a hemi is a much different engine mate

i like the way you read 'ford fairmont' all i want is a big cam yer totally
i clearly stated i want a better 0-100 time and get the power by raising compression and installing a cam which i can actualy feel kick in

so are yous suggesting i get a 3inch exhuast instead of a keeping my current 2 1/2

and the springs have already been changed
and i think its clear i wont high compression because i stated im getting head work done and even started a new thread spesificaly asking how to raise compression
it is a daily driver
i dont get much money often so i save up for ages before i get stuff so i need something thats not a big load of wank

and how is 150rwkw pathetic when no one belived i even had that much power in the first place
and yes the ford I6 is a good design and has been developed and is continuing to develope so how can u say it hasent

yeah good execuse....just like that "freak" grechie motor....u have an answer for everything...and no substance....

listening to u is like reading a "hotting up for dummies" book....your like the know it all 1st year mechanic apprentice

you misunderstood me....

150rwkw is quite weak in comparison to other 4.0 ish motors

people put 2.5inch exausts on highly worked 4 bangers....back in the day 3inch exhausts on 253's was common....once a certain power level is reached you need a bigger pipe

what other 4litre motor u talking here??? apart from the 265 slate 6 that was werid since it was faster than both the 350's 351's and the 308's but apart from that i dont know of many other common 4litre cars that pull much on power ( altho there is a 1980's beamer which is 3.8litre n/a and has 140rwkw standard)

i guess il put in for a 3inch cat back system then

lol who do you think you are mate?
show me one sentance where i have listed incorrect information or talked out my a** like have the C*** on here...

you're comparing a hemi engine to a taxi engine.
a 400hp hemi 6 will be slightly different to the engine a 17 year old can afford to build...
so far you have provided only one example of a 170rwkw n/a falcon.
and no discredit to grechie, but i hardly believe that figure from a mild cam.

hemi was a truck engine....doesnt matter what it came from...i know of a 4.8lt chev 6 that puts out 350RWHP (250 rwkw) that was a truck engine also

no one else believed that grechie figure either until he backed it up with 13.8 @ 160 kmh...

i believe there is no point in going to a bigger cam when the intake and exhaust are too restricted...
this cam can produce power well over 150...

i ask you to back your claim up that a bigger cam will deliver the goods....who has actually dynod a 1521 or 977b or similar and gotten well over the infamous 150? genuinely interested

yes a bigger duration cam will ultimatelt produce more hp and yes the 1673 is reletively mild....the 1673 is a budget regrind cam that can use std springs....like u said how much can a 17yo afford??? a billet and upgraded springs is gunna cost a lot than $150

Last edited by gogetta on Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

your the only one i know of who says there so restricted tho, not one other person has said they are if anything lots of people inslucind many diffrent tunners not just mine say the intake is already perfect and does nothing if u upgrad it which is true my m8 tried a standard intake vs his ss growler kit and no diffrence at all he actualy floggged it off for 300bucks coz he was f**k off at it

and dosent a car need backpressior to produce power or what ever it is?

your the only one i know of who says there so restricted tho, not one other person has said they are if anything lots of people inslucind many diffrent tunners not just mine say the intake is already perfect and does nothing if u upgrad it which is true my m8 tried a standard intake vs his ss growler kit and no diffrence at all he actualy floggged it off for 300bucks coz he was f**k off at it

and dosent a car need backpressior to produce power or what ever it is?

i never claimed anything about those cams buddy...
i simply said these figures are not realistic for a mild cam in this engine with a stock head as you put it.

i could pull some random figures of power from random engines as well, but they are not the same engine, so whats the point?

Well here's my 2 cents, i've been sitting back quietly watching this thread unfold ..

If you are wanting a quicker 0-100, shorter diff gears are the way to go. 3.9's or 4.11's it's up to you.

The 977b cam you were looking at would be a reasonable cam i would say, it's the cam i plan on using in my EF auto later on after i finish working on my spare head which will go on with it, as well as a 2500 stall. The 977b pulls harder in the top end than the 1673 from what i've heard/read which is why i want it. I'd say that cam would be good for around 150-160kw from an auto with the other usual NA bolt on mods, some headwork and a proper custom tune done on a dyno. But if you have 150kw and are wanting more power you might be wanting to look at a more aggressive cam, with a stall to match - maybe see if Wade can make up some kind of custom grind, with a mix between 2 profiles or something or maybe even talk to CMS as they have seen good results with their cams.

I'd stay with the 2.5" if that's what you have right now. The cost of a 3" system IMO will not be worth the trouble on an NA car if all you want is better 0-100 times.

Depending on how much of compression increase you are planing on, shaving the head will only give a minimal increase in your CR, i wouldnt be taking too much off the head either or else you may run into timing chain issues (slack). The proper way would be to run high comp pistons, shave the head by a minimal amount so its flat and use an AU gasket. If you just want to bump it up a little while the head is off, get maybe 15-20 thou off the head and an AU gasket and that should give you a little boost.

150rwkw for an auto is pretty respectable IMO, manuals get power a little easier which is why you see most of the guys running the higher kw readings running the good old T5.

Anyways, those are my thoughts, best of luck with it

well your two cents was worth it so thanks for a reply

i cant get a manuel since i cant really drive one.

if the 977b-14cam is more top end wouldent that make it pointless for a 0-100 set up then?
and i plan to have quite high compression unless it doesnt do much for the power then il seek power else where

lol your not taking much of this in...
if you want to go fast n/a you need to have a trade off in the way the power is delivered.
a larger cam will shift the power curve further up the rev range.
in an auto you will need to fit a stall to match, wich means it will flash to the rpm that is getting a good amount of power/torque.

so a larger cam doesnt mean slower 100kph times, but everything has to go together as a package

Im talking top end as in high rpm rather than top speed

The 1673 is supposedly a mid-range to top end cam. The 977b from what i have researched has more top end punch than the 1673. Power starts coming on at around the 2800 mark and makes power up to the redline. All depends on how it is dialed in though, if you are using a vernier cam gear you can adjust (advance or retard) the cam timing to bring on power a tad earlier or a tad later.

You'd be wanting a 2500 stall though to get the engine closer to the revs where the cam starts to bring on torque when you stomp it off the line. When it changes into the next gear i.e 1st into 2nd, the engine will still be spinning in the revs where the cam is making power which is ideal.

the 977b is the same as the 1673 on the intake and sluightlyy more on the exhaust...(correct me if im wrong)

not sure what difference this will make as its usually a later closing intake valve which allows the engine to keep making power higher up...

1521 is the next larger for intake duration