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| fal98con |
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Yeah that's what I was thinking but the smartlock led does not flash or stay on when attempting to start the car. Also hitting the dash while trying to crank didn't help so dunno about the bcm as it had never had trouble before.
Will runs a diagnostic test on it and also I might join the two starter motor wires at the bcm to disable smartlock from stopping the starter motor
_________________ R.I.P My red beast |
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| fal98con |
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I am pretty confused, ran diagnostic test and got code 111 on key on engine off (couldn't do engine on test as wont start)
I pulled the steering shroud off to make sure the connection on the back of the ignition barrel was all good but all looked good. I then decided to cut the starter motor wires at the bcm and joined them (the two red/ blue wires) and even this did not allow the car to crank? Any ideas on what it might be? I thought joining the starter wires would be a sure fix so I am at a loose at to what I could be? All fuses inside the cabin are fine, I checked all the ones in the engine bay and all appear to be sweet
_________________ R.I.P My red beast |
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| ranga83 |
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check your signal wire on the starter?
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| fal98con |
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As in the little one that clips on? That is all connected, I even changed starter motors to be sure so don't think that is the problem.
_________________ R.I.P My red beast |
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| ranga83 |
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yeah that one.
_________________ ef futura, pacemakers, 2.5inch catback, k&n panel filter and 3.45 lsd. extractors/cat, ticky head, custom cam grind, t5. now onto cosmetics. |
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| fal98con |
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Yeah it is all connected so not too sure at the moment
_________________ R.I.P My red beast |
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| snap0964 |
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fal98con wrote: Yeah I swapped the horn and the starter relays to see if it was the starter relay but that is fine. I was thinking it might be that but yeah I swapped the ecu back with the manual one just to check So how do you know ?? Horn operates okay with either relay ?? Pull the starter relay (rear most of the 4 relays), make sure car is in neutral, with a wire, jumper connections 30 and 87 on the base (see the relay case for connection nos) - do this momentarily, connections are live. Does the car kick over ??
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| fal98con |
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Yeah mate when I swapped them the horn still worked. I just did what you suggested and yes jumping pin 30 and 87 and the car did kick over. I am leading towards bcm or maybe ignition troubles.
A quick question, now that I have joined the Starter motor wires at them bcm if it was the bcm having troubles, joining these two wires would allow the car to start even of bcm was completely stuffed. Doesn't make sense to be the bcm though as it never had trouble with it before and just stopped and left me at the shops
_________________ R.I.P My red beast |
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| TROYMAN |
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Unfortunately electronic s**t can just fail randomly.
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| fal98con |
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Yeah I know. But wouldn't joining those wires like I did at the bcm start the car even if it was faulty bcm??
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| TROYMAN |
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If you mean the starter input and output wires to the bcm ..
Then yes. That will bypass the starter curcuit.. |
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| TROYMAN |
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If you mean the starter input and output wires to the bcm ..
Then yes. That will bypass the starter curcuit.. |
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| snap0964 |
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I think your problem is in the starter cct. If smartlock was playing up, you shouldn't be able to roll start, I doubt the ECU would be getting an Injector enable signal from smartlock if it was playing up.
fal98con wrote: Yeah mate when I swapped them the horn still worked. I just did what you suggested and yes jumping pin 30 and 87 and the car did kick over. I am leading towards bcm or maybe ignition troubles. Not ignition - car does start. BEM could be at fault - it could be the internal relay that enables the power to the start relay - but you've bypassed that, so I doubt that one.fal98con wrote: A quick question, now that I have joined the Starter motor wires at them bcm if it was the bcm having troubles, joining these two wires would allow the car to start even of bcm was completely stuffed. Return these wires back to the factory setup - band aid fixes never work long term. To test this after you do it - pull the CRT LP fuse, the starter should kick over, but not start. I'm guessing it won't.So now you need to go back to the starter relay socket (with relay removed), and check the two remaining connections - one is 12v from the ignition switch (via BEM) on the start position, the other is earth. Probably best to check with a 12v test light if you're on your own. It's a 50/50 guess, but I'll go with not getting 12v through on start.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| fal98con |
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Just an update guys.
I replaced the ignition barrel and Bem just to be sure it was either of these items. Nope no luck. Smart lock programmed to new ignition and Bem no worries but still won't start. I pulled the starter relay again and with the test light I tested the base of where the starter relay plugs in. I had power to pin 30 constantly (I believe this is correct to have), the only other terminal to light up was pin 85 (only when trying to turn the car over, once again I believe this to be correct) Any ideas or info would be great?? I just need the car to be able to start with the key! It starts and drives etc if I remove the starter relay and bridge pins 30 and 87 with a wire so I am at a loss!
_________________ R.I.P My red beast |
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| ranga83 |
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test and make sure you have power to the starter, also check to make sure you are getting a signal power down there when you turn the key to start. could be a dead starter
_________________ ef futura, pacemakers, 2.5inch catback, k&n panel filter and 3.45 lsd. extractors/cat, ticky head, custom cam grind, t5. now onto cosmetics. |
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