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| 79 raven |
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Got an issue with the thermostat I reckon, the gauge goes up to the M before it drops when warming up and when the car's getting a bit of a workout ( up hills, traffic etc) it likes to sit on the M. cruising behind a car it goes up but sits on the top of the L when cruising on an open road on a cool day.
I recently had the whole cooling system flushed, radiator rebuilt ( single core Natrad) and new hoses, along with the reco head. The Thermostat Pepe's gave me was a Tridon TT228-195, I cant find the opening temp on the net but I assume its about 91 degree's. What thermostat opening temp would you guys recommend? Car is a 1994 Ef Fairmont with a tickford head/cam, extractors and an au head gasket ( raised compression). |
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| bry40l |
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Have you replaced your water pump? A good e series will get up to operating temp and stay there unless your really giving it a hard time
_________________ BF XR6 |
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| efxr6wagon |
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The 195 in the Tridon part number means 195 degrees F, which is 91 degrees C. This is the standard temperature thermostat for an EF, so wouldn't be causing your gauge to read high (unless the thermostat is faulty). You can go at least one step cooler without upsetting the ECU, but that won't fix your high temp problem.
It doesn't sound like your temp sensor (just below the thermostat) is likely the problem, but it's not impossible. Are your thermo fans coming on OK? With the car stationary and idling, the fans should start a couple minutes after the thermostat opens (when the top rad hose gets hot). Once when I had the rad out of my EF, I forgot to plug the thermos back in; the temp got hot every time I slowed down or stopped. Interestingly, I could have gone forever on the highway, and never noticed the fan wasn't working. The rad was more than capable of handling the heat without fan assist. Could be the water pump. Does the temperature gauge drop when you turn the heater (and ventilation fan) on? That would indicate a good water pump but radiator not coping - for whatever reason. If the heater on makes no difference to the temp gauge, then the radiator is cooling OK.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| cjh |
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Just to be technical, the Ford spec t'stat is 92*C....P# ART 92 G.
Also, drill a small hole as seen in the pic...this helps eleviate " heat shock " and helps bleed air of the system as well. This was a Ford TSB....back in the late 90's
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| TROYMAN |
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if it runs a little higher then your confortable with i would go for a 87 degc thermostat. which is a 188 deg f, thats what im running in my au..
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| 79 raven |
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Yeah the thermo's kick in when she gets to the top of the M and I can actually watch the thermostat open on the temp gauge as it goes to the middle of the M and then drops down quickly to the A. The flow is great so I would say the pumps not the problem as when the thermostat does open it flows very well.
Thanks Troyman. Ill go the 87 I think |
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| eed-250 |
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i run a tridon 180 thermostat (82 degrees) perfect setup.
Make sure you get the HIFLOW option |
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| 79 raven |
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I think it was from raising the compression with the Au head gasket that didnt help either with the 91 thermostat. In saying that its been a bit more stable now the harmonic balancer has been done so maybe that was not helping the pump. Still to high for my liking.
Do you think an Na tickford head raised compression with a single core radiator running an 82 would be too low? Im leading towards Troymans suggestion of an 87, where will the 87 kick in on the gauge when it opens on warm up? Id like the bottom of the M at most and to sit bottom of the A or middle of the A under normal load. |
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| TROYMAN |
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raising the compression that tiny amount wont make it run hotter,
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| Pakrat |
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Didn't know you could get 87deg thermostats. Sounds like a better option then 81deg
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| 79 raven |
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TROYMAN wrote: raising the compression that tiny amount wont make it run hotter, O.k. Sorry I got told that by the bloke I bought the thermostat off when I asked. Bugs me because it flows great when opened and I spent all that cash on getting the cooling system professionally flushed and the Natrad single core radiator rebuilt and I was expecting a car with no drama's with heating up. I know its still within the " normal" range but the thermo fans dont kick in until it goes above the M, when I get the J3 I might also see if they can kick in the thermo fans earlier, maybe at the middle of the M |
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| Pakrat |
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How often does it get up there?
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| 79 raven |
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when warming the car up it goes to the top of the M before it quickly drops down to the A ( thermostat obviously opens then) and when driving in stop start traffic and going up the mountains from Penrith on a hot day it sits around the M for most of the way until you get to open cruising traffic at around 80km/h with minimal hills ( no extra acceleration needed) and then it slowly goes back down to the A.
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| 79 raven |
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Living in Lawson its about once a week or once a fortnight we go down to Penrith and travel back up the mountains. I am looking at doing a decent trip to Brisvagas later this year and want to have a steady low temp before I even consider the trip.
Katoomba Radiator service did the radiator overhaul and flush with fresh coolant. He did say the radiator was blocked if the car overheats when going up hills but then changed his mind when I said he had reco'ed the radiator and agreed it was the theromostat.... |
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| Ballast |
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last time I checked, this 'M' that you refer to is part of "NORMAL". I wouldn't worry about it
_________________ Remember kids, the more pages of crap in your build thread, the bigger your e-penis is |
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