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| shav |
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whats the postage cost to send a cam to wade and back?
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| ford-racer46 |
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There and back rejistered, i think 32ish not much
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| shav |
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ford-racer46 wrote: There and back rejistered, i think 32ish not much ah ok, thats better than I expected. Did you get you cam fitted by a mechanic or do it yourself?
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| ford-racer46 |
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shav wrote: ford-racer46 wrote: There and back rejistered, i think 32ish not much ah ok, thats better than I expected. Did you get you cam fitted by a mechanic or do it yourself? I did it myself, its so easy as dumb as i sound on here sometimes it took just over an hour, but i dunno what you have, meaning im not sure if you want a re-grind or billit, and i dunno if you'll be ok without an amidiate tune, mine ran like a pig!
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| ford-racer46 |
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I just checked my recipt bud it cost $20 freight, its cheaper to send to them by a bit if you supply your own packaging.
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| shav |
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ford-racer46 wrote: shav wrote: ford-racer46 wrote: There and back rejistered, i think 32ish not much ah ok, thats better than I expected. Did you get you cam fitted by a mechanic or do it yourself? I did it myself, its so easy as dumb as i sound on here sometimes it took just over an hour, but i dunno what you have, meaning im not sure if you want a re-grind or billit, and i dunno if you'll be ok without an amidiate tune, mine ran like a pig! I have a SCT flash tuner. It will need to be tuned straight away. I'll get Bruce Heinrich to do it. I know I 'could' do it myself, but would rather Bruce fitted and tuned it with the shims etc. and be safe than sorry. Just not 100% sure if the grind you have will suit my application best or not. Im not gonna bother about a vernier gear. I'll just run it as standard. I wanna do this as safely and cheaply as possible. Hence why I offered to buy your cam. But if the price difference is negligible then Im better off getting my stocky ground specially to suit my application and be done with it.
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| ford-racer46 |
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shav wrote: ford-racer46 wrote: shav wrote: ford-racer46 wrote: There and back rejistered, i think 32ish not much ah ok, thats better than I expected. Did you get you cam fitted by a mechanic or do it yourself? I did it myself, its so easy as dumb as i sound on here sometimes it took just over an hour, but i dunno what you have, meaning im not sure if you want a re-grind or billit, and i dunno if you'll be ok without an amidiate tune, mine ran like a pig! I have a SCT flash tuner. It will need to be tuned straight away. I'll get Bruce Heinrich to do it. I know I 'could' do it myself, but would rather Bruce fitted and tuned it with the shims etc. and be safe than sorry. Just not 100% sure if the grind you have will suit my application best or not. Im not gonna bother about a vernier gear. I'll just run it as standard. I wanna do this as safely and cheaply as possible. Hence why I offered to buy your cam. But if the price difference is negligible then Im better off getting my stocky ground specially to suit my application and be done with it. Oh yeah for sure man! dont wanna f**k ya pride and joy up, i dont no who you mean(tuner dude) but dont let him ride you, its very,very easy and fast exchanging cams. The tune however dunno but let me now how it goes hay, ive been told that my grind suits your app. Ask WADE on the open for discussion forum, there great, or Troyman he's a champ!!
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| shav |
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cheers dude. I have spoken with Troy about his cam. Is his the next size up from your's or is it the same??? Not sure. But all I know is that his cam didnt really suit a auto trans. Which is what I need it to do.
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| TROYMAN |
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shav wrote: ford-racer46 wrote: shav wrote: ford-racer46 wrote: There and back rejistered, i think 32ish not much ah ok, thats better than I expected. Did you get you cam fitted by a mechanic or do it yourself? I did it myself, its so easy as dumb as i sound on here sometimes it took just over an hour, but i dunno what you have, meaning im not sure if you want a re-grind or billit, and i dunno if you'll be ok without an amidiate tune, mine ran like a pig! I have a SCT flash tuner. It will need to be tuned straight away. I'll get Bruce Heinrich to do it. I know I 'could' do it myself, but would rather Bruce fitted and tuned it with the shims etc. and be safe than sorry. Just not 100% sure if the grind you have will suit my application best or not. Im not gonna bother about a vernier gear. I'll just run it as standard. I wanna do this as safely and cheaply as possible. Hence why I offered to buy your cam. But if the price difference is negligible then Im better off getting my stocky ground specially to suit my application and be done with it. shav. you might find that after you fit the au 1645 cam the car will run ok but will probably hunt at idle untill it gets tuned, with a larger cam ,the manifold vac at idle will be slightly lower putting the fuel and timing into the next level on the map, so what was partial load on the map before is now idle.. i have a vernea gear fitted but when it was finally dialed in it ended up being fine and was set to 0... that may be because the head on my enginehas has never been off , so the tolerances in the cam chain/timing have not changed.. and afaik wade cams are ground to try keep them fitted as close to std as possable.. i guess you could go the au1645 and if its a bit doggy down low shorter diff gears or a high stall could be fitted at a later date, ??? otherwise you may be limited to the au equivilant to the 1673 or 1636 ?? its a hard call!!!! but in saying that im considering goung back to auto myself!! so i may find out soon enough.. |
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| ford-racer46 |
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shav wrote: cheers dude. I have spoken with Troy about his cam. Is his the next size up from your's or is it the same??? Not sure. But all I know is that his cam didnt really suit a auto trans. Which is what I need it to do. The 1645 suits auto if you get the 114lsa, i have auto
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| ford-racer46 |
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Sorry posted be4 troy did, its not very punchy down low man but once she kicks in....B...B...BYE!!!
Thats all i wanted to no be4 should i swap cams or keep this baby and shorten my diff gears! so i can have the best of both worlds...kinda!
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| shav |
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ford-racer46 wrote: Sorry posted be4 troy did, its not very punchy down low man but once she kicks in....B...B...BYE!!! Thats all i wanted to no be4 should i swap cams or keep this baby and shorten my diff gears! so i can have the best of both worlds...kinda! Well it sounds like all you need to do is go 3.7s and a stall and you would have the best of both worlds! And Troy thanks for the advice. Its a difficult one. Id rather not worry about a stall or diff gears if I can avoid it. At the same time I dont want to sacrifice off the line grunt. Its a little doughy as it is and if it got worse I know I would crack the s**t. If I could get a grind that maintained the same bottom end power as I have now, but increased power to 5500rpm+ that would be ideal.
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| ford-racer46 |
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shav wrote: ford-racer46 wrote: Sorry posted be4 troy did, its not very punchy down low man but once she kicks in....B...B...BYE!!! Thats all i wanted to no be4 should i swap cams or keep this baby and shorten my diff gears! so i can have the best of both worlds...kinda! Well it sounds like all you need to do is go 3.7s and a stall and you would have the best of both worlds! And Troy thanks for the advice. Its a difficult one. Id rather not worry about a stall or diff gears if I can avoid it. At the same time I dont want to sacrifice off the line grunt. Its a little doughy as it is and if it got worse I know I would crack the s**t. If I could get a grind that maintained the same bottom end power as I have now, but increased power to 5500rpm+ that would be ideal. 3.7's...Sounds good ill get some funds i recken, I went to a Trans guy today and he said my car wont run a stally properly because its electronic & if i want a trans brake ill f**k everything up!
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| TROYMAN |
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shav..
maybe the au eqivilant to the 1673 with 114 lobe centres might be better?? wade list the 1673 as, more power than 1636, with better idle and more torque than 977b.. and there 1636 is, low to mid range power... 
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| shav |
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ford-racer46 wrote: shav wrote: ford-racer46 wrote: Sorry posted be4 troy did, its not very punchy down low man but once she kicks in....B...B...BYE!!! Thats all i wanted to no be4 should i swap cams or keep this baby and shorten my diff gears! so i can have the best of both worlds...kinda! Well it sounds like all you need to do is go 3.7s and a stall and you would have the best of both worlds! And Troy thanks for the advice. Its a difficult one. Id rather not worry about a stall or diff gears if I can avoid it. At the same time I dont want to sacrifice off the line grunt. Its a little doughy as it is and if it got worse I know I would crack the s**t. If I could get a grind that maintained the same bottom end power as I have now, but increased power to 5500rpm+ that would be ideal. 3.7's...Sounds good ill get some funds i recken, I went to a Trans guy today and he said my car wont run a stally properly because its electronic & if i want a trans brake ill f**k everything up! He's correct. I wouldn't do it if you can avoid it. However, You CAN get your standard converter modified to accept a few more revs. Its a pricey exercise but you should get some benefit from it when you take off at the lights. All comes down to whether or not you think its worth it. Then again that could just be for C4 auto's, Im not sure. Not clued up with all the latest electronic traanys. lol
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