yea prety cool read man intresting facts..... but there is 1 thing i dont agree with is taking of at the lights slowly i f****N hate that dont do it in front of me of u will get a fully hectic re aranged rear bumper.. other than that good stuff

Yeah i know its annoying, but its 100% accurate, read here: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_110216/article.html?popularArticle

I've read that three times and i see it actually contradicts what my original glance over found.

Can someone read it and try and simplify it?? Lol, im f**k from my economics test today (even though i had 6hours sleep, didnt study and got 77%). Ca ching!

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0780/article.html
Last image, "'hard' vs 'soft' acceleration rate" 11.8% increase!

Autospeed should send in a CV to ROVE... That's soooooooo funny

Seriously tho - That is interesting reading. How it equates to real world driving is somewhat dubious... The engine may be more efficient per stroke at wide open throttle 3500rpm (at a guess) but you are still going to use more fuel at wide open throttle in second gear than you would idling along in fifth.

An interesting document about engines, for sure. As for a guide to driving your vehicle - It's probably worth taking note of if your thinking of entering endurance races (just how much of this to you think Peter Brock, Old Man Richards or other enduro event champions understood?) but when in traffic and trying to keep your license valid for public roads, I'd still suggest changing up a gear or two and reducing fuel usage by lowering RPM..........

Updated with seriously awesome tips from http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php

But then you'll be copping the fully hectic insurance excess (or bill)...

I don't think he was meaning to take off ridiculously slowly, I think he meant at just a more moderate rate than what most people on this forum do (I know a lot of us probably accelerate faster than the norm). I don't see why people are so worked up about it; fair enough 90% of the people are on here to make their car accelerate faster. It makes me wonder why they would bother wasting their energy reading this thread let alone commenting on it in the first place.

Updated the oil viscosity section (thanks Sturmovik)

Added a section on air intakes, with information on HAI's ('hot air intakes' for economy).
Details on running 50psi in your tyres ~15% gain
Updated lpg data, adding a few details.

Ignition timing; how this relates to lpg and how to advance/retard on e series.

I will periodically update this sticky, alot of my ideas come from:
65+ modifications for better fuel economy.
[html]http://ecomodder.com/forum/fuel-economy-mpg-modifications.php#12[/html]

Tips to remember:
-It's just a car

Hope you all had a good xmas and new years!

anyone here had any real word experience with adding acetone to the tank?
does it just help clean the system quicker?
is it feared like ethanol?

cheers

Its def better, forget my results! I myself wont touch it again, lpg is by far cheaper. You risk spilling it on your paint = f**k panel. As much as i love modifying things, i dont want the s**t on my hands and honestly i dont have the time or the money to go experimenting with a fuel system i didnt design, i know i only stop once ive gone to far, then i have to fix it.

So i leave it going on gas, gap the plugs, change the oil and run 42 or 52 psi all around.
Those few things make a big difference, although 52psi is very uncomfortable unless your on a good freeway!

Updated, check the very top of the first post!

hey mate, some good info there but a few things i have a difference of opinion with. Changing oil filter, should be done with every oil change. Air filters, while a stock paper element flows well and filters quite well, a well oiled type filter (k&n) will filter better and produce better air flow and economy, i learnt this whilst being involved with oil testing with one of the major oil companies. If dust/dirt particles enter the intake it shows as silicone content in the oil sample, using clean well oiled cotton filters we were able to keep the silicone content to a minimun and keep air duel ratios perfect. I dont know about any body else but with all the testing i have done with different octane fuels i have found that i get consist 100 klm more per tank (65l ) using premium mobil over regular unleaded. Oh and btw one of the local cops here informs me that driving bare foot is illegal. Good work though, nice to see someone put in the time and effort on such a topic. Happy new year to everyone as well

I'm a Noob here so I won't say much except that almost everything stated is senior high school physics and cannot be debated. Not if you don't want to appear a complete moron.
Whether they suit your driving style and personal demeanor is about the only comment that can possibly be valid, and if I read correctly the title of the thread is "Economy Guide" NOT "what really pisses me off".
Take what you want on board and if you prefer to spend lots on fuel, drive trains, and maintenance then there are thousands of posts to read, (I know I've read about 40 pages of threads before I even posted here with my first post), all a goldmine of information for everything.
I have raced at different levels since I was 23 and continue to do so, so I know the REAL meaning of going flat out, not plebeian demos against another plebeian between lights, or dragging for less than 15 seconds.
I am 48yrs old and have exactly 2 driving offenses since I got my learner permit.
My cars last well and I get great economy. My EL wagon is a pleasure to drive considering it's parameters and replaces an equally noble XF van. It is not by any stretch even close to the Porsche in any way shape or form. I still get economy from the Porsche when I drive it sensibly (Believe me, EVERY tosswhaller with mags and and a busted exhaust wants to run you, and then head to MacDonald's and brag about it.)
It is really simple, drive sensibly, drive fast cars fast, drive slow cars slow. (Ford Falcons are definitely SLOW.)
REAL drivers know the difference.
That's about my 2c worth on the entire thread to be honest.
BTW
It is a fantastic thread and deserves to be given a regular bump.

Driving barefoot is illegal, goodluck finding a cop who will book you on it.
Plus how often does any one person actually drive without shoes, like twice a year, maybe.

I'd like to know more on your research working with the oil companies!
I swear by the HAI (Hot Air Intake) as opposed to a cai (cold air intake).
Ecu sees the air is hotter therefore less dense, leaning off the petrol or lpg input.
Which leads me to assume that allowing more airflow only allows more fuel to be burnt under WOT (wide open throttle).

I wonder if anyone has published any info on restricting air intakes in order of efficiency, if anyone finds any please post it i dont have time to do any web scanning, all i do is work and sleep atm, 16hour days are killer

Thank you very much Jcflat and Jimmy Clark for the compliments and support!
If either of you have any other tips please share so i can update!

Cheers
Matt

i have never come across the hot air intake issue before, but as i am always willing to learn new tricks i will give this a good test. I was always under the impression that cold air was best. Firstly i will monitor fuel consumption with cold air intake and then do the same trip with hot air intake. I will post results as soon as it is done. As for my involvement in oil testing, i was a race car driver hired to drive for mobil australia, mobil kept a close eye on the oils in our cars and kept us informed on their results after the engine development guys sent in samples after every race and filled out 5 page reports on weather conditions, fuel consumption, oil temp and so on and so on. It was a very interesting time in my life, but i will never regret leaving it to be a dad.

Disconnecting the o2 sensor plug (in the ford v8's) leaves the car in closed loop mode, leaning out the mixtures closer to stoichometric (air fuel ratio of 14.7:1) , i tried doing it a while ago (remember to cable tie the plug onto something cool in the engine bay so it doesnt end up dragging).

I noticed at WOT (wide open throttle) that the Litres per hundred on the factory gauge did not go as high as they did with it plugged in, so from 20mins of logic based testing i concluded that it worked. I'd love to see some evidence either way when someone has some results.

Also there is a menu (works in the EL, not sure on others) for activating a list of information about the car:
A search didnt help me find the original post, which had alot of important data as it explained exactly what each figure meant.

From the 'off' position, turn the key in the ignition one click, then press and release the odometer reset button twice, then again for a third time and continue to hold that until the airbag light turns off. After which time "FORD" will show up on the odometer display. Scroll though the options, its the 4th or 6th option that gives you your L per 100.

There is something like 32 functions, alot of which have undocumented meanings, but half of them give useful information, such as the voltage in the electrical system (12 or 13.8~volts), approximate litres of fuel in the fuel tank (i noticed this changed when i flicked from petrol to gas on an impco system where the fuel gauge did reflect how much lpg was in the system whilst on gas).

Ive also got access to a supply digital fuel adjusters, ive one here not put together, but i easily get my hand on quite a few more. Im sure the e series of vehicles love to run leanest at 12:1, which i think is rediculous, but im not an engineer so i cannot criticise as for their reasoning. Gain more power and better economy after $60 (cost price) and an hour soldering, a AFR gauge would be nessercary though
(holdens, so example use an analogue signal, so these signals are much more easily intercepted and modified, as you can use addition 5v or 12v positive or negative rails with potentiometers and resisters to modify the analogue signal either up or down with the twist of the 'pot')

btw jcflat, i explained most things here very simply for the ease of reading for other users, not yourself, i know you know, you know? haha
Hopefully they give you a little more to work with!