|
| Locko90 |
|
||
|
I got me car road worthied today and the guy that did it adjusted the hand break by Takin both rear wheels off, anyway driving the car today the breaks where stuffing up a bit where the car wasn't breaking and the break failer light was coming on. That has stopped now though brakes seem to be ok now. But there was the clunking noise when reversing a bit then driving forward. And also the rear mags get super hot when taking for a quick drive.
So jacked the back wheel up and it's a fairly hard to rotate it by hand. It shouldn't be hard to rotate it right? Should move pretty freely? So my question is should I back the hand break off a bit or should I just let it wear in ? And also could this have caused any damage to the diff or rotors ? Pretty p****d about this. Car was fine until this idiot had to do this and charge me more money as well  Any ways what do yas reckon? |
||
| Top | |
||
| EAfalconS |
|
|||
|
Sounds like he over adjusted it.
 If you can back it off, you should do it before something warps, or worse, catches fire.
_________________ EA falcon(S-Pac) AU engine and injector's, EL BBM conversion,K&N pod,EL ECU,T5 5speed,EL Streering rack, EL Brake system, Extractor's 2 1/2in high flow cat, through 2 1/2in mandrel bent pipe with Lukey Performance muffler |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
This thread will give you some guidance on what to check: post1435093.html
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Locko90 |
|
||
|
Thanks a lot for the info guys! Can't believe this guy went and done it over tight!! I hope it hasn't done any damage to anything. Bit worried about the clunking noise. I was just thinking with the brakes getting so hot would that heat damage anything else, or should be ok?
Well I'll get the wheels off tomorrow and try free them up. hopefully she's all good! |
||
| Top | |
||
| Locko90 |
|
||
|
So today i got the guy to come back and he backed the hand break off. Its way lose now. And the problem is still there!! Both rear mags are getting so hot! Im thinking the calipers arnt retracting properly and the pads are rubbing.
Any ideas on what could be going on here ? |
||
| Top | |
||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
Probably loosened the primary cable at the handle, without adjusting the park brake shoes in the rear discs.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Locko90 |
|
||
|
The hand break is loose as now man. I took one rear wheel off just before and took caliper off, I lubed the sliders, but the piston is really hard to push back in it does go back in but takes some effort
So when I put the caliper and pads back on I pushed the brakes and piston comes out but dose the retract. Is there any way I can free up the piston ? Not sure.. should it be retracting by its self? or is there a spring that should push the piston back in ? |
||
| Top | |
||
| Locko90 |
|
||
|
Oh nah man the guy backed the handbrake off by adjusting the rear wheel things. I watched him take off each wheel and do it. Handbrake is way lose now I don't even engage until it's about 4 clicks up.
I'm pretty sure it's the break Pistons not retracting. |
||
| Top | |
||
| SWC |
|
||
|
The piston has nothing to do with the handbrake. It is for the rear discs only.
Handbrake is by the handbrake shoes on the inner casing of the rear disc. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Locko90 |
|
||
|
Yeah Fair enough bro hand break has nothing to with the piston.
I'm pretty sure it's not the hand brake that's dragging now? Cuz while rolling forward hand break doesn't even start slowing the car until it's about half way up. I'm guessing that the brakes are dragging, the brake pads are fairly thin and when I wedged the piston back in wheel spun fine.. Then I pumped the brakes piston had came out but wheel was hard to spin so I'm thinking it's the piston not retracting and still keeping the brakes on a bit. Should I try taking the piston out of the caliper and giving it a clean ? Or would it easier just to replace the caliper.? Maybe new brake pads will fix it cuz the piston isn't coming out as far ? Can I push the piston out by pumping the brake pedal and remove dust seal on piston and see if the piston is rusty and clean it with brake cleaner then clean it up not sure if dust seal can be pulled out though. I'm going to get new brake pads today. |
||
| Top | |
||
| SWC |
|
||
|
Check your slide pins to ensure that they havn't siezed up.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| EBXR8380 |
|
|||
|
Maybe new brake bads ? If worn low they could be binding .. Bleed brakes ..
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Locko90 |
|
||
|
Problem has sorta stopped now. I just took the caliper a off and pushed the piston all the way in and then Pumped the brakes pushing it in and out a few times it started to free up now piston is retracting better. I got new pads and I'll be putting them on when I get a chance. But yeah rear wheels arent get so hot anymore
 I think cuz the car had been sitting awhile the break Pistons had got a bit Siezed. Anyway she all good now the engine running beautifully great car to drive. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 48 guests |
