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| bennomate |
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Gday all,
Just did a headgasket on my EF XR6, new cam while i was at it, wade 977b, no sure if thats relevent. Shaved head flat and another 20thou shaved off, with genuine AU gasket used. We noticed a chain guide was broken (the LHS pivoting one not the tensioner side), so we replaced that and put a new timing chain on it at the same time. Replaced all lifters too. However upon start up there is a bit of a ticking/rattle similar to but not lifter noise. Then when revving the car, once it reaches ~1750RPM there is a massive rattleing sort of noise, that i would imagine would be chain rattle, thats atleast what we guessed. Now the tensioner was a bit iffy to begin with but im pretty sure we got that right now, turn anticlockwise untill it starts almost turning itself once it stops then its tensioned. If you try and push the chain on the tensioner side there is almost no give. and same on the other side. So it feels fully tensioned. Ive done a search and had a read regarding the tensioner a fair bit but i cant find anything that seems to help so as a last resort i started a new thread. If anyone can help at all with this your advice would be greatly appreciated because its now the 8th day we have been trying to get the car back on the road and me and dad are going friggen mental trying to fix this. Cheers.
_________________ F6 Typhoon Silhouette with Dark Argent rims, build P0001. Stock as a rock and staying that way. |
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| EBXR8380 |
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What is the piston to valve clearance ??
Is the timing chain tensioner put back right ???
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| Krytox |
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did you put the tensioner relive valve back in ?
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| snap0964 |
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bennomate wrote: new cam while i was at it, wade 977b, no sure if thats relevent. Depends, was it running a billet cam before - If the cam is a regrind, did you fit another spacer with the lifter, along with the one that is already there ??
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| bennomate |
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EBXR8380 wrote: What is the piston to valve clearance ?? Is the timing chain tensioner put back right ??? Piston to valve clearance... lol i couldnt tell you, but i rotated it by hand and there was no restriction at all. Im pretty sure its far enough the head didnt get that much taken off. And like i said in my post im pretty sure that it was put right i followed the instructions on my book and cross referenced them with a few posts in this forum and the chain is under tension. snap0964 wrote: bennomate wrote: new cam while i was at it, wade 977b, no sure if thats relevent. Depends, was it running a billet cam before - If the cam is a regrind, did you fit another spacer with the lifter, along with the one that is already there ??Before it had the standard XR6 cam in it, the new cam is a regrind and we fitted an extra standard shim in the rockers. The (new) tappets sit firmly on the valves too. Krytox wrote: did you put the tensioner relive valve back in ? Hmm.. tensioner relief valve, i dont remember seeing that, thats mounted in the block where that O ring goes isnt it? Do you have any more info on this?
_________________ F6 Typhoon Silhouette with Dark Argent rims, build P0001. Stock as a rock and staying that way. |
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| efxr6wagon |
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IIRC the tensioner uses oil pressure to maintain tension. The spring in the tensioner isn't enough pressure at higher revs. The oil pressure relief valve sits in the block, sealed by an O-ring between the chain case and the block. From memory, it's a small cylindrical shape with a small hole in it, and one end is stepped. The stepped end is meant to be facing outwards (toward the timing case). I'm not sure what happens to oil pressure if it is put in the other way or if it is left out completely. But if the tensioner doesn't have enough oil pressure, it will almost certainly rattle as the revs go up. FWIW.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| Esteven8 |
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efxr6wagon wrote: IIRC the tensioner uses oil pressure to maintain tension. The spring in the tensioner isn't enough pressure at higher revs. The oil pressure relief valve sits in the block, sealed by an O-ring between the chain case and the block. From memory, it's a small cylindrical shape with a small hole in it, and one end is stepped. The stepped end is meant to be facing outwards (toward the timing case). I'm not sure what happens to oil pressure if it is put in the other way or if it is left out completely. But if the tensioner doesn't have enough oil pressure, it will almost certainly rattle as the revs go up. FWIW. Yes, it does use oil pressure as you described. I don't remember the specific details of how it goes in, but I'd very nearly put $$ on that being the cause of the rattle. My advice to the O.P., get a workshop manual and study the timing gear section. If I had mine handy I'd post the relevant details here for you, but unfortunately the Ex has 'borrowed' it for her car. Check out your local Public Library, sometimes you can get lucky and find the right manual there in the 'reference' section.
_________________ dc_todd wrote: Cheap pads squeal like cheap hookers, and you can take that to the bank. Au Fairmont Ghia My (Old) 95 EF Wagon |
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| Esteven8 |
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bennomate wrote: And like i said in my post im pretty sure that it was put right i followed the instructions on my book and cross referenced them with a few posts in this forum and the chain is under tension. Opppss  Guess I should read the thread a little more thoroughly before posting.  Still, some books can be more detailed than others so might be worth checking out anyway.
_________________ dc_todd wrote: Cheap pads squeal like cheap hookers, and you can take that to the bank. Au Fairmont Ghia My (Old) 95 EF Wagon |
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| comhelp |
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Age: 41 Posts: 638 Joined: 6th Nov 2004 Ride: 1994 Ford EF Fairmont Ghia Sedan Location: Melbourne |
Ok this is a quote from the ford workshop manual. Dont if it helps or not
Quote: TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER OIL PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE A pressure regulator ball valve is installed in the oil channel to the timing chain tensioner. It is located in the front face of the cylinder block. Should unaccountable chain noise be experienced it may be cause by failure of this valve. Removal 1. Remove the timing cover as described in this part. 2. Withdraw the valve from the block with a pencil magnet. Installation 1. Install the valve in the cylinder block, larger diameter (single central hole) first. 2. Install the timing cover as described in this part. Hope this helps.
_________________ 1994 ford fairmont ghia - Currently 302 with T5 - Work in progress |
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| Gab1 |
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This may sound silly, but I've had similar things happen when the bolt on the front of the camshaft, holding the cam sprocket to the camshaft hasnt been done up tight during re assembly, due to people forgetting to do it. Lucky the bolt didnt come out and make a mess of the front of the engine, I'd check that first.
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| bennomate |
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I ended up giving up after checking the valve so we took it to the mechanic and they said it was a faulty tensioner and that the problem is fixed. Now they said there is heaps of tappet noise and want to take out the extra shims i put in the rockers. They say its restricting oil flow, but i don't want to lose performance or my lumpy idle... this turned out to be way more complicated than it should have been. thanks for all the suggestions!
_________________ F6 Typhoon Silhouette with Dark Argent rims, build P0001. Stock as a rock and staying that way. |
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Cobalt blue EF XR6, Pacemaker 4499s, 2.5" redback catback, intake, head shaved, wade 977b, crow valve springs, pedders suspension.
