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| ILLaViTaR |
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Hey guys, I have the car in for a RWC Wednesday and I was almost finished all the work after being stressed out by dad that it had to all be done today/not left to last minute (despite there being all tuesday sigh).
Well I just chucked the tyres on without sitting down and missed that I left the calipers off the discs!! Well no worries, I'll just grab a clamp and reset the piston....nope they're both slammed shut, I'm assuming they're seized???? As the brake pads are touching eachother I doubt the pistons ever gone so far in 15yrs. Any chance they're not seized and maybe locked or something?? I'd say they're seized for sure though, the clamp didn't make them budge at all. Also I was wondering how the hell I get my brake pads out of them?!?!!!  What are my options?? Or the cheapest option? Second hand calipers or rebuilding my existing ones?? I've got all tomorrow arvo to do it so I should be right for the RWC inspection Wednesday. If anyone knows anything on the topic any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm stressing out haha. Pretty funny that it happened but the stress not so much!! Cheers. |
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| 61xkwagon |
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i was thinking you could put a socket on the outside of the brake pad that is showing through the caliper bracket (where your thumb is in the pic) and put the whole thing in a vice, squeezing on the socket and the caliper itself and try to push the whole lot in enough to atleast get your pads out , if you get what i mean.
_________________ i hate it when its raining, makes my left foot slip off the clutch all the time Last edited by 61xkwagon on Tue Feb 07, 2012 12:14 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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| BAXLS03 |
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Did you drive it? Doubt that you would have seized it. When you say clamp it what do you mean?
Looks like the piston side pad is out far enough that you could use a persuasion wrench and knock it out with a cold chisel or something. Then if the piston hasn’t come out to far you should be able to put it in a bench vice and push it back in…. Maybe. |
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| BAXLS03 |
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61xkwagon wrote: i was thinking you could put a socket on the outside of the brake pad that is showing through the caliper bracket (where your thumb is in the pic) and put the whole thing in a vice, squeezing on the socket and the caliper itself and try to push the whole lot in enough to atleast get your pads out , if you get what i mean. Yeah or do that. Where your right thumb is... |
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| BAXLS03 |
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Man you're fast... lol
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| 61xkwagon |
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BAXLS03 wrote: Man you're fast... lol Are you talking about me? haha
_________________ i hate it when its raining, makes my left foot slip off the clutch all the time |
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| BAXLS03 |
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61xkwagon wrote: BAXLS03 wrote: Man you're fast... lol Are you talking about me? haha Yeah you edited your post... Just as i said near your thumb...Anywho... |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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BAXLS03 wrote: 61xkwagon wrote: i was thinking you could put a socket on the outside of the brake pad that is showing through the caliper bracket (where your thumb is in the pic) and put the whole thing in a vice, squeezing on the socket and the caliper itself and try to push the whole lot in enough to atleast get your pads out , if you get what i mean. Yeah or do that. Where your right thumb is... Hey thanks guys, that's exactly what I did but with a massive g clamp, a vice with a socket would definitely give me a lot more force so I'll try that tomorrow hopefully with results. I hate bleeding brakes but that's inevitible in this case I guess. And yes I reversed it out the driveway heard the clunking and realised straight away, would've only reversed 5 meters but I put the brakes on hence why they've slammed shut. So frustrating haha. Should I just get some second hand calipers or rebuild the existing ones? Do I require special tools to rebuild or anything of the sort? |
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| BAXLS03 |
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ILLaViTaR wrote: BAXLS03 wrote: 61xkwagon wrote: i was thinking you could put a socket on the outside of the brake pad that is showing through the caliper bracket (where your thumb is in the pic) and put the whole thing in a vice, squeezing on the socket and the caliper itself and try to push the whole lot in enough to atleast get your pads out , if you get what i mean. Yeah or do that. Where your right thumb is... Hey thanks guys, that's exactly what I did but with a massive g clamp, a vice with a socket would definitely give me a lot more force so I'll try that tomorrow hopefully with results. I hate bleeding brakes but that's inevitible in this case I guess. And yes I reversed it out the driveway heard the clunking and realised straight away, would've only reversed 5 meters but I put the brakes on hence why they've slammed shut. So frustrating haha. Should I just get some second hand calipers or rebuild the existing ones? Do I require special tools to rebuild or anything of the sort? Yeah you won’t get enough pressure with a clamp... I wouldn't worry too much about having to rebuild them.. Just see how they go... Only reason I would think you’d have to rebuild them is if they start leaking... I doubt they have come out far enough for the piston to be dislodged. If you want to avoid removing them from the car maybe you could wedge it under a solid part of the car and use a jack… MacGyver style… lol |
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| efxr6wagon |
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The dust boot hasn't come unseated and it doesn't look like the piston is far enough out to be past the seal, so there should be no damage done. But the tolerances are very fine, so the piston has to go in exactly square. If you put more pressure on one side, it tends to bind - especially if the piston is quite far out of the bore. If you use a socket or similar to push the piston in, it will have to be centred on the piston to keep the pressure even.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| fiend |
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DODGY ANSWER
Smash a chisel between the two pads with a decent size hammer for a while. Then smash out outter pad using hammer on chizel and processes such as leverage. Then put G-Clamp over calliper to piston and wind the clamp in. Only reason G-Clamp couldn't move it would be if piston has come out too far and therefore needs to have extra attention spent on it (like a drawer being closed out of square...). I use G-Clamps to push mine in all the time... How, exactly, would you apply a G-Clamp to that setup with the pads still present? If you're pushing on the outside of the calliper then all you're doing is trying to squash the calliper?! That ain't going to do anything (even a vice or bench press would achieve little - nothing even...) You have to get the outer pad out. Cut down the middle with an angle grinder - whatever. Hopefully smashing a chisel between the two and some decent persuasion will get it moving. Piston shouldn't have come out too far, those pads look thick still, but... Well... Maybe... Min' front brake rotor thickness is 27mm or 29mm or something... So closing them without 29mm in the middle... Well...... |
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| snap0964 |
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It's a rear caliper, yeah ??
Couldn't you unbolt the top part that swings open to reveal the pads - tap the pad furthest from the piston upwards with a drift and hammer, other should fall out, carefully G clamp piston back in. You could get a vice grips, bit of tape/protection on the jaws, squeeze the rubber line, remove caliper from car for better access. Refit caliper and bleed. Edit: Be nice to know what model Falcon - the rear calipers do vary.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| bry40l |
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fiend wrote: DODGY ANSWER Smash a chisel between the two pads with a decent size hammer for a while. Then smash out outter pad using hammer on chizel and processes such as leverage. Then put G-Clamp over calliper to piston and wind the clamp in. Only reason G-Clamp couldn't move it would be if piston has come out too far and therefore needs to have extra attention spent on it (like a drawer being closed out of square...). I use G-Clamps to push mine in all the time... How, exactly, would you apply a G-Clamp to that setup with the pads still present? If you're pushing on the outside of the calliper then all you're doing is trying to squash the calliper?! That ain't going to do anything (even a vice or bench press would achieve little - nothing even...) You have to get the outer pad out. Cut down the middle with an angle grinder - whatever. Hopefully smashing a chisel between the two and some decent persuasion will get it moving. Piston shouldn't have come out too far, those pads look thick still, but... Well... Maybe... Min' front brake rotor thickness is 27mm or 29mm or something... So closing them without 29mm in the middle... Well...... this is what id do, and just replace the pads, not too much of a pita, just stay calm lol( i know when you f**k up its hard to stay calm but at least try )
_________________ BF XR6 |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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Haha thanks everyone, I managed to get it done by just sliding the pads up as they're different to the fronts and dont clamp into the piston, then i got the g clamp on the piston once the pads were out and eased it back in, bled the brakes and all working now!
With the g clamp the pad is exposed on one side so I just tried pressing the piston back in via the outer pad, didnt work until the pads were out. Was an EF II ghia btw. |
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| Pakrat |
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Um.
I'm surprised everyone besides one didn't mention the top can basically swing off. If the pistons not popped out then Try an push it in. Go nuts. I use a big pair of multigrips if I don't have a piston tool. Crack the bleed nipple if you're having trouble. Someone's helps but watch you're eyes. |
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