Ok guys i have decided to try and get really stuck into this car and try and sort out some of the "issues" with it.
It is a 1995 EF GLI with factory dual fuel. 6cyc auto

1. When running on LPG, it is not turning off the injectors so it is running both LPG AND petrol. This could be the wiring as i had to completly re-wire the AMS.

2. Runs mega rich on petrol when running on petrol.
- Have replaced the fuel pump
- Just changed the fuel filter as it had a leak.
- Changed the MAP sensor with about 4 or 5 different ones from wreckers.
- Cleaned and changed the ISC and TPS
All of these things did not change it all. Still running mega rich. When i unplug the vac hose for the MAP sensor, it helps it a bit but it is still running rich. I dont really want to spend the $130 odd to get a new MAP sensor if it is not going to fix it.

3. When turning the steering wheel, there is a high pitch squel like the wheel is rubbing against something but i cannot find it touching anything at all.

4. Transmission looks like it is leaking from around the inspection plate. Will this mean that there is a seal or something around there that needs to be replaced? or is that a complete changeover?

5. Is there a way to change to sump without removing the whole engine?

6. At random times whilst driving, I am getting an error 33. This comes and goes. The car does not have a passenger air bag. What do you think might be causing this and how to fix?

Thanks guys/girls

4. Sounds like the front seal in the transmisson or it could be oil from the rear main seal on the back of the engine, What colour oil is it, either way, the auto will have to be dropped for the seal to be changed

5. you can do it in the car, just undo the engine mount bolts and slowly with a engine crane lift it out till you have enough clearence to drop the sump on the k frame and do the seal

OR

Drop the k frame to do it, either way is upto you

The whole sump needs to be changed due to it having a major dent in it (from previous owner)

So the rear main seal can be changed whilst the engine is still in the car? Sounds like i might need to do that as well How easy are they to change?

rear main can be done while its still in the car. maybe the best thing to do is take the whole engine out and replace all the seals at once

I was afraid that you going to say that

your torque converter seal is stuffed. i had the same problem not to lond ago.

your best option is remove the trans and change the seal and give it a good clean and service. at the same time change the rear main seal and sump. you can remove it with out removing the motor, undo the mounts and lift it up with a hoist for more clearance

i think he has to remove the whole thing out as the sump is dented

yep

at least i dont need to do the head gasket as already done about a month ago

maybe undo the bell housing bolts and starter motor and engine mount bolts and lift it up, but not out of the bay, just enough to swap sumps over,

Its ok i will just rip the bugger out of there as the engine is pretty dirty

I was just hoping there was a simplier way of doing it

ok an update:

Ripped out the auto and now have a manual

found where the issue was with the auto and that was where the dipstick goes into the auto, the previous person had just siliconed it in there and it was broken

The issue with both fuels being used together will be fixed soon when i re-wire the AMS due to having to have it relocated as the clutch pedal is now where it used to be

But another to add to the list, get a new tailshaft the previous person has put an EA one in there

if it has an ea tailshaft, that will mean it has the ea diff or ea diff flange aswell

Quite possible. Well lets put it this way, my friend 5 year old was able to pick up the entire tailshaft. It is that light

that doesnt mean anything... the ef/el xr6 alloy tail shafts are lighter than the ea ones...

does the tailshaft have a round rear flange? or just the uni caps??
as ea has just the uni joint caps that bolt to the diff flange via 2 little hood like caps with 4 x1/4" bolts..
ed,ef,el ect have a round flange plate that bolts to the diff flange plate via 4 m10 bolts with nuts..

lol ok then thanks for that troyman, I must have the EF ones as it has the nuts and bolts

I just thought that it was WAY too light but i guess not

I seem to remember that my tailshaft that i had in my old ef was alot heavier