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| EL___Fairmont |
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mockxr6 wrote: ok thanks for all the info guys. here is where i stand. i tried nuetral and park. no difference, fuel pump primes and relays click.. power to red wire on starter and the little wire when the key is turned has none. if i bridge the starter it starts the car and the car runs for 30 seconds then shuts down. i have removed all relays under the bonnet and checked them with a multimeter, i have cleaned and tightened the battery terminals, checked all the fusible links and cleaned them, i have replaced all the fuses in the car with new ones, the relay for the smartlock has been replaced with new. i have removed and cleaned the smart lock, i have removed and cleaned the bem, i have left the ignition on for 30 mins then tryed to start the car and still nothing, i have put in a new battery still nothing, the central locking works off remote, the headlights, horn and indicators all work, the dash gauges and lights all work, the smart lock light flashes the same as it always did. once every 2 seconds, i have looked for the fault codes but there is none.. could this still be the smart lock? its basically the only thing i have not replaced.. the car just will not turn over at all off the key. If you need the car running urgently which you do!!!, Ign barrel might be stuffed... To get you out of the s**t you can get a push button switch with a relay and about 4m of wire and hook up a start swicth to the starter motor bypassing the ign side of the barrel or just bridge the red/blue wires on the BEM small connector..
_________________ Current ride 2007 |
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| comhelp |
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Age: 41 Posts: 638 Joined: 6th Nov 2004 Ride: 1994 Ford EF Fairmont Ghia Sedan Location: Melbourne |
+1 for the ignition barrel. Had to fix this on the old man's EF
Turned out that the retaining crimps had come loose. Pull off the steering wheel surround (Both top and bottom) and inspect the rear of the barrel. See if it is hanging loose. If it is, that is your problem. Just dont hold it with your fingers and try and crank it (Packs a mighty punch) enjoy
_________________ 1994 ford fairmont ghia - Currently 302 with T5 - Work in progress |
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| Gab1 |
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comhelp wrote: Just dont hold it with your fingers and try and crank it (Packs a mighty punch) enjoy A little off topic, but I fail to see how you got a zap from there, should only be 12V, not coil voltage? Gab |
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| comhelp |
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Age: 41 Posts: 638 Joined: 6th Nov 2004 Ride: 1994 Ford EF Fairmont Ghia Sedan Location: Melbourne |
Because of the Amperage going through it
_________________ 1994 ford fairmont ghia - Currently 302 with T5 - Work in progress |
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| TimmyA |
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But current doesn't follow without the potential...
I suppose the distance between contacts isn't much... If you had wet or sweaty hands your resistance isn't much for such a tiny amount of skin so maybe it is possible to get yourself a kick up the a**... Same case applies if you touch both battery terminals... The battery has heaps of current to pump out... If you touch both you get nothing (low voltage your high resistance)... if you had them so there was 5mm gap... touch the two with a licked finger... Yeah it may damn near blow your thumb off... Best not to try that one at home... 
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| mockxr6 |
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I fail to see how it could be my ignition barrel in this case, evrything works how it should, the ignition works in the other 2 stages (off and acc) and it wouldnt stop my car from running after 30 seconds either.
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| TimmyA |
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remember there is a smartlock board in the barrel too?
Its not just a simple barrel like the were once upon a time...
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| mockxr6 |
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ahh that i did not know..
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| TimmyA |
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there is a laser that bounce around inside of it... Thats how smartlock knows a different barrel... So maybe something in it has come adrift and sort of works but sort of doesn't...
We're just here for ideas man... Up to you to try them... Esp if you have spares handy to try things and see what gets you going...
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| mockxr6 |
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will give it a looksy when i gets home.. the other problem i have is a flat battery now and no way of charging it.. for all the tools i have in the shed a charger would be a good investment
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| TimmyA |
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or jumper leads if you have two cars or a mate... Although if the car stop starts it probably wont charge the battery real well anyway I guess? I don't own one, just borrow works on the odd occasion I need it...
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| mockxr6 |
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allright i bought a charger and charged the battery today. now when ignition is on everything is fine and dandy and as it should be. pulled the coloum shroud off and nothing has come adrift in there. when i turn the key to the start position power goes to the wire for the starter so at the ignition switch it is good. i started the car by bridging the starter and it ran for around 5 mins then i took it for a drive, then came home and turned it off. now being that i am the only one home i cant test if there is power going to the secondary wire on the starter( the little wire) the relay seems fine has power when it should and none when it shouldn't.. at this stage i am thinking the starter may be that cause of all my problems. i will try and get a starter tomorrow but untill then is there anything else i may have forgotten to try? there is obviously nothing wrong with the smartlock or i would not have been able to start the car so i am ruling this out???? i hope..
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| mockxr6 |
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ok ok i narrowed it down to no signal to the relay as the little red wire going to the starter has no power. if i plug my own wire in and run to power it starts. there is a signal coming from the the back of the barrel when i turn the key to start although it was getting dark and i cannot see the colour to trace it. so what has cuased this and how to repair? anyone else had the same prob?
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| EF_96_XR |
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With a test lamp, check that you are geting the crank signal in and out of the smart lock, there will be to red with blue trace wires, one is in and the other out, this is a comon problem! If you have the signal in and not out, try bridging the two wires together witha peice of 4mm wire, if this is the problem dont forget to solder the wires
_________________ 96 EF XR6 Factory 5 sp, currently in the middle of building a new motor |
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| mockxr6 |
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EF_96_XR wrote: With a test lamp, check that you are geting the crank signal in and out of the smart lock, there will be to red with blue trace wires, one is in and the other out, this is a comon problem! If you have the signal in and not out, try bridging the two wires together witha peice of 4mm wire, if this is the problem dont forget to solder the wires thanks mate i will give it a go in the AM. |
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