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| aristopwr |
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Hey guys, I have being trying to open my boot ( on a car I bought) and having no luck.. With the key in the boot lock I get nothing at all,no lock noise,the key will turn but thats it.The button on the dash makes no noise either. I spilt the rear seats and I see the garnish is missing,cable is gone and two long strips of grey plastic with some clips sitting on the boot floor.
I see a soleinod? with two wires going to it and a looped white wire on it on the rear left..Any ideas what I can do? Thanks ina advance. |
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| snap0964 |
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First of all, read this - you'll p*ss yourself laughing: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32260
Next, there should be a manual release tag somewhere in the underside of the boot lid. Otherwise, you should be able to find the lever on the solenoid/lock where the cable normally hooks up to.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| aristopwr |
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That's shocking, lucky he managed to get his arm through.
Yeap, the manual release cable is missing though. |
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| Shum's EL |
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snap0964 wrote: First of all, read this - you'll p*ss yourself laughing: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32260
lol its about time this gets a bump again haha |
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| snap0964 |
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Well it is a Fordmods classic thread. . .
aristopwr wrote: Yeap, the manual release cable is missing though. So you tell us there are electrical wires to the solenoid - what's your next move ??
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| aristopwr |
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I managed to open the boot from inside the car(climbing through the back seat and using a screwdriver to open the lock) The solenoid I mentioned before I discovered is for the fuel door release. I then popped the trim from underside of the bootlid and saw that a cable was detached from a white plastic hook thing.I now can open the boot with the key but not via the button on the dash.Any ideas?
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| Paulmac |
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Aristopwr,
I can't check anything until tomorrow morning but I just started removing the electricals, garnish, locks etc from an ED Fairmont boot. I'll try to see what's supposed to move when you hit the button and how it's connected if you like. Paul PS Snap, that's cruel bringing that up again, but you've got to love his candor in the telling of it, it deserves to be a classic. Mac
_________________ What goes around, comes around. |
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| aristopwr |
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Thanks very much Paulmac
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| Paulmac |
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No worries, I'll get on line as early as I can [am] with whatever I can find, if anything, as this boot has taken a beating.
Paul
_________________ What goes around, comes around. |
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| snap0964 |
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Paulmac wrote: Snap, that's cruel bringing that up again, but you've got to love his candor in the telling of it, it deserves to be a classic. Paul, it's always a good read, takes a bit of courage to divulge this to a forum though - ultimately you can expect a hiding.
Mac As far as the electrical side goes, a multimeter and some testing does wonders. You'll find the boot power setup to be the same with EBII/ED & EFI. EFII's and EL's were slightly different.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Paulmac |
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Snap,
I found out tonight the key hole lights on the Fairmont were not going off at all, had to disconnect the battery. So the old multimeter was going to get a work out anyhow. If the ED is not showing power to the boot loon, I'll check it on the EB2. It might be best for Aristopwr to use at least a test light to see if there's any juice [while someone pushes the button], but first he's got to know where to look, so I'll check the colour coding etc where power should be, as my EB2 boot is working fine. Paul
_________________ What goes around, comes around. |
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| snap0964 |
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Paulmac wrote: Snap,I found out tonight the key hole lights on the Fairmont were not going off at all, had to disconnect the battery. IIRC, they get their power off the courtesy light power - can't remember how the earth was interupted (maybe via the door handle). Try pulling the CRT LP fuse and see if they go out. Paulmac wrote: so I'll check the colour coding etc where power should be, as my EB2 boot is working fine. The earth wire to the solenoid should be usually black, so the power line is easy to differentiate - both fuel release and boot are constant power, and their buttons are in the +12v line from memory.
Paul
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Paulmac |
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Aristopwr,
My car, incl multi meter in boot, is in use by a greater power this morning, however the Fairmont boot unlock works. It's a 3 wire connector on the lock itself, main colours are Black, light blue and white. Each has a small, maroon fleck in it, as Snap says either the blue or white wire should have 12v and the other is the interruptor. If you've got no juice, try the fuses and see if your dome light works. Don't ask me why, but it seems that every electrical problem I've had or heard about involves the blasted dome light! Snap, thanks once again, the PO said that since the smash the dome light hasn't worked, I'll check why. It's prpbably more related to having the NSR fender, filler cap and bar melded into one fairly solid piece. If there was constant 12v line to the filler flap it would be the one shorting. Oh, I just realised they are related..... Cheers Paul
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| aristopwr |
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Thanks Paulmac.
Ok, I found that the courtesy lamp bulb was toast so I replaced it and the lamp worked.I then pressed the button on the dash for the boot release which worked but it blew the courtesy lamp bulb..Any ideas what wire is loose and where? everything looks like it is connected properly. |
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| Paulmac |
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Àristopwr,
I can only suggest having a test light or, preferably, a multimeter inserted in your bootlock circuit to test if power is present. Before after and during having some one press the button. Take note of the results. Repeat the 'before' line test with a bulb in. Do not press the button, you already know that result, a short. Disconnect the loom connector from the lock actuator, insert your multi meter, or test lamp into the circuit, remember black is the earth. One of the other two lines should have 12v, if it has insert you positive electrode [or wire] into the other [non earth] socket on the loom. Have some one press the button and see a] if it blows the bulb and b] if your test light flashes or your multi meter gets a brief 12v reading and the bulb is ok. If a] happens your short is back up the line if b] happens the actuator has a problem and should probably be replaced. One of the electrical gurus may have a better idea, but thats how I would begin searching for the cause. Paul
_________________ What goes around, comes around. |
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