If you have a different key you will have to have the security system reset. For that you will need 2 keys and a trip to Ford.The fuel light with the line in it means the fuel shut off switch has gone off. just push the red button on it. make sure its mounted properly and it wont go off again.

am i missing some thing ? i woudnt have a clue how mate ?

Forgive me, wrong person

lol thought so
i had the blue el at the act ford day not the ed . did like the ed thou heaps of work into it

thats f%!n insane great job done really well .. well done love it

ps ...wanna start mine lmao

You can't just leave it to re-learn like an E series with smartlock...

Its the imobilisation...

You have the PCM out of the ute (computer/body module (not sure on BA componentry))

and the keys/barrel out of a different car...

That key out of the other car is not coded

You'll need to go to ford and they'll put their IDS tester on it and train the keys (or rather the chip in the key) to the Body Module...

Maybe, if you hold the ute key near the barrel while your starting with the other car's key... It might work... (I think its a wireless thing so might work if its closer/stronger signal than the other key)...

If that other light is the fuel cut off I'd assume you wont hear the fuel pump wiz when you turn to on...

Training new keys without an existing key is a nightmare (so my old man tells me) So take a ute key with you... and get the three keys trained, but the ute one obviously wont turn the barrel... This takes less time and might work out cheaper for you...

Cheers,
Tim

Hope this helps...

With two existing keys you can third yourself (in the owners manual) well this is the case for the g/f's fiesta anyway...

Without two existing keys you need to go to Ford... The old man tells me its easier if they have at least one key esp if its the master key (in the case of our fiesta that is the one without buttons (usually with a blue chip in the end) as its likely to be one you leave at home and don't loose)...

Can only try and see how you go... If you have two keys... check the book if not your only bet is to drive to ford... well tow it to ford...

you need the ford network and their patented IDS test and diagnosis system... I doubt even as auto elec would be able to help...

many thanks for all the help guys,

i called up ford today and was told that the key will need to be cut (as i only have one and you need a minimum of two...) then they will marry all the modules, icc and the keys together with their software they seem to think this should all be sorted in an hour and a half.

as for the fuel cut off switch i have reset it already by pressing it in, i have just mounted it upright for now with tiewire but i assumed that would have been good enough... i will just get another one maybe my one has packed it in... is it possible that i might have the two fuel lines around the wrong way...?

Jesse

ignore this post had to edit it as i sent the previous one twice

Hahahaha ok we'll start with a ticket to tassie!

a few more pics, just been spending time making it look like a car again. also does anyone know what that engine light is exactly??

the engine light tells you the engine is stopped doesn't it?

It picks up for the generator side of the regulator in the back of the alternator... and 12 volts off the battery is fed to the other side of the light...

So when the generator (alternator) isn't spinning it grounds (for sake of the axample) the wire out and the light comes on... When the generator is spinning and produces 12 volts back down the wire... So then you have 12 volts to either side of the light, and as such no voltage difference across the light means it goes out...

Always something to remember... that just because the light is out (when running) doesn't mean there is any voltage there, as there is actually 12 volts... its just the way its wired up...

The symbol in the ED doesn't look like that... But I assume they are the same thing?

Other than that I think you've excelled there... How'd you go with the key and getting it starting?

Also what are you going to do about the gap in the door trims, the last guy actually cut the inner door out of an AU and welded it into the ED outer door and this eliminated the gap...

Cheers...

cheers for that info!
im just not familiar with that light, i guess i dont really pay attention to it when a car is running

i havent had the funds to get the car towed to ford and pay for the reprogramming yet, as i also have to get another key cut (minimum of two) got my wedding coming up in a month so it has to go down in the list of priorites for now im sure once that has been done it will start first go.
although i do need to sort out the fuel cuttoff light, might need a new fuel cuttoff switch i think ive tampered with mine a bit.

Yeah i saw that extesive job of re-welding the au door inners! was i really good job and a perfect fit. I have actually already done a complete ba interior coversion before, about three years ago now, it was black xr6t leather (dash all door trims and all rear seats etc...) think it may have been the first one ever from memory, i blew that car up though........ oops.
what i did with that gap problem the first time is just make up an L shaped plug that screws into the door inner and fits snug under the trim. providing its done properly it looks good.
then the only real difference between the welding option is that one you will see steel in the gap and with my option you can have steel or vinyl or wood or plastic or whatever you make the bracket out of, really it is a much quicker option and theres not much difference visually, the trim is still strong and works 100%.
Cheers
Jesse

HEY! Thats my car

Haha its funny what you find when you go surfing the internet lol

If you got any questions shoot me a PM and also if you want to have a quick look at my build thread you might get a few more ideas

http://www.boostedfalcon.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1508

Cheers
Daniel