Bought a new lead from coil to dizzy and still no go. This only leaves Dizzy and ECU, so i grabbed a Bosch dizzy today and will have a crack at installing it tomorrow night. Thank you all for you contributions:) Ill keep you posted

If is a second hand one, you'd wanna test it before going to all the trouble of pulling s**t apart.

To do so, just pull the TFI lead off your dizzy.. Plug it into your new one.. Ground the body of the dizzy (like touch the end of the shaft to the car body or metal aircon hoses) and turn the shaft by hand and if you hear injectors fire, you know its sending a signal to the ECU and the ECU is doing its thing. Obviously car needs to be on accessories for this to work.

By the way, when you changed the TFI originally, how did you get the dizzy back on the right timing. Did you just put the dizzy in about the place it came from?

I was going to refrain from giving this example, but I will..

Back in the days of having my EL, I was d**k around with the dizzy cap and leads.. Shut the bonnet and went inside.

Came out to go for dinner and car wouldnt start.. Spent 10 mins looking into it, tracing back what I did, and found the little d**k from the middle of the dizzy cap was missing.

Being cold and late, I thought I'd ring RACV for help.. Spoke to the nice lady, told her the problem... Said I'd need someone with a new dizzy cap.. She said no problem..

Van rolled up. Told him the problem and he goes "nah mate, your ECU is f**k.. Or the ECU on the side of the dizzy is f**k.. Can't help ya, tow it to Ford tomorrow"... I explained again, explaining I need a new cap.. He just repeated the same.. "Happens all the time.. Get it towed to Ford, get em to replace dizzy and ECU.. Gonna be expensive tho.." Asked him if he had a spare cap, I'd pay no problems. He said "Yeah, but your ECU is f**k, cap won't help" So I worked out he wasn't going to help, signed his papaer and sent him on his way.

Then took cap off, went into garage and found a scrap of round metal that fit the hole in the middle of the dizzy. Cut it to length, put it all back in.. And WTF, the car starts.. I get my dinner and 3 days later replace the cap.

Over dinner I rang RACV to put a complaint in. Bloke took my details, commented it was a contractor and this kind of shoddy work always came from them as they are paid by the job. So they get in and out very quickly.

So stories of 5 or 6 years piloting RACV vans dont impress. And its this kind of logic, the logic you are using to solve the problem, which I have problems with. What was a $14 problem could have cost me $1200, and still wouldn't have fixed it.

I managed to get the tfi off without moving the dizzy at all. It was a complete pain in the a**. I dont understand why Ford like to make easy jobs so hard by placing things in places with minimal access.

lol.. How the f**k u do that...

If the dizzy is in the factory spot, it is impossible to remove the TFI without potentially damaging it, cos it hits the block before the pins are 1/2 out.

You'd have to bend the pins to get the old one out and getting the new one in.. Again, you'd have to bend s**t. Possibly even miss the plugs inside the dizzy itself.

Dizzy has to be turned so the TFI is parallel to the block to get it out.

i have replaced the dizzy modual on ea- eb without taking out the dizzy loosen of the 13mm bolt and that holds the pressure bracket in place lift the dizzy slightly and turnand lift (dont take it righ out) the dizzy utill can gat to the screws just remember when pluging in the new modual have the cap off and keep pressure on yhe back of the wires so they connect properly,replace cap, tighten distributor pressure bracket after putting int diognostic mode and doing the timing

Last edited by fairmont54 on Wed Dec 02, 2009 6:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

also for reference just on monday i had a el that would wind over but had no spark by,accident knocked the wiper switch with the ignition on and no wipers, one of the pins on the main igniton loom pushed back when it got pluged it in turn over time caused a bad conaction , cleaned and held the back of the plug firmly when pluging in and fixes the problem, but also the actual barell can stuff up were the wires are fixed to the back of it

What a wanker you are, & you sure as hell should'nt be a moderator, were they desperately short of people when you got the gig ?. You use terms like the unlearned with your boyfriend (that would be you madxf, & you with your pip signals & noid lights, & no I don't give a flying f**k what you do for a living. Though I suspect if I were to meet arm79 in person as soon as he opened his big mouth I'd see your head, could you get any further up him ?.) & you arm 79 should inform madxf that your so far up yourself there's no room for anyone else. Know these things back to front & yet cant perform a basic service procedure without damaging components LMAO. & who do you call? funny that you got a wood duck that knows less than you. & it sounds like the RACV dude could'nt wait to get away from you either. I wish I'd got that call & I could have shown you what an idiot you really are at the time. Your qualifications came screaming through-none-. I'll share this with you not for your information, but to show you how inept you are. & btw its called a carbon rod not a d**k, that would be you. & the emergency substitute when they are lost is the lead from a black lead pencil, not a piece of metal, you really need to get over yourself. Everybodys marching out of time except you right?. When removing a distributor cap from an injected Ford 6, if the motor is rotated to T.D.C. No. 1 Firing (I know I wont have to tell you how to find T.D.C. coz you'll have a better method than mine) then this exposes the short side of the rotor to the outside of the engine giving you much more room to remove the cap & far less chance of displacing the carbon rod, especially important with a broadband manifold, I knew this when you were about 10. Fix things mechanics cant, what a joke I would'nt give you a pushbike. Like I said, your all about pushing you own agenda & not solving the problem at hand. & if you want to get on with someone famously its probably a good idea not to reply to a post with "thats kind of a no derr" your imagined superiority oozes out in every word you type, please tell some more stories & share more of your mechanical stupidity I could do with the laugh. Cheers Shaun.

And in defense of 'cheap' aftermarket distributors, if you don't like them, don't use them. But you would have to admit if nothing else, that since their release they have made the price of the Bosch unit fall drastically, thats got to be a good thing.

Holy s**t mate, forget your pills or something? That was quite a rant.

You are the one that came in here and arced up unnecessarily over the help that was being given in this thread. You obviously objected to our diagnosis method, but we were simply trying to help this guy out so he didnt have to spend more money.

If you had read the first post, instead of being blinded by the red mist over your objection to what was already put forward, you would have seen that the coil had already been replaced. That's why no-one was suggesting that it be replaced again.


Are you suggesting that you never made a mistake when you were an apprentice? Wow you must be the greatest mechanic ever seen.
How many more personal insults do you want to try to get into your responses?


I vote yours and our responses are deleted from this thread. They are of absolutely no help to anyone that finds this thread in the future through the search feature.

You are as clueless as your friend, & with an ego nearly as big, & fairly much the same agenda. Dont worry about about getting things deleted here as useless, did you know about putting the engine at T.D.C. to help with the removal of the dizzy cap ?. & if it was'nt written here you still would'nt know. I'm off to the Administrator to have this whole thing looked into anyway, you & your friend obviously have a problem with mechanics, & at the risk of sounding juvenile, I did'nt start this slagging match. I on the other hand am sick & tired of qualified nothings that always know better than the mechanic, then make judgements that they are'nt qualified to make. & don't worry about my medication, the dosage is perfect. I'm just tired of taking crap form fools. Have a nice day

i would never use an aftermarket dizzy again..
the last one i had chewed the aux shaft out and pretty much ruined a good engine..
due to the fact that the dizzy gear was machined/cast or drilled off centre.. and the chopper wheel also rotated off centre which was giving the car a surging symptom and an unstable ignition timing..
so for months, so called qualified mechanics could not diagnose the problem they kept doing the trial and error scenario, replace this,now replace that, so hundreds of dollars later it was made apparent when it was to late,
so imo a genuine dizzy was well worth the money..

Ta.. I've been called worse... I didn't realised you cared that much.



If that is the extent of the information you have been able to bring or suggest to the OP to help solve his problem from all the posts in this thread, I again bow to you.



Knock yourself out. Its a public forum with differing opinions. What do you expect them to do? Cry for you?

Maybe the Admins could look into your account as a duplicate. Some of the things you say, the way you "type" and your email address reminds me of someone long banned from this forum.

And please don't take any further replies from me as a win on your part. The CBF factor in trying to decipher your posts is pretty high. I got lost after the second line of your rant. Plus they offer no input on the OP's problem, just a stack of insults that woulde struggle to make Mother Theresa blush from embarassment.

Have a good day yourself.

Clueless, I think not, but I know my limitations. Where is my ego? And what agenda?

I didnt know about that tip to set the engine to TDC firing to remove the cap. I've never had a problem getting the cap off in the first place.

The initial problem was your objection to trying to determine for certain that it was in fact the dizzy (hall sensor) causing the problem by using the fuel pump as an indicator. We were all trying to do the same thing and basically suggesting the same thing, but you wouldn't get off about using the Fuel pump or injectors as indicators for the problem.

Qualified nothing? No worries. Are logic and common sense qualifications?

To me, if any thing, the only person discrediting mechanics here is our mate Shaun. Ranting and raving like a looney, but far from assisting in rectifying the problem.

He might be a good mechanic, might know everything there is to know, but so far isn't making a good impression.