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| Benno The Viking |
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Ok, yesterday I polished and half-shafted my throttle body. I put it all back together but with a new gasket I made on my idle control solonoid. When I drove it this morning, it was in LHM, wouldn't go into top gear, idles at anywhere from 1000 - 1500 rpm etc.
I've got the battery off to reset the ECU (for 1+ hours I seem to recall?), made a thicker gasket for my idle control solonoid, and also cleaned it out. I'll see if that works but I'm just after some info if there's any other main culprits for this. The only things I can think of are: Broke wire to idle control solonoid Broken idle control solonoid (dunno why it should suddenly break after I took it off?) Leaking gasket ECU s**t a brick because I turned the key onto accesory while the throttle position sensor and idle control solonoid were disconnected. Cheers
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| EFFalcon |
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did you plug the TPS back in?
is the TPS on the throttle body properly? TPS is a major input to the auto, thats where i'd be looking.
_________________ FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw |
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| Benno The Viking |
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Yeah I double checked it, when I put it on I made certain it was on properly, but as you said, I'll check it again. One thing I did notice when I took it off, I wound it around a bit to check it was all good, and it didn't spring back as freely as it did the time before. Perhaps it's buggered, I'll check with the voltmeter. 3000rpm @100km is painful
 I unplugged the ISC and it stalled, so I assume it is at least working slightly?
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| TROYMAN |
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i would say your tps is buggered...
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| Benno The Viking |
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TROYMAN wrote: i would say your tps is buggered... Yeah, it seemed like I might have busted something inside of it when I turned it. I'm going to run the diagnostic test and see what's what.
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| Benno The Viking |
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Spot on guys, diag gave me a 122, which is TPS circuit low input, which can be caused by a ground in it where it shouldn't be IIRC. I guess I'll go pick up one from the wreckers...bugger. Might get 2 just in case.
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| Benno The Viking |
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I hate to be a pest, but has anyone had any luck from these from the wreckers? I'd assume if the car was running it'd be alright, I might grab a few if they aren't too expensive just to be on the safe side.
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| Benno The Viking |
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Cheers man. I took 2 off of our old EA (nifty setup on the CFI throttles, isn't it?) so I might just rig one of them up and see if it works. I will have to make a plug of some kind because I don't want to cut my loom.
Thanks heaps of all the help guys, I really appreciate it. 
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| snap0964 |
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Might be better to get one off an EA MPFI or later - don't know if the CFI one's have the same resistance range. EA/EBI's MPFI will have two piggybacked - grab both.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TROYMAN |
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if you can afford it, just buy a new one, put it on plug it in and its done...
otherwise a tps from eb2 and ed is the same as ef/el..... i wouldnt bother trying to get a cfi one to fit and work. |
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| Benno The Viking |
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snap0964 wrote: Might be better to get one off an EA MPFI or later - don't know if the CFI one's have the same resistance range. EA/EBI's MPFI will have two piggybacked - grab both. Yeah, the CFI I took it off has 2 stacked up, like how you see 2 variable resistors in the volume control of old stereos and amplifiers. Bugger if the CFI one doesn't work. I'll look in the Gregories manual and compare the values to mine. I'll probably just do as Troyman said and hunt a new one down, less dramas. Any idea why the CFI one needs 2? Because they both signal the same position as they are both on the same shaft?
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| Gab1 |
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Benno The Viking wrote: snap0964 wrote: Might be better to get one off an EA MPFI or later - don't know if the CFI one's have the same resistance range. EA/EBI's MPFI will have two piggybacked - grab both. Yeah, the CFI I took it off has 2 stacked up, like how you see 2 variable resistors in the volume control of old stereos and amplifiers. Bugger if the CFI one doesn't work. I'll look in the Gregories manual and compare the values to mine. I'll probably just do as Troyman said and hunt a new one down, less dramas. Any idea why the CFI one needs 2? Because they both signal the same position as they are both on the same shaft? One sends a signal to the engine ECU, and the other sends a signal to the automatic transmission controller (TCM) Theese are seperate modules on the EA and do not talk to each other. Gab |
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| snap0964 |
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Looks like the CFI specs are the same, but as mentioned, get an EBII or later one, 2nd hand, and be done with it.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Benno The Viking |
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Gab1 wrote: One sends a signal to the engine ECU, and the other sends a signal to the automatic transmission controller (TCM) Theese are seperate modules on the EA and do not talk to each other. Gab I thought it must have been a case of something like that. snap0964 wrote: Looks like the CFI specs are the same, but as mentioned, get an EBII or later one, 2nd hand, and be done with it. Yeah, the CFI bolt holes are different, and that brings in the other issue of the axis not lining up exactly with the end of the shaft etc. I've gotta go into town anyway so I'll get one. Thanks for all the help guys.
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| Waggin |
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I generally have found the TPS units to be reliable from the wreckers. That said, last time I was too lazy to go to the wreckers and just grabbed a new cheap one from eBay - it works great (so far)!
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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