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the sam |
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TerroristGHIA wrote: Personally i would be inclined to look at the fuel pump/ecu relay, located under the radiator header tank. They are known to fail and cause similar problems. Do your interior lights work, if so, then it isnt the smartlock module. Good luck Brett ^ Can you hear the fuel pump prime?
_________________ LOW, LOUD AND LUMPY |
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67RCE |
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first, 13.9 volts is too much for a non running vehicle. Second check you have solid earths. These would be the first things to do.
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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Matt_jew |
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I reckon it's a stuffed battery terminal. Works fine until it needs to supply a load of current when your starting it and it will die in the a***.
_________________ xr6turnip wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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tearlejc |
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EVL098 wrote: I reckon it's a stuffed battery terminal. Works fine until it needs to supply a load of current when your starting it and it will die in the a***. Agreed this is a real possibility - get a ten buck multimeter, earth it, then start probing around and see where you DO have 13.9 volts - at the battery is one thing, what do you have on the starter?
_________________ 351 4V XB Coupe running LPG |
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matman72 |
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Thanx tearlejk,
thats was all i can think of too,. Start at the battery, or the starter, and keep testing along the system until I find where there is no power. But, I just thought, the starter wont have voltage until the key is in START position, am i right? And fusible links are another possibility, i read. Haynes manual, doesnt tell me much about where these are, or what they look like. Man, this sux |
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tearlejc |
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matman72 wrote: Thanx tearlejk,
thats was all i can think of too,. Start at the battery, or the starter, and keep testing along the system until I find where there is no power. But, I just thought, the starter wont have voltage until the key is in START position, am i right? Your starter terminal where the big thick lead from the battey goes should have full battery voltage at all times - remember what it actuallty bolts to is the solenoid which is just a remote controlled heavy duty switch - your key start closes that internal switch. So if you measure that lead where it joins the solenoid, you should have full battery power. Don't be afraid to probe around a little - I had one where the lead had full volts, but then I touched the solenoid's actual nut where it was bolted on, got maybe 6 volts less - there was just enough corrosuon to make it a high resistance... And fusible links are another possibility, i read. Haynes manual, doesnt tell me much about where these are, or what they look like. Man, this sux
_________________ 351 4V XB Coupe running LPG |
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matman72 |
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Thanx for the tips guys,
I took the battery out, cleaned the terminals, all connections, checked all the wires, put it back nice & tight---all good. Except my headlights are now dim as ****, but not always. AT least its running, thanx gain matt |
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tearlejc |
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matman72 wrote: Thanx for the tips guys, I took the battery out, cleaned the terminals, all connections, checked all the wires, put it back nice & tight---all good. Except my headlights are now dim as ****, but not always. AT least its running, thanx gain matt With your headlights being dim, when you put the battery terminals on, on the earth one, was there a smaller cable / thick wire that attached to the body itself? (There may or may not have been one on your particular model, but if there was, and you didn't re-connect it, or if its a bit dirty or not grounding effectively, then the path for your lights to earth is through the engine etc. ) Just a thought, I'm sure those that own the same model can confirm..
_________________ 351 4V XB Coupe running LPG |
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matman72 |
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thanx ,
ill take a look at that. |
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