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| falconea |
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I have to replace my heater core and whilst I'm there I was thinking of replacing the A/C core as well.
What I would like to know is it worth going to the A/C from an EF/EL for my EA. I know I would have to replace hoses and the compressor,but is it worth it and whats involved in fitting the EF/EL compressor to the EA block Any advice /help appreciated.
_________________ Drive safe, arrive alive
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| hellbent_ef |
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The pulleys on the ea comps and ef comps dont sit in line with each other., one will appear to stickout more than the other.
There is no gain or even loss i think by changing to the newer comp. If yours is a Sanden, then it will cost the same to rebuild as would the ef comp, which is a Sanden trs 105. All in all, just stick to the same as you got now. Just get it rebuilt if you wanna be sure. Anywhere between $250 and $300 for rebuild through myself. Depends on which comp you have.
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| falconea |
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Thanks for that I will just replace the a/c core in the heater box with an EA one and stay standard.
Cheers
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| A_Boring_Username |
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you do realise that you will have to get the system re-gassed if you pull that out don't you?
unless i'm talking out my a*** again... |
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| falconea |
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Yes I did know that but thanks anyhow. I have to replace the a/c radiator in the front of the radiator as it has been flattened by stones etc, so I will do everything in one go
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| snap0964 |
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IIRC the refrigerant changed from freon R12 to R134A during the E series, from memory around the ED time, I'd suspect yours is maybe R12 (if it's the original charge), which isn't available any longer - no big deal, the system will need to be flushed first before filling with the new oil and R134A.
Correct me if I'm wrong . . . .
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| hellbent_ef |
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spot on....
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| twase |
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snap0964 wrote: IIRC the refrigerant changed from freon R12 to R134A during the E series, from memory around the ED time, I'd suspect yours is maybe R12 (if it's the original charge), which isn't available any longer - no big deal, the system will need to be flushed first before filling with the new oil and R134A. Doesn't all the rubber hoses and seals need to be changed if it ran R12 or is this a myth?
Correct me if I'm wrong . . . .
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| snap0964 |
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I thought that too, but a few years ago when I regassed my HJ ute, all that was requiring changing was the receiver/dryer unit, which will be needed in this case also.
My HJ did have flare fittings and not O rings, so it will be wise to ask. The EF/EL's need the bumper pulled to get to the dryer unit, not sure if the EA-ED's are easier.
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