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| crsmith |
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I am going to do the head gasket on my EF
I have managed to get some metric fine bolts, not those stupid "torque to yield" jobbies that are standard. Got them through one of my mining suppliers so cost me nothing-grade 10.9 i believe. Anyway, I would doubt that these would use the same torque as the originals and a co-worker has suggested that they are useable but do require a different torque but didnt know as it was only anecdotal to him also. Can anyone help me before this weekend LOL? 
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
There is nothing wrong with the TTY bolts, and they are not the cause of gasket failures.
The cure is to use an AU gasket. if the gasket never fails again, there it no need to ever take the bolts out again. Good luck on guessing the needed torque for the bolts you have. |
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| crsmith |
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Not blaming gaskets or bolts-prefer these type of bolts and like I said got them for free. Missus old car on its last legs and doing it for the lad to learn to drive in without worrying about wrecking her good car LOL.
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| cjh |
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Acutally, the actual grade of the proper head bolts are 12.9.
The torque applied to the bolts are what make them " Torque To Yeild ". There are 2 places that a bolt is in when torqued.....the "Elastic" region and the "Plastic" region. When bolts are torqued, then angle turned ( ie 40Nm + 90*), that is taking the bolt into the Plastic region. There are some bolts that I tension up at work, they are an M30 thread, 10.9 bolt, 1st setting is 330 ft/lb, then 590 ft/lb, then + 90*......they are damn tight...would have to be near 1600 ft/lb. Torque turning a bolt is more acurate than just doing it to a set torque. As for head gasket problems.....it's mainly due to lack of coolant changes, and over heating due to faulty components like t'stats, blocked radiators, and the like.
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| cjh |
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Acutally, the actual grade of the proper head bolts are 12.9.
The torque applied to the bolts are what make them " Torque To Yeild ". There are 2 places that a bolt is in when torqued.....the "Elastic" region and the "Plastic" region. When bolts are torqued, then angle turned ( ie 40Nm + 90*), that is taking the bolt into the Plastic region. There are some bolts that I tension up at work, they are an M30 thread, 10.9 bolt, 1st setting is 330 ft/lb, then 590 ft/lb, then + 90*......they are damn tight...would have to be near 1600 ft/lb. Torque turning a bolt is more acurate than just doing it to a set torque. As for head gasket problems.....it's mainly due to lack of coolant changes, and over heating due to faulty components like t'stats, blocked radiators, and the like.
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| bry40l |
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crsmith wrote: Not blaming gaskets or bolts-prefer these type of bolts and like I said got them for free. Missus old car on its last legs and doing it for the lad to learn to drive in without worrying about wrecking her good car LOL. If you need tty headbolts over the weekend and cant buy them in time I have some spare new ones here I could sell you for the price I bought them new. I live near charlestown
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| crsmith |
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Thanks for the offer I may take you up on that. If these bolts are really that bad I will just use them for assembly and to get all the yucky stuff done like the intake manifold and put the proper bolts in later. Are these the later au type which are better like the AU gasket (doesn't matter) and how much?
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| cjh |
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The surface finish is really, really, really important when using an MLS gasket...if it is too fine, it will leak, if it is too coar5e, it will leak.....see the ACL instructions.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 Last edited by cjh on Sat Nov 17, 2012 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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| bry40l |
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Cant find a recipt for the price I payed, does anyone know what nason head bolts are worth?
_________________ BF XR6 Last edited by bry40l on Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| ranga83 |
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i just paid around the $40 mark about a month and a half ago
_________________ ef futura, pacemakers, 2.5inch catback, k&n panel filter and 3.45 lsd. extractors/cat, ticky head, custom cam grind, t5. now onto cosmetics. |
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| crsmith |
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Know about head gaskets-had a supposedly good silver monotorque type set in my 400 cleveland fail on break in for no good reason after a rebuild. A good set of (read different brand) worked a treat-with no issues since.seen them for 40bucks but also seen them for 90 also what do you remember?
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| cjh |
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crsmith wrote: Know about head gaskets-had a supposedly good silver monotorque type set in my 400 cleveland fail on break in for no good reason after a rebuild. A good set of (read different brand) worked a treat-with no issues since.seen them for 40bucks but also seen them for 90 also what do you remember? When breakin in an engine, don't use coolant, just water......saves money if there are leaks or overheating probs, and coolant won't let the head gaskets bond to the head & block.
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| Pakrat |
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Cjh I believe that is only the case when using a graphite compound gasket, if using a metal shim type you can run coolant right away.
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| cjh |
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Pakrat wrote: Cjh I believe that is only the case when using a graphite compound gasket, if using a metal shim type you can run coolant right away. See Q15 in this site...... http://www.acl.com.au/web/acl00056.nsf/ ... enDocument
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| cjh |
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With these facts in mind the recommended good practice should be:
Fill the cooling system with distilled water. Start engine, allow motor to reach normal operating temperature carry out standard engine adjustments/checks, test run vehicle. Stop engine. Allow engine to cool down until the radiator cap can be safely removed and add a good quality coolant (including inhibitor) according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
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