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Holbrookau |
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Quote: is it that big thing that has a nice big "not adjustable" stamped on it Yep
_________________ '94 EF GLI
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dsjoyce |
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C'mon guys humour me a little - which part of the engine bay is it located? What is it near/on/under? Pllleeeaaassseeee?
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Holbrookau |
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Hangs out the side of the engine, under the inlet manifold toward the front.
_________________ '94 EF GLI
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rushed |
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front passenger side, under intake manifold. its round, and has "not adjustable" on it.
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dsjoyce |
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Thanks guys, i'll take a look tomorrow! Any advice on how to go about cleaning it?
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dsjoyce |
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Also can i check its health with say a multimeter or something? What parameters would i be looking for? I should really go and get myself one of those workshop manuals!
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fairmont599 |
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Posts: 1135 Joined: 27th Oct 2005 |
not worth cleaning, just replace it that will be the only way to fix it.
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muncher2002 |
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with a dizzy when you replace it you make sure the roater button is pointing towards markings and engine is top dead center bla bla , how do i set one of these up , in the process of engine swap and i would like to any adjustments before the motor goes in ,
_________________ need a rotisserie for a classic resto 0471525912 Tom |
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Greenmachine |
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So are you wanting to set up a Dizzy (EA/EB/ED/EL) - or a cam phase sensor (EF/AU)??
If it's the phase sensor - I think that's what you do mean (Ford calls it a "Sychroniser") - here's the info direct from Ford EF workshop manual: 1. Position No.1 cyl at TDC firing stroke. 2. With locating pin fitted to the synchroniser, locate synchroniser in bore. Synchroniser should be oriented with locating pin pointing at the clamp bolt hole. Seat fully down by pressing gently on top of synchroniser while slightly rotating crankshaft back and forth. 3. Install clamp and retaining bolt. Torque to specification. 4. Turn the engine back and forth gently and observe movement of the synchroniser to ensure correct fitment. 5. Remove locating pin. 6. Install air intake duct. - gotta love the way they get you to move the engine while there's a pin stuck in the synchroniser shaft - I know the amount of movement is meant to not be enough to cause a problem but IMO it's still courting disaster - personally I'd use a pin but wriggle the synchroniser - NOT the engine (and WTF with moving the engine back and forth to observe synchroniser movement BEFORE removing the locating pin!!!). Also nice how they make no reference to refitting the sensor on top of the shaft unit and reconnecting the plug - just refit the air intake and then wonder what the flat round plastic thing is that's laying on the bench - and why there's a connector hanging loose... They also of course specify a Lichfield part number for the "locating pin".
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
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muncher2002 |
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cheers just what i needed to know , now to swap the harmonic balancer fit tranny lines and she will be good to go once the fluids are toped up , i showed some pictures of my old engine to a friend and he managed to describe it in one word "it grenaded" aka shrapnel everywhere AKA reason for swap
_________________ need a rotisserie for a classic resto 0471525912 Tom |
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muncher2002 |
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Thanks for the info again is it in now and running , re the reason tO gently rotate the engine back and forth is so the hex shaft between the oil pump and the cam angle sensor lines up , you have to put the CAS in so the plug faces the front of the car, the gear will move it in to the correct orientation and it will drop in to place
_________________ need a rotisserie for a classic resto 0471525912 Tom |
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