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| the_scotsman |
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Ok, so about 50,000 kms ago, I replaced the headkgasket in the old girl.
Now it's leaking again...coolant leaking down behind the exhaust manifold and hints of oil in the coolant. I suspect it's due to me giving it a bit of a flogging recently Last time I replaced it, I only used a standard EL gasket. This time I want to use the equivalent METAL gasket. Which one should I be looking for? I had a look on ebay, not sure if any of the ones on there are metal, they dont look like it. If I go to Repco or similar, do I ask for an AU gasket? Or EL? If AU, which year/model do I ask for? And I assume I also need to use AU head bolts if I use the AU gasket? |
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| phongus |
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Before you plan on pulling apart the engine, is the car an auto? If it is, the radiator might be busted leaking some transmission coolant into the coolant bottle. Also water leaking from the exhaust could also be from Welsh plugs.
AU gaskets can be bought from Ford, not sure if you can get aftermaket MLS ones since I never really had a look. Just ask for an AU head gasket...if you ask for an EL one they will probably give you a composite as per computer. You will need new head bolts, either EL or AU ones will do...if you buy from Ford, I think they only sell the AU bolts, which will fit just fine. The only difference between the head gasket when installing is torque requirements. Since AU ones are thinner, the bolts will be on a bit tighter. Giving it a flogging every now and then shouldn't really kill the head gasket...unless you've been doing it while it is cold or even with low coolant. When you pull the head back out, get the head rechecked as you should but also the block, make sure it is flat. Good luck with that. phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| gogetta |
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mine was done 4 years ago and has travelled 120,000+ with no probs....used a regular gaskit too...
longevity has little to do with the gaskit and all to do with quality workmanship....head needs to be checked thoroughly for corrosion, cracks, hardness (very important), straightness then surfaced properly...deck needs to cleaned, checked for straightness and corrosion....new head bolts are a must and correct torquing sequence followed....cooling system must be kept in top condition, lack of inhibitor leads to bad and rapid corrosion... by all means use a quality gaskit, but it doesnt HAVE to be a MLS
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| snap0964 |
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the_scotsman wrote: Now it's leaking again...coolant leaking down behind the exhaust manifold and hints of oil in the coolant. Was this similar to the first time, Dave.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| the_scotsman |
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snap0964 wrote: the_scotsman wrote: Now it's leaking again...coolant leaking down behind the exhaust manifold and hints of oil in the coolant. Was this similar to the first time, Dave.Hey Ray...haven't seen you for a while...I haven't been on the forums in ages. Yea similar to the last time...different spot though...I've given the car a bit of a flogging recently...more than I probably should have...I suspect that may not have helped. I knew I should have gone the metal gasket first time round. Just need to make sure I get a metal one this time...hence why I was asking which one I need to get. gogetta wrote: mine was done 4 years ago and has travelled 120,000+ with no probs....used a regular gaskit too... longevity has little to do with the gaskit and all to do with quality workmanship....head needs to be checked thoroughly for corrosion, cracks, hardness (very important), straightness then surfaced properly...deck needs to cleaned, checked for straightness and corrosion....new head bolts are a must and correct torquing sequence followed....cooling system must be kept in top condition, lack of inhibitor leads to bad and rapid corrosion... by all means use a quality gaskit, but it doesnt HAVE to be a MLS Yea I'm quite confident I did a thorough job last time...made sure everything was 100% before putting it back together. |
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| xfpaul |
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repco etc only do compisite and copper, you need the au mls from ford
_________________ NC2 Fairlane AU2 Intech 4.0 Wolf V500 ECU Accel 500cc Injectors Eaton M90 Blower MPx Porting 75mm Mustang TB Intercooler Holley 255lph EL XR6 Rear End 3.45 LSD Duel Fuel lots more. |
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| Slick |
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Get the head machined then do a proper tightening of the head with new bolts. also tighten it in the proper sequence and re-tighten it a couple of thousand k's when the bolts have stretched.
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| the_scotsman |
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Slick wrote: Get the head machined then do a proper tightening of the head with new bolts. also tighten it in the proper sequence and re-tighten it a couple of thousand k's when the bolts have stretched. Did all that last time (except retighten after a few thousand k's...didn't realise that was something that was a good idea to do). |
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| snap0964 |
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the_scotsman wrote: Yea similar to the last time...different spot though...I've given the car a bit of a flogging recently...more than I probably should have...I suspect that may not have helped. I knew I should have gone the metal gasket first time round. Just need to make sure I get a metal one this time...hence why I was asking which one I need to get. Yes, it's been a while. Agree with the comments on prep work mentioned in this thread - this is even more important if you use an MLS gasket. This may've had a bearing on this reoccurence.I'd say check VERY closely how the water ports clean up on the exhaust side of the head after machining - as mentioned, if badly corroded, there's not too much distance to the block side. And of course, check the block surface very thoroughly as well. I used a Durapro gasket and bolts from Everlast (Flinders) - nearly 3 yrs on, no probs. My original cause was a fatigued headbolt sheared off. Be a good opportunity to ditch the hybrid head and go for an earlier head  .EDIT: Slick wrote: re-tighten it a couple of thousand k's when the bolts have stretched. the_scotsman wrote: Did all that last time (except retighten after a few thousand k's...didn't realise that was something that was a good idea to do). It's an absolute bad idea - these headbolts are TTY - torque to yield.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| the_scotsman |
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Yea...trust me, I made very sure everything was perfect before doing it last time...I know the importance of everything needing to be spot on.
There's no corrosion on the head at all, it's tip top. I also checked the block face for any warping/defects and it was also 100%. So the Durapro wasn't an MLS? lol...not enough cash to go changing heads...whats the benefits of having a non-hybrid head anyways? Apart from finding an aftermarket cam? snap0964 wrote: EDIT: Slick wrote: re-tighten it a couple of thousand k's when the bolts have stretched. the_scotsman wrote: Did all that last time (except retighten after a few thousand k's...didn't realise that was something that was a good idea to do). It's an absolute bad idea - these headbolts are TTY - torque to yield. Yea that's the impression I was under...not to touch them once they're torqued up as they're TTY. |
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| snap0964 |
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the_scotsman wrote: So the Durapro wasn't an MLS? Nah, just composite. Everlast went over to them as there were a lot of issues with the monotorques.the_scotsman wrote: lol...not enough cash to go changing heads...whats the benefits of having a non-hybrid head anyways? Apart from finding an aftermarket cam?  the_scotsman wrote: Yea that's the impression I was under...not to touch them once they're torqued up as they're TTY. Retorquing will most likely cause them to fatigue over time. If the specs that come with bolts said to do it, then we'd all be doing it - if you buy your bolts from a reconditioner/machine shop, simply ask them, and I think you'll get the same reply.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| the_scotsman |
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snap0964 wrote: Nah, just composite. Everlast went over to them as there were a lot of issues with the monotorques. I'm sure that's what is in mine atm..Monotorque You don't have any spare Fairmont clusters lying around do you?  I'm toying with putting one in the XR6...asked about one in the wrecking thread in the For Sale forum, but he doesn't seem to be terribly helpful with replying. There's another on eBay, but they dont have the plugs or sensors or anything. |
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| Slick |
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Thats funny, I did it the old school way and it never broke. lol
Those god damn TTY. they're just a money grab agreement between ford and who ever so you'll end up spending money over time. Go USA man. order your costume made bolts from there instead.
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| snap0964 |
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Just look for the usual blue sealing lines on the Monotorque gaskets.
I take it you mean the Fairlane clusters - unfortunately the two I had are in both cars now  .I can get all the sensors, and you can make the two LH plugs out of std plugs. You can change the Eprom (just like I can) - shimstock is the easiest and safest method.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| the_scotsman |
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snap0964 wrote: Just look for the usual blue sealing lines on the Monotorque gaskets. I take it you mean the Fairlane clusters - unfortunately the two I had are in both cars now .I can get all the sensors, and you can make the two LH plugs out of std plugs. Yea, sorry meant the Fairlane. Well if you know a source for sensors, tha makes it a little easier. LH plugs? As in left hand side plugs, since they are different? snap0964 wrote: You can change the Eprom (just like I can) - shimstock is the easiest and safest method. Yea, changing the Eprom is something I should manage ok. WHat do you mean by shimstock? Last edited by the_scotsman on Sun Aug 16, 2009 12:57 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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