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| cjh |
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Puting on another head, and rocker gear.
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{USERNAME} wrote: My Sump Gasket was one piece? With that timing Case Gasket, just get a genuine one, you will find it heaps better to work with, yes, it is a prick that gasket, and it will probably still leak afterwards, but just do the best you can to minimize those leaks. If you have done the headgasket and all you shouldn't need to pull the head off again, I didn't need to, I eventually got it all working for me again, and that was 2 weeks of non stop work though. You didn't replace the gasket tho, that requires engine out / k-frame dropped? I can't even see how you'd get some silicone between the block and sump. I think I'll have to undo all the bolts, and let it sit on the k-frame, and just do the bolts up. Going to tackle it again this weekend.. |
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Saga continues, got the timing case back on with help from a mate levering the sump down, ended up epoxing the lower guide on, and worked well. However, before the cover got on somehow my mate let the slack go, and it came off the lower crank sprocket and aux gear..
Set the timing back up, got the cam gear back on the cam, and it just looks a bit weird with possibly the cam gear timing mark almost 4-5mm above the head, instead of the allowable(?) 3mm...  I need to see more pics, of people's cam wheels timing mark; with tension on the chain too. I know the bottom gears are lined up. If at worst I can't see a problem with cutting the cable ties on the cam wheel, and rotating the cam 1 tooth to see if that looks better / closer to the 3mm I'm sure it was at before. |
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| fiftyone |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I've been doing a head gasket job on an ED, and when I cleaned the combustion chambers, I found this....explains why it was hydraulic locking and loosing 2 litres of coolant a week. I also found 7 cracked rockers, and 2 broken rocker shaft mounts!!!!! how the f**k did you do that?
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Same way I did, just snap no.3 intake valve, let it slip under ex. valve, and voila - 7 busted rockers
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| cjh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I've been doing a head gasket job on an ED, and when I cleaned the combustion chambers, I found this....explains why it was hydraulic locking and loosing 2 litres of coolant a week. I also found 7 cracked rockers, and 2 broken rocker shaft mounts!!!!! how the f**k did you do that? I didn't do that....I found it that way....from previous repairs from other people...I fixed it, with another head,and another set of rocker gear. It runs like a clock now.
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If my cam gear mark is about 5mm above the head, should the pistons and valves clear one another?
Would this mean it's 2'deg retarded? Will this shift power, or run like crap? |
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| cjh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: If my cam gear mark is about 5mm above the head, should the pistons and valves clear one another? Would this mean it's 2'deg retarded? Will this shift power, or run like crap? It means the timing is retarded......how much is machined off the head/block???? When cam timing is retarded, it comes in later.....advanced timing...comes in earlier.
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8-10thou off the head.
Pretty sure the valves will still clear then? |
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Still not done, other stuff going on previous weekends, and it's bloody raining this weekend here.
1/ Has anyone had this similar issue where the cam gear mark looks like 5mm above rather than 3mm? 2/ What's the tolerance in cam timing degree's before valves / pistons hit. Will mine have have suitable clearance? Hope to get this task done very soon.. |
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| misk_one |
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ive been having alot of cam/timing chain kind of issues lately.
apaprently my cam was around 10mm advanced lol i have had 40thou shaved off the head and the head has been shaved at least once in the past as there was a fresh head gasket under it when i pulled it off at the wreckers and also checked the tolerance with the marks on the head - so maybe 45-50 thou has been shaved, and cant remember if i checked the timing properly when i changed my head gasket, but it didnt cause any issues with that alone. i put in a wade cam last weekend and didnt set the tensioner properly, or something else went wrong, so yeah it was 10mm advanced, the car ran, but was just s**t. 2mm retarded shouldnt be an issue, but try to set everything as close as you can. if the timing mark on the balancer is correct (i doubted mine, but stuck a screw driver in the spark plug hole and made sure it was 100% correct. which it was) then maybe move it a tooth to see if it sets the timing right. here is a pic of mine set correctly (well i hope lol) and some pics that show you how to set it correctly. 
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Excellent pics. have seen the gregory's one before, and the cut away, so I knew how to make sure the crank and aux were lined up.
Mine is the same, but the cam mark is about 2mm higher than those pics. Dunno how it happened, my mate let the chain loose before the case went on, so had to relign it all, then put the case on. If I move it a tooth on the cam gear, am sure it will be 'more out' either adv or ret. It's about 10thou off head, and using a AU metal gasket. As long as my car will run that will be cool. |
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| misk_one |
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the car should run fine.
im worried about mine, i set the cam timing like above yesterday and today its got a huge miss. it could be the spark plug the got bent when i accidentally half threaded it lol kinda bent it up. but it could be my cam timing so far out that every cylinder has lots pressure  my batterys flat now, so will have to wait til later to find out. but in your case, you should be fine. if your 100% sure that timing is correct, then dont change it. but if you cbf, see if moving it one tooth will make it sit in the right position.
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Cheers man, we are so fkn close to finishing it, it's not funny.. I don't have enough functional lifters! So we didn't get the chance to crank it over. Everything is done, timing case, head, all belts/pulleys/fan/radiator/aircon parts.. Just gotta fit rocker gear, add oil, rocker cover, and my new battery, and finger's crossed... she starts, and sounds good!
Yeah, I figured there wasn't any point moving it because when you look at the tip of the gear teeth, they are a decent 10mm. After giving the block a 3rd and final clean this time with CRC Gasket Remover, and having refit the AU 3 layer metal gasket (this time with some Hylomar), torqueing the head on (not 80ft/pounds this time, yes new bolts) and fitting the tensioner, the cam timing mark appears to be spot on, and there is next to no play rocking the gears. The tensioner seems pretty tight, the guide is in the tensioner's groove and it's sprung. We can't really move this guide after trying to prod it with a massive flat blade, that sound ok? |
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| SpeedyED |
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{USERNAME} wrote: The tensioner seems pretty tight, the guide is in the tensioner's groove and it's sprung. We can't really move this guide after trying to prod it with a massive flat blade, that sound ok? That's good, you shouldn't be able to move that guide at all. Did you get it all up and running?
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