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| zl_brettlez |
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hey guyz... good 2 b bak ay!?
 nyway anyone know much about the timing guides/chain in 3.9 cfi's. i think mine in the ea are fuked
cheers |
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| pepsimax |
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yeah
pull the motor out and replace em may have to do the sump at the same time
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| altedxr6 |
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Yup ... well, you don't have to pull the motor out, but its easier too,
make sure you have a harmonic balancer puller, if its just broken up the top near the head, I would not worry to much about it ... its common on them ... about 3hours labor for a $7 part .. |
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| pepsimax |
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i should of mentioned pulling the donk was to make it easy.
depends entirely on what has happened
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| Ace |
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my timing chain rattles something severe and seems to be getting worse...
I think the chain is contacting the tensioner, any thoughts on how I can fix this without ripping the engine apart and not being able to rebuild it?? 
Im going to have to pull the head off, thats a given, but I dont want to go any lower then rocker gear if at all possible... |
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| altedxr6 |
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Ace wrote: my timing chain rattles something severe and seems to be getting worse...
I think the chain is contacting the tensioner, any thoughts on how I can fix this without ripping the engine apart and not being able to rebuild it?? Im going to have to pull the head off, thats a given, but I dont want to go any lower then rocker gear if at all possible... try tightening it a bit, if it rattles that bad, maybe your motor has done a few kms and yeah ... ... but the timing chain case can be a b**ch ... sump or head off .. just take the rocker cover off, and have a look at the top chain guide ... right next to the cam sproket ... there is a 10mm bolt there up the top of the head .... undo that ... and see if that guide is broken ... |
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| Hyena |
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Ace wrote: I think the chain is contacting the tensioner
Isn't that the point of a tentioner ?! To take up the slack in the chain ?
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| Ace |
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yeh but i meant it may be loose and sounds as though its bouncing around on the tensioner.
How can I tighten it without going lower then the rocker cover... I really dont wanna pull my engine to pieces 
Im expecting to see alot of stuff that needs to be replaced too, what prices am I looking at for all new springs/seals and a cam regrind? Also I have a lifter seizing only started the other day, going to oil/filter change tomorow and run some s**t to clean the lifter through it if it doesnt rain. |
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| Hyena |
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To get to the tensioner you pull the power steering pump off and it's just below it. Unscrew the centre out, stick an allen key in it and reset the tension. It goes though the proceedure in the gregories manual, but having done it myself and been confused the whole time, I'd take it to a mechanic. lol
A regrind cam, something like a wade stage 2 will set you back around $120 + postage. Lifters are about $12 from total engines on the boulevard at kirrawee. I dunno about the rest, but if your engine is a bit tired all these things start to add up and as you say you'll start to find other problems. If you havent already done the head it'll probably go soon. Do what I did and go see Mark at IT's Performance. He does standard rebuilds (with a mild cam I think ??) for around a grand which saves you alot of stuffing around and you start fresh with all new gear.
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| Ace |
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argh hyena, i just looked in my gregory's... looks pretty complicated but i could do it if i had the right tool...
How much do ford want for it, its only a 3mm allen key with a bit of metal tube around it after all but htey probly want $100+ for it
Did you make it yourself? details!!!? |
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| Hyena |
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I just used an allen key straight up.
Gregories: " Insert ford special tool #34B into the hole... ...if you don't have ford special tool #34B, use a 3mm allen key" haha 
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| Ace |
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lol didnt see that, its as good as done then... ta
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| Ace |
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bah the 3mm allen key didnt work at all, was the retaining bolt supposed to come apart for me to get at the filter (??) or what?
I got all the parts out but they didnt go back in properly the spring was too tight and pushed the tensioner into the chain which stopped the rattle. HOWEVER, the retaining bolt would not go all the way back into the hole and as a result is now leaking oil pretty bad. If i tighten it to go all the way back in the hole the engine starts to labour as the tensioner is pushing the chain too hard and it can hardly move, a good way to snap it. Guess i'll have to take it to a mechanic tomorow with the oil leaking and hope they can fix it straight away. I mean, it took me 20 mins to get the power steering pump out of the way, it'd take a mechanic 5 mins to fix the retaining bolt so shouldnt be more then an hours work at most and I dont think i need any parts. So what have we learned .... When it comes to timing chains, TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC FOR GODS SAKE 
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| Hyena |
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Hyena wrote: I'd take it to a mechanic.
Thank you, come again 
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| Ace |
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I wasnt gunna try and fix it i just wanted to take a look and see what i was up against, I hadnt counted on the retainer and the bolt being unseperably fused (not normal) and the components all being broken and not going back in properly...
*comes again*
Just bought a new assembly from ford with instructions for $160 and installed myself good as new so NER hyena ... heheh
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