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| smally351 |
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Leave the inlet manifold where it is, just unbolt it from the head. If you have a 10mm ratchet ring spanner, you can get to all the manifold bolts ok.
Get a "head set" gasket set, as you will get the inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets along with the rocker cover gasket and timing cover top seal.
_________________ Real Cars have Chrome Bars |
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| the_scotsman |
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Ok thanks for that...I was going to try leave the inlet manifold there, but seemed like it would be a pain in the a** to get to all the bolts...and I just want to do it properly and have a look inside the plenum & intake, more out of curiosity than anything...lol...so is it best to go the AU head gasket kit? If so, which AU...just AU? or XR6 or what?
It doesnt matter that I have a May 98 build EL XR6 (hybrid) ? Thanks! |
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| smally351 |
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We have been using Permaseal Graphite gaskets with good results. Cant comment on the AU gaskets, other than my AUII popped a gasket at 45,000km and was done under warranty. 2 years and 30,000km later, I think it may be on the way again.
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| Rapier |
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you will need a gasket for the thrmostat housing as well, possibly an exhaust manifold gasket as well, might as well replace it will be cheap
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| the_scotsman |
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OK, the head is off, so much easier than I thought it would be...
One problem...what do I do about that little shim thing that is still in the head? How do I get it out, or will the people who skim the head be able to remove it? 
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| smally351 |
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They will be able to remove the dowel without damaging it.
On the subject of the gasket that goes between the thermostat housing and head, get a genuine steel shim type one, Ford part number AU8255A.
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| the_scotsman |
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Ok thanks thought they might...
Yea, when I pulled the thermostat housing off, no gasket is there, only red sealant s**t...surprised it hasnt leaked before now... |
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| the_scotsman |
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Head got skimmed today, looking sweet now!
Just need to give the block face a final clean up then she's all going back in! One thing thats got me worried...really worried.....I was following the gregories, setting TDC...crank the engine till the timing mark is TDC and the mark on the timing chain cog is in line with the top of the head. I did this perfect...but having read over the forums, it seems pistons 1 and 6 should be fully up...mine arent! I think 3 and 4 are up fully on mine? Is this a problem? I have done everything exactly as gregories has said, and havent moved anything, so should it all go back together ok as long as nothing moves??? |
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| Gaz |
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is the timing mark on the cog on the left hand side?
IIRC there is 2 revolutions of the cam for 1 on the crank or something? so if the mark ont he cam sprocket is on the LHS of the engine your 1 rotation short? it should be ok if everything still lines up
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| the_scotsman |
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The mark on the cog is on the passenger side...
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| Slabz |
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ElwoodBlues wrote: It definately looks like a blown head gasket to me.
You should be able to do it yourself aslong as you have correct tools and as long as the head isnt damaged and you have the parts and preferably a friend to help it could be done in a day or 2. Remember when you take out the head bolts its a good idea to change them as the have a tendancy to stretch. it does look blown. you have to change the head bolts everytime they come out becuase they are torque to yield which means they are made to stretch. the gasket costs about $30 i think or you could look into an AU one, they are better i think?? (feel free to prove me wrong)
_________________ EBII 4.0L GLi | T5 | 3.27 Spool | POD | KKK K27 Turbo | 600x300x76 FMIC | 40mm Wastegate (dead) | RPD Stg1 Cam | B&M Launch Control | Thermos | 3" Dump | Twin 2.25" Zorst | 197kw@3500rpm, 7psi LEAN!
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| the_scotsman |
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OK...head is back on.....cam and rockers back on...
Ive really f**k myself up I think...I noticed as I was putting the head on, that the timing marks were NOT TDC as I had set in the begginging...I must have moved it when removing the belt or something...no idea why? Anyway, I have had the chain cable-tied to the sprocket the whole time so it cant have moved...so am I right in thinking...even if the crank has moved since the cam/head was off, it wouldnt matter as the chain wont have moved differently in relation to the crank....?? Im confused though as when the crank is on TDC, the mark on the sprocket is not lining up...? from what I can see, thats impossible...? If it is the case that the timing marks are out between the crank and sprocket, what do I do tgo get all the timing back to scratch? ANYONE help!?? |
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| Krytox |
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if your cranks on TDC, obviously your cam isn't on tdc, make sure it is before you bolt on the rocker gear as the valves 'might' touch pistons
might be ur problem dunno
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| the_scotsman |
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ok, so if I get the crank on TDC, and the gear isnt on its mark, should I unbolt the gear, and move it round until it is lined up then bolt it back on?
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| bigbell351 |
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if the cam gear is out it will mean the cam is out, not the gear, the cam gear should fit to the cam and be located by a dowell, ( i think ).
you may have had the chain tied to the sprocket but if there was no tension kept on it, it has probably jumped a couple of teeth down on the crank. so if you unbolt the cam gear and turn it, it wont fit back up to the cam. take cam gear off, turn crank to tdc, if cam gear mark does not line up, hold tension on chain, take out cam gear, line up cam to where it would line up with cam gear, put cam gear back in and you should be right. |
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