|
bruteutes |
|
||
|
hello all got a ef 95 it cranks over but won,t start. i,m thinking fuel problem.i can here the fuel pump primem when i turn the key on. if i put my hand over the thouttle body and crank it it fires and wants to run i take my hand off it stops any ideas
|
||
Top | |
alfy12 |
|
|||
|
Could be a number of things. Try for spark first by removing a plug and grounding it. Get someone to crank the engine and look for a bright spark that isn't orange in colour. A yellow/blue spark is prefered. Could be a crook fuel pump so a fuel pressure check and fuel quantity is advised. Should have approx 40psi of pressure and the vehicle should maintain the pressure for some time after you stop cranking. It could also be the smartlock stopping injection pulses reaching the injectors and hence no fuel to each cylinder.
I would suggest checking your fuses and fusable links as part of your fault finding. Good luck.
_________________ NF Fairlane: Non Factory Dual Fuel - New coolant tank, New fuel injectors, New fuel pump, New earth cable, ECU capacitors replaced, New O2 sensor, leads and plugs, New Radiator/Condensor cleaned. 483,000kms. AU I6 Powered. Struts, Shockies, Tie rods and ball joints replaced. |
|||
Top | |
bruteutes |
|
||
|
i think i found the problem the car was on gas and my brother only rain it on gas witch means all the fuel stuff has not been used for sometime. on the back of the fuel rail there is a fuel presser reg it has sezied shut not leting fuel in the rail. replaceing it today see if that works
|
||
Top | |
alfy12 |
|
|||
|
The fuel pressure regulator is normally on the return line to the tank and is controlled by vacuum from the intake manifold. Normally they require vacuum to open and held closed by a spring. You may have some crap caught in the regulator that is holding it open or deteriorated rubber seal. This would bleed away pressure that is required for the injectors. Normally you would expect approx 40psi of pressure with vacuum connected and slightly higher (5 to 10 psi higher) with vacuum disconnected.
Normally fuel is supplied from the fuel pump via the fuel filter to the fuel rail. Excess pressure and fuel volume is sent back to the tank via the pressure regulator. If you could tee in a pressure gauge to the fuel rail, you could check for fuel pressure and also check for bleed off after 15mins or so. A good fuel system should maintain this 40psi or so for hours after cranking. If your pressure bleeds off immediately, this would confirm that your regulator or non return valve in your fuel pump is stuffed. Your fuel pump supplies pressure well above what your system needs. It has its own return system for over pressure should it occur. I recently hooked my fuel pressure gauge up to my ford courier fuel line with no fuel rail connected (no tee peice, just fuel line directly into gauge) and this produced about 70psi and maintained this for a long time so I knew my pump and its return valve were good. As with all things fuel, do not work with a hot engine when disconnecting fuel lines. Wear eye protection when disconnected fuel components as they are under pressure. Preferably bleed of pressure by starting the engine with fuel pump fuse pulled but this may not be possible in your case as the car won't start. I often rap a cloth around the part that I am disconnecting thereby catching any fuel and not letting it spray around. Make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy just incase. Good Luck
_________________ NF Fairlane: Non Factory Dual Fuel - New coolant tank, New fuel injectors, New fuel pump, New earth cable, ECU capacitors replaced, New O2 sensor, leads and plugs, New Radiator/Condensor cleaned. 483,000kms. AU I6 Powered. Struts, Shockies, Tie rods and ball joints replaced. |
|||
Top | |
bruteutes |
|
||
|
hello again i got a whole mainafold off a fella that is wreaking one . i changed it over and i throught i had fix the problem went to start it and still no go but after ready what u wrote about the fuel reg when i toke the lines off the old one they where on backwoods if what u said is right. i will try that tomorrow and see how that goes and thanks for info any info is good
|
||
Top | |
EFford |
|
||
Age: 38 Posts: 75 Joined: 22nd Dec 2005 Ride: 95 EF XR8 & a 09 FG GT Location: Rockingham and Port Hedland |
so it cranks but won't fire (No spark)?? check the CAS, or crank angle sensor or also known as crank postition sensor on the front of the engine behind the harmonic ballancer/crank, and check all earth leads on the block, chassis, battery, because I had the exact same problem on my EF, took the car to auto spark in Rockingham, they charged me $980 and all it was, was a $6 earth lead corroded of the block, in the $980 process they sent the computer away for test, come back good, $80......replaced coil $140 and so on, all of which was fine!!! because I kept the old ones and used then in another car..., even so, check your coil pack too, even all fuses in under the dash, also your smart lock system, make sure it got a battery and that it remote on your keys controls the car locks, if not gently thump the BEM, the Body Control Module on the left hand side of you steering wheel, so when you sit in your car just inline with your left knee, just where the dash plastics start to go down ward under the dash, that small area there, give it a light but firm thump AS YOU CRANK the engine, if it starts then, you need to repair (Prefered) or replace the BEM.
try those things mate..... Aaron |
||
Top | |
bruteutes |
|
||
|
hello again it is fixed woooooooohhooooooo. the fella that my bro got the car off put a reco motor in it they must have put the fuel lines on the wrong way cause once i swaped them it started frist go .the car was on gas so i,m thinking that once they tryed to run on petrol and didn,t work they just rain it on gas. many thanks to all for info saved me lot of time and money and i am now a little bit wiser lol many thanks
|
||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 139 guests |