i was at the motorshow on saturday and one of the stands was for ewp water pumps which are electric.

they caught my attention as something that might be worth doing.

has any one fitted or looked at fitting one on to an ef 6 cylinder?
im guessing there might be some work to make it happen just tought id gauge how much and the diffuculty.

thanks heaps.

COULD HAVE ASKED THE VENDOR-----google search

it was more an information thing with leaflets. i cant recall wether there was someone there or not.

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_ ... ntent.aspx -google

I asked some questions about them a couple weeks ago.
The answers that I got were theyre more suited to track cars or weekend cruisers rather than daily drivers because of their proneness to f**k up.

cheers that was all i was really after thanks

No worries. Could be wrong but this bloke seemed to know his s**t.

I was really interested in going with an EWP when they first came out - but apart from reliability concerns, I also wasn't happy with the way the supplied "kit" was supposed to operate - ie. from memory the options were thermoswitch on/off at a fixed temp or alternatively a more "sophisticated" controller that varied the pump speed according to temperature - in both cases the thermostat was removed.

For a start, IMO removing the thermostat is just plain dumb (the thermostat essentially controls the cooling system FLOW - the pump simply provides a head of circulation force) - I figure the reason was that the EWP is maybe less tolerant of churning against resistance than the normal engine pump (ie. it's more of a pressure pump than simple circulation device) - ie. being a centrifugal type with relatively large clearances the std pump can just thrash until the thermostat begins to open without building to a particularly high maximum pressure. Evidently the idea is that the electric pump can come on only when the temp is high enough - ie. with same result as a thermostat - but in service reports seemed to indicate that temperatures tended to fluctuate quite seriously all over the shop - ridiculously with the simple thermoswitch setup (predictably enough) but still quite bad with the electronic variable controller - so evidently it was all flawed somehow - like I say, thermostat being removed was probably the heart of the issue - at the very least it needs to be replaced with a restrictor of some sort. It's also / alternately possible the electronic controller doesn't actually provide very good variable speed "resolution" too - ie. keep in mind that with the std pump and thermostat there's SOME flow as soon as the thermostat begins to open - even sooner if it has the little bleed hole. Hell, it's possible the electronic controller's "operating temp" speed setting was just too high - anyone who's tried running an engine without a thermostat has learned that TOO MUCH flow can actually result in poor cooling. Using the Basic control setup where the EWP is off until a certain temperature is definitely dumb.

Also I couldn't quite see how the heater circuit could work properly when the water return was effectively made to be downstream of the pump rather than upstream... - which possibly explained reports of heater hoses blowing...

In the end I figured an EWP itself would be worth a try (holding breath for reliability) - but I would have to modify a new water pump - ie. seal the hot water pipe hole and ideally also remove the impeller - altho only the water pipe hole closure would be really NECESSARY - then also modify the water pipe so that it could be connected via hose and Tee fitting to be just upstream of the EWP. I would have to leave the thermostat in place or replace it with a restrictor that allowed similar flow to the thermostat in it's fully open position and then set up the fan control to be a simple two speed arrangement such that it ran at a very slow speed mode below a certain temp and then stepped up to a higher "operating speed" mode once a certain temp was reached - ie. I suppose coinciding with the thermostat coming open.

I wasn't sure if the "operating speed" could just be flat out or would need to be a lower speed sufficient to do the job thru full range of loads and temps - or if maybe even the Davies electronic controller could be used at that point.

Some way of knowing AS SOON as the EWP isn't flowing would be essential too - ie. maybe a pressure switch downstream of the pump.

I looked into it myself, but there's a story going around that made me way nervous. Apparently, Autospeed tested the EWP early on, but couldn't report what they found, as Davies-Craig threatened to sue the pants off them if they did.

Now, Autospeed might have been testing the EWP badly, giving an unrealistic or unfair result. And it was years ago, so even if it was a real issue at the time, it has probably been fixed since then. But I asked Davies-Craig about it, and they refused to answer - so what am I supposed to think? You would think they would be eager to explain the situation and put that issue to bed once and for all. Draw your own conclusions. Maybe they read Fordmods - I'm sure we would love to see their response here.

The original Autospeed EWP test article has been removed, but there have been several letters about it:

http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_2010/article.html

http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_2429/article.html

http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_2521/article.html

http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_2593/article.html

http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_2829/article.html

http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_2908/article.html

http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_2982/article.html

One letter writer reports being a satisfied purchaser of the EWP, so it can't be all bad.

thts unfortunate that davies craig would go to those lenths must of been very critical of them then. a guy at work was saying his brother fitted one to his escort not sure what yoear or anything he went through 3 pumps in a matter of mothns but this was when they were reletively new to the market.