps my point: The working pressure increases boiling point more than the glycol does. If I remember correctly for every 15psi you get a 10 degree increase in boiling temp. Glycol actually retards the coolants ability to purge heat, so in some cases makes heating problems worse. If you feel the need to run a glycol based coolant then a properly functioning cooling system should still only need what the manufacturer specifies which in all my fords is 33%. (check your own specific requirements) Adding more glycol just becomes counter-productive in most parts of this country. The point at which there is too much Glycol is 68%....what it doesn't do above that mixture is pass the heat from block to coolant to radiator...as was my understanding when I did a Wynns school about 20 years ago. Since then, there is OAT and HAT type coolants.....none of which I like. I concider 33% mix to be a cheap skates way......50%....lasts longer too. Thats just me though.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
Top | |
xpression |
|
|||
|
TROYMAN wrote: no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis.. you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water.. whist you are correct, the bearing is sealed, some cars (Ford LS/LT/LW Focus comes to mind) suffer from noisy water pumps if the coolant is incorrect. I believe it is the seal that needs the lubrication of the glycol. |
|||
Top | |
cjh |
|
|||
|
xpression wrote: TROYMAN wrote: no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis.. you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water.. whist you are correct, the bearing is sealed, some cars (Ford LS/LT/LW Focus comes to mind) suffer from noisy water pumps if the coolant is incorrect. I believe it is the seal that needs the lubrication of the glycol. Yep, the ceramic seal still needs lube.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 32 guests |