Nah mate --- You just use the quote button. When you're writing your message there's a bit at the bottom that says "PREVIEW". Try clicking it, and you'll see what your message really does look like...



Good stuff on this thread mate... Click here for a bit of discussion about similar things...

What tools/bits did you use for this?
How do you get each port the same?
Do you reckon anyone with a steady hand could have a go?

Anyone with a steady hand and a bit of basic knowledge of porting could give this a go IMO, but i reckon patience is the key, takes a lot of time to get everything on each cylinder matching, especially when you start reshaping chambers and cutting back, and reshaping the short side radius etc so theres always a lot of measuring involved. Read up on some porting books, articles, or even some porting threads from here and other forums, they might be a bit different but in the end the concepts are basically the same.

You'd need some sort of good air grinder or electric die grinder which will work fine too, preferably something with a longer shaft so you can really get into the ports. With the grinder its a good idea to have some sort of regulator (some grinders have built in reg's) to keep the speeds not too fast and not too slow if you get what i mean, its alloy so its easy to take too much off and clog up the bits. You'll need an assortment of grinding stones, carbide bits if you are doing a lot of cutting/reshaping and other bits like flapper wheels, sanding rolls etc for smoothing/polishing etc. With the head im working on i use a bit of WD-40 to lubricate the alloy to lessen the amount of alloy clogging up the bits when grinding

Madxf:
start here.

ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/your-diy-porting-bible-t82450.html

These are the basic tools I used, I started of using a air driven die grinder but it drove me and my neighbours mad so I ended up using a cordless drill, worked good. To get in further to the port I used a spade bit extension, ground down the grub screws so they didn't stick out and put heat shrink over the end so not to damage the seats, the heat shrink just slips back to change bits, to gain more control use a piece of rag over the extension shaft and hold on with your hand. The carbide bits I got off E-Bay for around $10 each I wouldn't use them on cast iron but for alloy they do alright, what KWIKXR wrote about the WD40 works well. The best of the lot is the spiral bands, once you get the basic shape with the carbide bits you can shape the last 10% with these, they give a nice even finish and smooth out any bumps. The funny looking looking thing at the bottom of the picture is my own invention, a 6mm piece of rod with a 15mm hacksaw cut in one end, you slide a piece of 40 grit emery cloth into the slot and it gives a spot on finish to intake ports again covered the shaft in heat shrink.
The measuring tools i used are the inside calipers and the digital vernier, a lot of measuring in the bowl area is done off the valve guide a lot of it is done by site and feel and also some cardboard templates, this one is for the intake short radius the black line is is approx where the original turn was.

 

 

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it's very obvious by your short turn template as to why you picked up so much flow.....