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t_sar |
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I have just installed a new thermostat into my car.
The tempareature guage keeps moving up and down when the car is warmed up. I have tried to bleed the system by removing the thin hose that goes into the thermostat housing. Any tips on how to do this right. Is it done while the engine is running? |
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TROYMAN |
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it should self bleed, the small hose on top of the thermostat goes to the recovery tank, which is the highest point of the cooling system, basically just leave the radiator cap off start the car let it warm up so the thermostat is open and all the air will rise to the highest point of the cooling system, top up the coolant if necessary, do the cap up and thats it..
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ausedwagon |
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i had to use a spill free kit to bleed my ed because the gas sits so high in the engine bay. bursons sell them but there bout $80 its basically a water tight funnel.
_________________ 94 White ED Wagon |
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cjh |
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Did you drill a 2.5mm to 3.0mm hole in the t'stat ???
Did you use a genuine t'stat ( p# ART92G ) ?????
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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BEAR80 |
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Age: 44 Posts: 683 Joined: 4th Mar 2010 Ride: BF Fairmont Ghia & TS Magna Location: central coast |
cjh wrote: Did you drill a 2.5mm to 3.0mm hole in the t'stat ??? Did you use a genuine t'stat ( p# ART92G ) ????? I am putting a new thermostat cover and thermostat in the ed, would I have to drill a 2.5mm to 3mm hole in my thermostat and why is it necessary to do so if they don't come manufactured like that Cheers bear |
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cjh |
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BEAR80 wrote: cjh wrote: Did you drill a 2.5mm to 3.0mm hole in the t'stat ??? Did you use a genuine t'stat ( p# ART92G ) ????? I am putting a new thermostat cover and thermostat in the ed, would I have to drill a 2.5mm to 3mm hole in my thermostat and why is it necessary to do so if they don't come manufactured like that Cheers bear I was doing this about 10yrs before Ford themselves brought it out as a TSB. If have a wander around at some Falcons that have been to a Ford dealer in the last 7yrs or so, it should have red paint on the t'stat cover bolts. It helps with bleeding air from the system, and to stop "heat shock" at the radiator too. I was an FRT.......Ford Registered Technician......left that at the end of 2001.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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BEAR80 |
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Age: 44 Posts: 683 Joined: 4th Mar 2010 Ride: BF Fairmont Ghia & TS Magna Location: central coast |
cjh wrote: BEAR80 wrote: cjh wrote: Did you drill a 2.5mm to 3.0mm hole in the t'stat ??? Did you use a genuine t'stat ( p# ART92G ) ????? I am putting a new thermostat cover and thermostat in the ed, would I have to drill a 2.5mm to 3mm hole in my thermostat and why is it necessary to do so if they don't come manufactured like that Cheers bear I was doing this about 10yrs before Ford themselves brought it out as a TSB. If have a wander around at some Falcons that have been to a Ford dealer in the last 7yrs or so, it should have red paint on the t'stat cover bolts. It helps with bleeding air from the system, and to stop "heat shock" at the radiator too. I was an FRT.......Ford Registered Technician......left that at the end of 2001. I will be taking this information onboard cheers bear |
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EL__Fairmont |
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Turn heater on and start the car and hold the revs at 2000rpm for about 5-10mins.
_________________ 97 EL Fairmont 4l OHC .Silver. |
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lee lee le bonk |
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Apparently alot of radiater shops suggest to drill holes in eb-ed falcon 6 cylinder thermostats or knock out the bleeder valve to avoid what they call "thermal shock". You will notice thermal shock when the temp gauge going up and down constantly. It will rise slowly and then drop quickly. Not good because it can lead to cavitation and eventually failure in the headgasket. Up side is it stops this. Down side, it takes longer to warm up the engine but at least it maintains a more consistent temperature.
To fix this some head shops sell kits that fix this. Basically they drill a hole in the back of the head and put a hose from there to the bypass hose so that a better consistant temp can be maintained through the entire head. The reason headgaskets fail on 6 cylinder falcon engines is because it cant get the excess heat out of the back of the engine because of poor coolant flow. Hence why number 5-6 cylinders fail and why the back of the head warps.
_________________ Fords Rule. OK. |
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t_sar |
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Thank you all for your replies.
Quote: Did you drill a 2.5mm to 3.0mm hole in the t'stat ??? Did you use a genuine t'stat ( p# ART92G ) ????? No and no. I let it warm up without the radiator cap and gave it a few big revs. I even drove it around for a while but it still has the same problem. I found the old thermostat and it does have a small hole pre-drilled. I don't remember seeing a hole on the new thermostat. I'll drill out the thermostat tomorow and i'll let you guys know how it went. |
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cjh |
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Use a genuine t'stat. I have found that non-genuine ones don't cover the bypass port in the lower housing........cuases it to take too long to warm up.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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t_sar |
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I put in a new thermostat today. Same problem...
The old and new thermostats both have holes in them already(aprox 1mm diameter). I got them both from the same shop, so i'm thinking it might be a bad batch. The original thermostat(the one I replaced on Saturday) also had the same sized hole in the same location, but I never had the problem with the temperature going up and down. I'll go to Ford tomorow and get a genuine one. |
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TROYMAN |
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the fluctuation you are seeing is the cooler radiator water entering the engine causing the temp to drop, the cooler water gets to the thermostat and it closes .. then the temp will slowly increase untill the thermostat opens again and the cool water enters the engine droping the temp again.. this happens over and over...
what opening temp is your old thermostat? and what is the opening temp of the new one?? |
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t_sar |
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TROYMAN wrote: what opening temp is your old thermostat? and what is the opening temp of the new one?? The original and the 2 new replacements are 91 C. |
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t_sar |
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Just an update.
Fitted a genuine Ford thermostat. Problem solved. Thanks to all who helped. |
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