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| bennomate |
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Gday all,
I have a bit of an issue with my 94 EF XR6. It runs a bit warmer than it should (between M and A on the NORMAL in the guage), and its mysteriously loosing coolant. Car has never overheated but was gettin pretty hot at one stage last summer (my problems began at the beginning of that drive). however the spark plugs all look the same, there is equal compression in all cylenders, no white smoke and only a few minor external leaks of coolant which is more green slude and not really liquidy. (thermostat housing, waterpump/heaterpipe joint). And the oil looks normal. Im stumped at where to begin. Ive gone from max coolant to min coolant in about a year, but i reckon it went quicker in the last 3 months. Any help would be appreciated Cheers!
_________________ F6 Typhoon Silhouette with Dark Argent rims, build P0001. Stock as a rock and staying that way. |
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| frd906n |
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Could be losing the coolant while its under pressure while your driving
_________________ Daily Driver, Series 1 Au Forte Quote: Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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| comhelp |
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Age: 41 Posts: 638 Joined: 6th Nov 2004 Ride: 1994 Ford EF Fairmont Ghia Sedan Location: Melbourne |
check the heater hoses and heater tap. especially if it is a dual fuel car as these are common faults
_________________ 1994 ford fairmont ghia - Currently 302 with T5 - Work in progress |
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| 4RDPWR |
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Hi have just remedied my daughters EF with same probLem you're experiencing by changing the thermostat, I drive an EF myself which ran constantly cool and fixed that problem as well by changing the thermostsat.. Worth a try mate, maybe the seepage around that area is a sign. Cheers...
_________________ Have you driven a REAL Ford...lately? |
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| SV-Valiant |
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check the fittings under the coolant bottle? but should be easy to spot, follow the green trail from the leak?
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| SV-Valiant |
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check the fittings under the coolant bottle? but should be easy to spot, follow the green trail from the leak?
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| dazza027 |
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Falcons have a tendency to run hot if they have a pressure leak somewhere. Coolant going walk abouts is a pretty good giveaway that something is not as it should be. With the engine at operating temp and running, carefully and methodically check all of the plumbing, including the pipe that runs around the back of the head from the rear of the water pump and all the heater hoses under the manifold. Pay particular attention to all of the joints and clamped areas. Also, have a good look at the water pump itself for signs of leakage. A shagged water pump will be showing signs of leakage around the little hole in the housing above the impeller shaft. Also, check the heater box inside the car, if you have wet carpets this may explain the coolant loss. Next thing would be get the system pressure tested. After that? Insure it then burn it.
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| OZBMX |
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bennomate wrote: Im stumped at where to begin. Ive gone from max coolant to min coolant in about a year, but i reckon it went quicker in the last 3 months. e.g. have you been topping it up? afterall over a year? Have you cleaned the enging bay down to help diagnose it?
_________________ Signature removed by moderator.signature must not exceed 120x500 pixles |
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| bennomate |
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Alright i took the car for a drive and drove it hard to get the system nice and hot and under pressure so if there is a leak i could find it. Finally found where its goin. Out the head gasket and down the block behind the power steering pump, and right at the back of the motor. No idea why it doesnt end up in puddles under the car
 While im on it, does anyone know of good places around Sydney (the hills area if possible) to get the head machined? Thanks for the help guys.
_________________ F6 Typhoon Silhouette with Dark Argent rims, build P0001. Stock as a rock and staying that way. |
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| frd906n |
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Maybe Au motor time?
_________________ Daily Driver, Series 1 Au Forte Quote: Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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| Johnson stroker |
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There is a guy at castle hill thatI have used before to get flywheels done, I'll try and dig his name and number out.
You will be up for about the same cost as getting an AU engine and dropping that into the hole as you would rebuilding your head and reinstalling it. But I would still do the head over an AU motor. Just preference I guess.
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| SV-Valiant |
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[quote="bennomate"]Alright i took the car for a drive and drove it hard to get the system nice and hot and under pressure so if there is a leak i could find it. Finally found where its goin. Out the head gasket and down the block behind the power steering pump, and right at the back of the motor. No idea why it doesnt end up in puddles under the car
While im on it, does anyone know of good places around Sydney (the hills area if possible) to get the head machined?quote] I dont think you need to have it Machined, for any replacement head i have done i have never had the head Machined i think unless it needs to be done its a waste of money all i have ever done is used a straight edge over the head to make sure its not warped checked for cracks and replaced it with a new head gasket and new head bolts and as in this case it's just the gasket gone not the head why waste your money on something that doesent need to be done just replace the gasket?. |
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| bennomate |
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dc_todd wrote: There is a guy at castle hill thatI have used before to get flywheels done, I'll try and dig his name and number out. Alright thanks that would be great. Yeah I wouldnt mind VCT but because im on my Ps you cant replace the engine, thanks to the retarded P plate conditions. Besides id rather just do the head and keep it nice and simple.
_________________ F6 Typhoon Silhouette with Dark Argent rims, build P0001. Stock as a rock and staying that way. |
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| krisisdog |
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bennomate wrote: Yeah I wouldnt mind VCT but because im on my Ps you cant replace the engine, thanks to the retarded P plate conditions. Besides id rather just do the head and keep it nice and simple. Yes you can, P Plate restrictions have no effect on this engine swap. Honestly theres not much more work in doing an engine swap over a headgasket lol. |
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| bennomate |
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krisisdog wrote: bennomate wrote: Yeah I wouldnt mind VCT but because im on my Ps you cant replace the engine, thanks to the retarded P plate conditions. Besides id rather just do the head and keep it nice and simple. Yes you can, P Plate restrictions have no effect on this engine swap. Honestly theres not much more work in doing an engine swap over a headgasket lol. Ok now im interested  How much better are the AU engines than the EF ones (besides being lower Ks), ive heard the head on those dont breathe as well as the EFs. You cant cam a VCT from what i can tell and the HP motors have the same power as the EF?
_________________ F6 Typhoon Silhouette with Dark Argent rims, build P0001. Stock as a rock and staying that way. |
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Cobalt blue EF XR6, Pacemaker 4499s, 2.5" redback catback, intake, head shaved, wade 977b, crow valve springs, pedders suspension.
