|
| twase |
|
|||
|
I installed my WR-6250 AU XR6 HP cam today and I was not able to use the broom and brick method suggested in the techincal document on the subject. I did manage to do it with a crow bar across the engine bay and tie wire to hold up the gear, worked a treat.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| rushed |
|
|||
|
seriously resetting the tensioner isnt that hard, move ps pump, and its right there...
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| twase |
|
|||
|
I would have saved a good half hour by not doing it.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Andrew J |
|
|||
|
I did neither? When i did my head i just sat the gear on top of whatever was there, let the chain go slack, everything. Popped back on easy as. Mines never had real good oil pressure, and the mtor hadnt been started for about three days before i pulled down the head, so maybe that makes a difference?
_________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| EBGizmo |
|
|||
|
The tensioner acts in a ratchet manner - it will extend out and not go back in in several increments. If its allowed out too far and you do up the cam, you put too much tension against the plastic guides and they get chewed up in no time. If your chain is already stretched big time and the tensioner is on its last click, this might not be too much of a drama for the guides, but you get the other stretched chain issues related to timing.
_________________ EF II Sedan
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 64 guests |
