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| Crazie Chili |
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Hi guys,
My motor has come back from the shop and have tried to refit some accesories with minimal luck. (Rain...limited time...etc) The engine now is sitting in the car, without the intake or anything else on that side of the motor. My options im looking at are taking the car to a shop to have them fit the accesories back in along with the Dizzy being my main problem. I just don't possess enough know how unfortunately and yet so close to having her back on the road again! Is there anybody out there who has done this before who is willing to be of assisstance in the near future to get her running again or am I best to look at taking her to a shop? Cheers Daniel |
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| Froudey |
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Don't quote me but there is a procedure in putting the dizzy in so it "clicks" into place so all the teeth align etc. Search Distributer or Dizzy installation to help speed up getting the motor back together.
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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| Crazie Chili |
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Sounds the goods, I will give it a try the next opportunity i have to see the car, as its parked at a mates place. Makes it touch difficult but I'll keep posted when I give it a shot.
Is anyone able to say from experience how hard it is to fit the intake whilst the motor is in the engine bay? I know it wasn't too difficult whilst it was out, just curious how im going to get to the bolts at the front of the motor this time round, its all aa game of tetris any way  Cheers guys Daniel |
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| Shortshift |
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If you've got a log manifold, it's difficult due to lack of space under the manifold. With a BBM, it's easier. You'll need to remove the clamp & bolt, cap, rotor button and cover to remove the distributor. Make sure you don't have the top radiator hose installed so you've got room to move. Use a 5/16" socket on a 1/4" drive & handle to rotate the oil pump shaft the distributor fits onto. Do you know approx. what position the TFI is supposed to be at?
I've just been through this drama a dozen times trying to get the TFI in the correct position (under a BBM) to allow adjustments.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| Crazie Chili |
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Unfortunately yes I do have the log manifold, it's an EB2 xr6 i should have mentioned that earlier
 Im unsure of what the TFI is, are you talking about the electronic bits built into the bottom half of the distributor underneath the rotor button ?From what I gather, at the bottom of the distributor shaft on the engine, your saying to stick the 5/16 socket down in there and turn the oil pump itself? This is the first time I've done something this mechanically minded just have to make sure i understand you  Cheers Daniel |
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| Shortshift |
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Crazie Chili wrote: Unfortunately yes I do have the log manifold, it's an EB2 xr6 i should have mentioned that earlier Im unsure of what the TFI is, are you talking about the electronic bits built into the bottom half of the distributor underneath the rotor button ?The TFI is the plastic fitting on the side of the distributor that has a 'rectangular' shaped socket to connect the electrical wiring. Crazie Chili wrote: From what I gather, at the bottom of the distributor shaft on the engine, your saying to stick the 5/16 socket down in there and turn the oil pump itself? This is the first time I've done something this mechanically minded just have to make sure i understand you Yes. I found that the distibutor only sits flush with the block in 2 positions (180 degrees apart), unlike distributors in older cars. This seems to be due to the way the hexagonal oil pump shaft is shaped. (Thanks to other Fordmods members for providing the info.)
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| BenJ |
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Also note that when the Dizzy does click in, it is possible that it can be one or two teeth out making the timing either advanced or retarded.
Do you have a Gregories? or similar manual. If not, you should. All this info is available in these sorts of manuals. BenJ
_________________ BenJ's EB T5 DOHC Ghia Wagon - Current Ride |
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| Crazie Chili |
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BenJ wrote: Also note that when the Dizzy does click in, it is possible that it can be one or two teeth out making the timing either advanced or retarded. Do you have a Gregories? or similar manual. If not, you should. All this info is available in these sorts of manuals. BenJ Thank you for the help, just for confirmation's sake, the dizzy is now sitting straight on the "finish" line, with the motor lined up at TDC on the HB, rotating the engine helped it click in nicely! She's almost running again, smaller things such as AC, radiator, leads and misc. things left over to fit, should be good to go this weekend Ps. Is anyone able to advise me if there is a procedure to starting up the motor, ie having no lubrication upon first start up. Is it ok to crank over and let the motor prime itself up?? |
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| Shortshift |
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Remove the spark plugs before cranking. This allows the motor to turn without resistance while the oil is being drawn through into the oil pump & filter. Keep cranking the engine for about 10 seconds after the oil light goes off on the dash. Now it's ready to start up.
What oil are you using? It should be a mineral based oil if you're running in new rings & bearings.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| Crazie Chili |
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Shortshift wrote: Remove the spark plugs before cranking. This allows the motor to turn without resistance while the oil is being drawn through into the oil pump & filter. Keep cranking the engine for about 10 seconds after the oil light goes off on the dash. Now it's ready to start up. What oil are you using? It should be a mineral based oil if you're running in new rings & bearings. Perfect, Thank you, always a few things unknown first time around doing this sort of thing. The oil I asked for was a "running in" oil to the store clerk, he provided me with a mono 30 type oil. Not 100 percent but if I recall correctly, it is valvoline brand. Will this meet the needs for running all the new rings etc? |
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| Shortshift |
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Yes, the Valvoline Mono 30 oil is what I'm using at the moment to run my new engine in. I tried getting the Penrite Running In Oil, but it wasn't readily available. Bursons apparently sell their own ruuning in oil. After reading many articles on breaking in engines, I've settled on the method used by Puma Race Engines.
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm You have a limited time to bed in the rings.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| Crazie Chili |
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Definately a very debated topic, that does sound the goods though. Thanks again for all the help, hopefully my timing stays okay and when the time comes to load her up it doesn't ping lol
Cheers guys! Daniel. |
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