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| low_EF92 |
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hi all,
well, so far ive got a 2.5" zaust, cai and electronic shift kit. get me my bond money back next week and need to fix my head gasket. being as i,along with many others, has much coolant disapearing on the extractor side.. so i thought may aswell do the cam ive been thinking about while its out..(plan to do shims and springs ect.. aswell as o have 270k kms) my questions is anyone recommend any cams? not looking for something that will need tuning and head work but something decent  (just like everyone else i assume)thanks for any help low_ef |
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| ELboy |
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If you want your car to still have a nice factory feel, do not fit a wade regrind cam. I know everyone raves about them on this site but there rubbish. If your only after a mild power upgrade just fit EB XR6 cam and a good set of headers like pacemaker. But if you want decent power you will need a decent cam and stronger valve springs cam will need to be dialed in and you will need at least a chip with tune to suit new cam, gets expensive if your paying someone to do everything
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| Campbell18 |
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i through a wade 1636 in mine, it was meant to be a low budget mod but ended up setting me back close to $650 including fitting and a j3 tune on the dyno
its a decent improvement from the stock cam but i wouldn't recommend using it on a standard tune mine hunted and stalled for a few weeks and even after that all of my plugs were fowled because of the rich mixture
_________________ ED 4.0L auto... pacemaker PH4480, Aus Pac Catback exhaust, wade 1636 with j3 tune =130rwkw |
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| EL___Fairmont |
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Fit a low km AU engine
_________________ Current ride 2007 |
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| low_EF92 |
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how much are the j3 tunes.. i dont want to spend thousands but ^00 installed with a tune i couold probably do with, how muhch power did it add if you know??
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| Campbell18 |
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stock ED's float between 90 and 100rwkw according to the tuner
with a set of pacemakers, 2.5" catback and wade 1636 regrind mine did 115rwkw after an EL ECU and J3 tune i gained another 11rwkw, not to mention another 100k's in fuel consumption  all up i got 126rwkw but paying for a full dyno tune isnt exactly the cheap option It works out a touch cheaper if you get a dyno run done with an AFR print out and you send the info to TI performance. They can knock you up a chip for i think $200
_________________ ED 4.0L auto... pacemaker PH4480, Aus Pac Catback exhaust, wade 1636 with j3 tune =130rwkw |
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| SWC |
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Go with a CMS stage 2A cam, you don't need any chip, runs well with the stock ecu and is made to suit auto, though you will need a vernier gear set at around 2deg. Contact Joe on Cresent Motorsport, site sponser, and he will set you up with what you need. Prices are in his stage 2 A forum and I believe that exchange cam + Vernier Gear + Shims is $385, Cam alone is $185 exchange or $235 outright. All cams are regrinds so you will need to double shim.
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| low_EF92 |
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sorry to ask so many questions guys but may i ask why, we must double shim? wouldnt it make more sense to just replace the shims with the new ones? or is the aim to make the lift of the cam more effective? and in doing that wouldnt the old shimds be worn slightly uneven?
anyway, where could i go in brisbane area to get a stock ecu tuning for the wade cam? |
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| TROYMAN |
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low_EF92 wrote: sorry to ask so many questions guys but may i ask why, we must double shim? wouldnt it make more sense to just replace the shims with the new ones? or is the aim to make the lift of the cam more effective? and in doing that wouldnt the old shimds be worn slightly uneven? anyway, where could i go in brisbane area to get a stock ecu tuning for the wade cam? the double shim is to make up for what is removed from the std cam when it is re ground.. the shims dont normally wear, you just need to add another std set to the originals.. |
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| low_EF92 |
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so if i were to buy a new cam, not a regrind i dont need to double shim? just trying to undersand.
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| TROYMAN |
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low_EF92 wrote: so if i were to buy a new cam, not a regrind i dont need to double shim? just trying to undersand. thats correct... if you buy a brand new cam, known as a billet cam you dont need to add extra shims.. |
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| low_EF92 |
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TROYMAN wrote: low_EF92 wrote: so if i were to buy a new cam, not a regrind i dont need to double shim? just trying to undersand. thats correct... if you buy a brand new cam, known as a billet cam you dont need to add extra shims.. ahh i see thank you. =] now just have to choose which one i want. thinking the wade 1636 but unsure where to get a tune or how much |
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