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ebxr82nv wrote: I was talking to a mechanic mate of mine tonite and he seems to think this may have been caused by the fact the au shaft was never supposed to have to extra load of a dizzy on it. He told me you can buy a strengthend gear to replace the weak piece of s**t that's standard.
But on another note why bother rebuilding the motor? You can pick up low km motors for under $500 now. I think your on the money about AU AUX shafts. On other ford forums etc the majority of AU blocks with dizzy's are shredding the shaft. It doesn't generally happen on an e-series block. Maybe EF ECU, wiring harness, EF tone wheel, EF Crank Angle Sensor and EF cam angle sensor(lives where dizzy is normally located), coil packs etc are a better option when installing a AU falcon motor into an e-series car.
_________________ 97 EL Fairmont 4l OHC .Silver. |
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| snap0964 |
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TROYMAN wrote: we did the die sniffer test on the cooling system and it came up ok. Generally this should confirm whether you have leakage.
I'm wondering why the AU Aux shafts would strip out - I wouldn't think a dizzy would have that much different loading than a cam angle sensor - providing the aux shaft has the same manufacture as EF/EL ones. Are the hall effect setups in the dizzy's clean and look okay - e.g. no bent metal vanes, etc? Any significant play in the dizzy shafts? Are you getting timing scatter at <3000rpm ? - I would think the aux shaft would affect the whole rev range. I'd certainly be swapping someone's EL ECU to see if that's not it - quick and easy to do. Doesn't matter too much, an EL auto ECU will still run the engine in case you have an EL manual ECU.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TROYMAN |
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snap0964 wrote: TROYMAN wrote: we did the die sniffer test on the cooling system and it came up ok. Generally this should confirm whether you have leakage. I'm wondering why the AU Aux shafts would strip out - I wouldn't think a dizzy would have that much different loading than a cam angle sensor - providing the aux shaft has the same manufacture as EF/EL ones. Are the hall effect setups in the dizzy's clean and look okay - e.g. no bent metal vanes, etc? Any significant play in the dizzy shafts? Are you getting timing scatter at <3000rpm ? - I would think the aux shaft would affect the whole rev range. I'd certainly be swapping someone's EL ECU to see if that's not it - quick and easy to do. Doesn't matter too much, an EL auto ECU will still run the engine in case you have an EL manual ECU. hi mate ive tried a new dizzy and a good 2nd hand one. = no difference yea the timing does scatter a little at idle but it only starts to get bad at around 3000. also if you slowly bring the revs up in neutral the engine starts shaking at 1400rpm and smooths out by 1800rpm. ive tried 2 different el ecu,s and i tried the original ea manual ecu last night and it made no difference. tonight i disconected the knock sensor and that made no difference. i also noticed tonight that you can just hear a quiet thudd sound coming through the exaust at idle its almost like it makes the sound once every revolution..its hard to explain.. ive also noticed alot of ticking through the extractors almost like its retarded..or a exhaust leak sound but there is no leak? and the ignition timing is right.? i have thought that the cam timing might be out by a tooth but i find it hard to beleive it would jump a tooth for no reason.. |
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| EL__Fairmont |
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drop your oil and check for bits of metal, generally if an aux shaft gets chewed out your will find something in your sump oil.
_________________ 97 EL Fairmont 4l OHC .Silver. |
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| gogetta |
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I dont buy the aux shaft failing....it drives the oil pump, the dizzy puts zero load on the shaft, how much does the oil pump load it???
go back to basics...run the fault codes check fuel system u should check the fuel filter, pump and relays...the relays and wiring do not last for ever...u should check the tfi outputs such as PIP and SPOUT, these are involved in keeping the FP and ECU relays on...
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| snap0964 |
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I wasn't too sold on the Aux shaft either - although having seen pics on here, it does happen.
My thinking would be to pull the rocker cover, and set up the donk at no1 TDC, and note the cam gear timing mark position, along with the balancer mark position, and the dizzy rotor position. At least then you'll know if this area is sorted or not, any misalignment will be sus - you obviously want to leave pulling balancers, timing covers, etc as a last resort, as this is a fair bit of work, compared to pulling the rocker cover. Fuel pump and ECU relays are easy to check - IGN on, earth the top right pin of the diagnosis connector, fuel pump will run continuously. Fuel pressure should be properly checked - along with leak back of the pump check ball (easier to swap a known good pump) - but as mentioned, if you don't know when the filter was last changed, that would be a good move.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| knowsfords |
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Drop your exhaust at the headers and start it, just to make sure its not something simple like a collapsed muffler or cat.
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| TROYMAN |
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gogetta wrote: I dont buy the aux shaft failing....it drives the oil pump, the dizzy puts zero load on the shaft, how much does the oil pump load it???
go back to basics...run the fault codes check fuel system u should check the fuel filter, pump and relays...the relays and wiring do not last for ever...u should check the tfi outputs such as PIP and SPOUT, these are involved in keeping the FP and ECU relays on... yea im not completely convinced on the aux shaft either but all of the above have been done.. |
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| TROYMAN |
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knowsfords wrote: Drop your exhaust at the headers and start it, just to make sure its not something simple like a collapsed muffler or cat.
thats been done aswell.. and i drove it through the middle of liverpool sounding like a truck lol it defenatly turned some heads. ive spent all week changing and checking and im running out of options. Last edited by TROYMAN on Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:10 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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| TROYMAN |
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snap0964 wrote: I wasn't too sold on the Aux shaft either - although having seen pics on here, it does happen.
My thinking would be to pull the rocker cover, and set up the donk at no1 TDC, and note the cam gear timing mark position, along with the balancer mark position, and the dizzy rotor position. At least then you'll know if this area is sorted or not, any misalignment will be sus - you obviously want to leave pulling balancers, timing covers, etc as a last resort, as this is a fair bit of work, compared to pulling the rocker cover. Fuel pump and ECU relays are easy to check - IGN on, earth the top right pin of the diagnosis connector, fuel pump will run continuously. Fuel pressure should be properly checked - along with leak back of the pump check ball (easier to swap a known good pump) - but as mentioned, if you don't know when the filter was last changed, that would be a good move. i havnt checked the cam timing as yet. but the pump and filter was replaced with a new one on wednesday. we put a fuel pressure guage on it ant it was 250kpa at idle and went up to 300kpa under load..so im still 
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| gogetta |
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did u check to see what is happening with the fuel pressure when it starts to miss....could still be an earthing/relay problem..
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| TROYMAN |
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yea under load while its missing the fuel pressure stays at a constant 300 kpa..
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| gogetta |
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I had a similar problem like this on an EB once...sorry to say I never did fix it....
did the problem start all of a sudden after u changed something??
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| TROYMAN |
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it gradually started to miss last saturday but was starting to idle rough about a week before that.
so i thought it was due for new plugs after 2 years which is about what you would expect from plugs. and its just been getting gradually worse everyday since. now its at the point where it idles rough,the engine shakes at idle,and it now misses and backfires under load.. and as you probably read ive been changing everything to try anf fix it and its just getting worse.. |
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| alfy |
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yeah mate it still sounds like the aux shaft is failing to me.
when you described the thud noise from the exhaust, mine did that too, although it sounded mad, it was killing the engine slowly with every revolution.
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
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