I'll start from the beginning...

I bought an EL XR6 6 months ago and it would crank for quite a while (about 20-30 seconds) sometimes before it would start and I found if it didn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking stopping and re trying it would start straight away, it also ran rich at idle and if i revved it in neutral it would blow back smoke. If you start from a stand still and put your foot to the floor it would splutter a bit and then go. Once it was off the line it goes well.

The the distributor failed so I replaced the rotor, cap, coil and tft module with brand new ones as well as the plugs, O2 sensor, leads, inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets and fitted AU injectors which came out of a running car. This fixed the faulty distributor issue but it still runs the same as before it failed. Today I took the throttle body and ICV off and cleaned them as they were both quite dirty and it now starts first pop off the key but still runs rich and splutters on take off. I've checked all the vacuum hoses and they don't look to have any leaks.

Has anyone else had similar issues or can point me in another direction of diagnoses.

Thanks

Check your Map sensor and the vac line going to it.

I've just changed the Map sensor and line going to it with one from another running car, i've checked the manifold bolts as well and they're tight, I also put a brand new set of plugs in it and it's made no difference. I've also checked the TPS voltages and they were 0.7v closed and 4v WOT.

Start spraying aerostart around the intake gaskets to check for leaks.


Have you reset the ECU since replacing all the parts?

Had the same problem the last couple of days, run so rich it wouldnt idle or drive at 50k smoothly also was lacking alot of power. disconnected battery for 4hrs and re connected and seems to have cleared up, the 15min drive home didnt have a single miss, the same drive this morning i didnt think i was going to get to work!

Are these ecus known to do this?

i also have a t.i chip in ecu

Follow the supplied instructions to ensure your J3 port is clean of corrosion and reinstall the chip.

Cheers,
Jason

the chip has been in there for years, havent had a single problem until now, but could be anything. not saying its the chip but i will check the connection if i have any other probs, seems to be ok after ecu reset

I've done that, it also has a new gasket. No leaks. I left the ecu disconnected for 24 hours as I took the back off it last night to check for any signs of water or corrosion and it looked good inside. I also tried another ECU in it tonight and it didn't make any difference.

have you tried another fuel pressure regulator?

Vacuum leaks can be notoriously hard to detect. You need to spray Brakleen or Aerostart or similar heavily and slowly along every mm of hose and gasket join. It took me three attempts to find a cracked intake manifold gasket. Also, if you have a leak in the membrane in your brake booster, it will be sucking air from inside the passenger compartment under the dash, so you would never find the leak in the engine bay.

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator 2 weeks ago and after a short drive it had improved a lot. It was much more responsive to rev in neutral and the stutter when accelerating from a stop was much better. I'd say 95% gone compared to before. But yesterday the issue was back again just as bad as before.

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator 2 weeks ago and after a short drive it had improved a lot. It was much more responsive to rev in neutral and the stutter when accelerating from a stop was much better. I'd say 95% gone compared to before. But yesterday the issue was back again just as bad as before.

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator 2 weeks ago and after a short drive it had improved a lot. It was much more responsive to rev in neutral and the stutter when accelerating from a stop was much better. I'd say 95% gone compared to before. But yesterday the issue was back again just as bad as before.