this will be a mod of biblical preportions if you get the ZF 6 speed working in an E-series yo!

hey do u happen to have a picture of the l shaped plug ur using for the doors trims?

I must say that what your doing to your ride is awesome. I've been wiating for someone to upgarde their E-series gearbox to a ZF as I wanted to do the same for my EL-XR6.

Just one question though, can you use the ZF with an EL eninge?


Great work mate, cant wait to see it finished.

the car i had with all the ba rear seats is now long gone and so are the l shaped plugs i made. quite easy to make your own, just fit the door trim up and whatever gap is left over you make up a plate to fill it. its not a big gap anyway, i still havent gotaround to that on this project, just because its not very obvious.

as for the zf gearbox with an e series motor i would expect that to be quite difficult (not impossible)
the zf gearbox has a fused bell housing on it, so you cant take it off and use an au one like you would with the 4speed. maybe possible to make custom holes or an adapter plate but im not sure. also you would need some standalone ecu to operate the zf as it has its own module inside which is married to the bf/fg pcm, so far i dont think there is any standalone ecu to do all this yet, so overall it would be time consuming and expensive, by the time you have done that you could have funded a complete conversion (much easier in the long run.

update on my car

everything is done, ive completely re-wired the car to bf2 can 2 standard. everything is in and all the vital signs are there, i now need to get it all reset and finally a tune.
however it dosent stop there. i now have a nizpro plenum, rocker cover, ported and flowed turbo with modded wastegate acctuator, surge tank and external fuel pump, catch can, and a few other bits and peices to add to the madness so will be a little bit more time spend but well worth it in the long run.

i will attempt to post some pics up tonight.
cheers jesse

sorry some of the photos are night shots so they arent the best

close up of temporary crossmember for zf 6 speed

mods to access new pins lhs

mods to access new pins rhs


beautiful image of k fame and suspension rolled under

me getting intimate with my new k frame


close up of zf roughly in position


close up on plates and welds

finished k frame mods rhs


trial fit motor to mount gearbox crossmember

lining up gearbox with trial fit motor

au engine mounts seemed more suitable at the time


cheers scott for the help your wagon is next

wagon which will be receiving the fg xr6t 4wd treatment

au diff install to match rim offset and accept brembos soon

xr wagon again

motor back in

new 19" rims in au offset to suit ba k frame etc

ba k frame complete and 6 speed in place


new rims

xplode sub to go with premium sound gear

factory bf2 premium sound amp in boot

bad photo of my premium sound addition (10"xplode sub)

6 speed shifter

sound active boost and oil press gauges i love this mod these are good gauges matching the cluster

new bf2 cluster with 6 speed and traction provisions


au leather rear seats

au leather seats with moniters

zf box from exhaust side

zx box from pass side

everything in including ALL bf2 wiring (eng body and dash)

awesome update.
looking forward to the wagon too

Love the build!!!
Would be an awesome thing to do....one day maybe

so u got the pins and cut the area around the pins out?..could u explain how u put them in?..just im doing this in one of my cars and im finding out different ways to do it

Wow, nice update! I'm impressed. Keep at it!

Cheers

ToranaGuy

just noticed i didnt write it..but in talking bout the k frame

yes the wagon is going to be a fun build im looking forward to it, going to be alot of things done differently this time round in regards to mounting the dash and more attention to detail.

mounting the k frame is a bit difficult due to crush tubes that need to be removed and getting everything lined up 100%
what we did was hung the motor and gearbox (that suits the new k frame) in the engine bay with no k frame in and mounted the gearbox up, from there we could get an accurate measurement on an engine mount bolt hole, (you could just measure the overall lenth of gearbox and up to a point on the motor to work off, with everything ouside of the car, but actually mounting it all up will guarantee accuracy)

so we used a engine mount bolt hole to govern the position of the k frame, then bolted the mounts onto the kframe and measured the distance from that bolt hole to the first locating pin, we then tranferred that measurement over to the car where our engine mount bolt mark was. (only to discover that e series use the same locator in the exact same position) so that was a bonus and one less hole to drill.

we bought some 3mm by 50mm flat bar (6 metres worth)
drilled 2 templates up to fit the k frame and also to use as a stencil on the chassis rails.

with all the holes marked out you can then see which "old" crush tubes were going to interfere with the new ones, these were removed, from memory there was 3 on each side, 2 that run vertical through the rail and one horizontal one, we used a small grinder on the horizontal one and used a steel hole saw for the other 2.

with that sorted we could then drill the holes for the new crush tubes and pins (8 of each) the first two closest to the firewall needed to be pinned from the bottom up due to no room to drop the pin through the top (strut towers in the way) the front 2 were dropped from the top down.

so on one side of the rail we drilled a pin sized hole and opposite to that we drilled a crush tube sized hole, we then welded the crush tubes in place on our templates and lifted the whole lot into the rail and welded it in. (this essentially meant that there was additional strength to the chassis rail because of the templates sandwiched ontop and bottom of the rail. this also sealed everything off nicely.
one downside to the 3mm template on the underside of the rail is you endup with 3mm added to the ride height in the front which isnt much really. but this also lowers themotor a touch which helps the bonnet collision problem a bit.
its then a case of lifting the k frame up and bolting it together, the rear 2 pins may need a nut welded to the bottom to help tighten them up.

its hard to write the process down so i hope that makes sense. i should have taken some more detailed photos to help with that.

ill be happy to help with any more questions.



cheers Jesse

Awesome job mate , you make it all look too easy. My mate had those gauges and holder in his ba and they really don't hold up well in the sun . The gauge pods warped and the gauges started playing up ,but you should be ok if you use one of those sun visor things.

cheers for the info on that, not good news tho.... payed alot of money for them hopefully they hold up

Impressive and inspirational work once again my friend.

I really need to find some $$$$ to finish my Barra conversion. I envy you in that you will be able to drive yours soon.

Cheers
BenJ

cheers benj can say the same for all your work!
i have actually had mine running with the 4 speed, was using it as a daily for roughly 2 months untill i got more ides.....
what exactly is left on your project till you can fire it up?

cheers Jesse