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Au2xr6tickford |
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hi just converted my au 2 to the tickford xr6 engine and im looking at building it up starting with exhaust system just wondering if anyone could throw some knowledge and tip on how to go bout it i been told to go a 3.5 madral bend system ?? also anyone know much bout shift kits are they worth installing?
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TROYMAN |
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3.5" ???? that's way way to big..
you wont need any bigger than 2.5".. a set of extractors, high flow cat and that's it.. |
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fullyforded |
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As stated 3.5" is way to big, 2.5 is enough. I had a shift kit in my eb and it was awesome, chirped and kicked out in second. There's a tech doco on here about it.
_________________ Au series 1 ute. T5 manual, 2.5" redback zorst, Xtreme HD clutch |
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Au2xr6tickford |
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Awesome thanks for your helps guy may i ask why 35 too be my step dad i think had that on his wen he done it and as to the shift kits im thinking stage 3 its like 190 seems to be a good idea for an auto
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fullyforded |
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Make the shift kit yourself, it cost me about 45 to make the adjustable version.
_________________ Au series 1 ute. T5 manual, 2.5" redback zorst, Xtreme HD clutch |
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efxr6wagon |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Awesome thanks for your helps guy may i ask why 35 too be my step dad i think had that on his wen he done it and as to the shift kits im thinking stage 3 its like 190 seems to be a good idea for an auto Had a 2.5" mandrel-bent system custom made for my AU2 XR6 VCT, behind Coby 6-2-1 headers and no cat. I has two high-flow mufflers to keep it a bit quieter, and it sounds and goes great. Turbo cars normally use 3", but in a mildly-modded N/A car that is probably not gaining you much over a 2.5". If you are considering $190 for a shift kit, why not buy a TI Performance Stage 2 chip for $189. For that price, they can program it for nice, tight shifts at full throttle, but milder shifts in normal driving. They can also increase shift points and rev limits, plus adjust the fuel and timing to take full advantage of your new free-breathing exhaust. You will not be disappointed. Then, when you get the bug, you can buy your own tuning pack and fine-tune it yourself or adjust for any other mods you do.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Awesome thanks for your helps guy may i ask why 35 too be my step dad i think had that on his wen he done it and as to the shift kits im thinking stage 3 its like 190 seems to be a good idea for an auto if your car is live axle 3.5" will not fit over the diff. if its irs the 3.5" will scrape on s**t if its lowered.. I had 3" on my six when it was turbo and it was not restrictive, so even a 3" on a n/a 6 is overkill unless its worked off its tits... so as to why.. its not going to sound good, it will resinate so bad you will want to stab yourself in the ears to stop the noise..lol there is no performance gain from a 3.5" exhaust, and it will cost more than double the cost of a 2.5"... even most std to mild worked v8s don't even need a 3.5" exhaust.. |
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