Is it practical to remove the sump engine in car in EL 6?

Will undoing mountings and lifting it provide enough room?

thanks.

the best way i found is to unbolt and lower the k-frame making sure the body and engine supported, there is still things that have to be unbolted.

isnt that stuff wired into the suspension heavily, would you disturb the wheel alignment etc?

Its a fair bit of work to drop the k-frame, but still less than pulling the engine to do it. It wont mess up the wheel alignment or anything like that

(no need to post in bold either )

Ok, well, im going to look into that again, looked pretty daunting first glance.

Every approach looks daunting, just to get a sump gasket changed..

Its not that bad. Ive posted some instructions and pictures here before on how to do it, ill see if I can dig them up.

- Jack front of car up, remove front wheels
- Drain oil
- Support the engine with crane/block and tackle, remove the engine mount bolts
- Remove engine->trans braces and bellhousing cover plate
- Disconnect tie rod ends and intermediate steering arm
- Remove the k-frame bolts and pull it down. If you need more room, remove the top shocker bolts and power steering lines at the rack end



You could always try cleaning it up and squeezing silicone all around the gasket.

i might also add that when i dropeed the k-frame in my vk to do the c*m gaskit i used a strong bit of wood and rest it on the top of the shock bolts, jack the motor up and tie a chain to the motor and above the wood. IMO its safer then having a hydrolic jack holding it there

That looks great, great pic, and thanks for posting it.
Certainly sounds like less steps than motor or motor-trans removal.

Sump gasket has gone hard, there is a funny leak at drivers front corner of sump beside crank pulley, visible looking down from front of engine bay. Its funny how when i run the thing, no oil immediately appears, but seems to appear and dribble down a couple of minutes after i swithc it off during this test.
Since sump gasket is rock hard, should be done, i guess, i tried tigtening sump bolts, didnt help, little point when gasket is no longer soft, i guess..

Great sump-cam..

That looks like its got Twin branch engine pipe, or are those extractors?

BTW, what sort of rear main seal do these have these days, a two-piece rubber seal like Holdens, or the old rope things still?

Rear main is a one peice seal that presses in from the back, you need to take the gearbox / flywheel out to change the seal as its in the back of the block and not under the bearing cap.

They are extractors (Pacies i think but i could be wrong)

thanks, re: rear main

more bad news, so cant get it without splitting eng and trans, dont know if its a problem the seal or not.

PDATE on this oil leak, isnt sump.


Im battling a leak which answers to same description, exactly.. ends up on RH front lower corner of sump, but is falling down from above, not from sump itself, even though gasket has gone hard.


One final investigation of this, with the alternator bracket off to improve view, shows its not coming from sump, but from above, but not far above. Ive watched it run with a n old HQ mirror head down there to watch where oil comes from.

Believe it or not, seems to be coming from the water pump bolt position where water-pump meets block, the bolt at about the 4 oclock position adjacent to timing case. Unable to say yet its not from the nearby timing case, but actually seems to be from the water-pump bolt, and yes, this trails down like a snail trail, onto the extreme drivers corner of sump and block, from there onto the x-member or tie-bar,runs along horizontally there until there is sufficient build-up and from there naturally, onto the ground.

This makes little sense to me, that there is even any oil circulation behind that water-pump bolt, would expect it tobe either dry or a water-jacket not oil-jacket point, but it seems pretty clear to originate from there, and undoing that bolt, bolt itself is coated with wet oil.

Funny thing, running the engine with the bolt OUT, revealed no oil now exiting, but a small weap of green water, now the pressure is off the WP gasket, i guess, but why would the oil now STOP, with bolt out altogether?

Ive tried to put goop down the hole, and on bolt, and do it up, time to test this morning when goop is dried sufficiently, hope goop doesnt goop somethign that actually needs to flow behind there.

Obviously if this fails, strategy is removal of water pump and proper replacement of the WP gasket with sealant as well, which isnt hard..ive now partly stripped front of engine anyway, hunting this oil leak.

OP, this is not first mysterious oil leak from engine front Ive had to track and deal with, a much larger one than this, was traced to the timing case bolt, running along it, its the timing case bolt that the alternator brace tube-type bar pivots on.
Oil was pissing along this, when I bought car. Soaking alternator by running along the bar from the TC to the alternator, and soaking most of the rest of the RH front of engine, actually.

As readers have told you, PS pump and hose connection is also a big chance, of course, the fluid should have a tell-tale red colour, but Ive been through the elarning process of curing this presssure hose connection nut of leaking as well.