the coolant temp sensor you mean? ill change it again just to be sure...

but how could it be the problem?? i didnt expect the colant temp sensor to be able to have that much effect?

Take it to Ford and let us know what they find

then what is the point of this forum? lol

because if my intention was to take it to ford or a reputable mechanic, then i wouldve done so from the beginning.. but that would just be a spend of money and no knowledge/experience gained. my intention here is to gain knowledge and learn new things.. spraying around money to solve things in life is easy, but earning knowledge/experience is priceless..

but it seems, as things are, the fordmods veterans out there are just cbf in helping. i came to this forums to learn stuff from all the professionals here but things just seem so dead and plain. i know theyre probably reading all this and following on, and know exactly whats going on and the solution too, but ive been at square 1 for how many days and now im just totally over it cos no ones giving input. no professional help, no advice, no one gives a damn..

but i really appreciate your help here, creeture. thanks alot.

ill probably just set the car alight and burn the damn thing and give up. not gna make those selfish mechanics rich either

You're sure it's an engine problem and not a transmission issue? If it's happening in the same car with two different engines...

its an engine problem because the transmission on my EL has been changed and is also from an AU. also, when i manage to somehow drop the revs really low in Neutral (500-750rpm), and rev it up, it still does it there too.

it does it in D, N or P between 500-1000rpm. basically during takeoff on rapid kickdown (WOT)

Sometimes, someone else who has had more experience than others, has the answer. A lot of the ppl on this forum, including me, are simply experienced amateurs. There are, thank goodness, a few who are experienced Ford mechanics, and they are invaluable. But like the rest of us, they too are busy sometimes. Even the best of us doesn't know everything

I have had a good experience from here:

http://www.justanswer.com/car/

The mechanics here sorted out a couple of problems for me that had me absolutely stumped, and for a very reasonable cost as well, and they answer swiftly, not in a few days, but in a few hours. Worth a try.

Wow! What a puzzle! Let's think this through, and correct me if I get it wrong.

It's giving the error code for "engine always running lean", and the hesitation on sudden throttle opening is consistent with that, so let's assume it's a fuel issue. You have replaced the O2 sensor and swapped ECUs, so the ECU should be able to compensate for a lean condition by richening the fuel trims. But fuel trims can adjust only so far (not sure how much), so this implies that you are getting a LOT less fuel than the engine needs. You have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter and have swapped injectors. I can see only two possible fuel system issues left: fuel pressure regulator failure or weak fuel pump earth connection. Did you keep the same fuel rail when you swapped engines?

Another possibility is suggested by your spark plugs being black and getting black condensation out your tailpipe: these indicate TOO MUCH or UNBURNT fuel. And being over-rich also can cause a stumble on acceleration. The oxygen sensor does just what it says - measure oxygen in the exhaust. If you are getting incomplete combustion for whatever reason, you get left over oxygen AND unburnt fuel in the exhaust. Incomplete combustion can be caused by a weak coil or spark plug leads, or by significantly retarded ignition. It could also be caused by being seriously over-rich, but then you would see clouds of black exhaust smoke every time you step on it. I might have missed it, but I can't see where you have swapped in a different ignition coil. Worth a try.

Hope this helps.

hi creeture, Ill check out that site, I just hope a mechanic from Aus will show up, not one from the US. Cos i want the guy to know about my car lol thanks anyway

efxr6wagon: i have done a vacuum test and got 22inHg, so yeah, it cannot be an Air intake problem... so with the air part ruled out, I m thinking its gotta be fuel too. but i changed over all fuel related parts from the EF, even the fuel pressure regulator. i listened to injectors clicking and they click nicely too.. both fuel pumps performed well, so I cant blame them either. yes i think i kept the same fuel rail because the bbm wasnt changed, the EL bbm has to be used during the conversion, thus the fuel rail. ive had au injectors before the conversion and wanted to blame them, but when i put the good condition EF's one, it still done it.

I have also set the timing right and also changed ignition coil over a few times, (when the problem first occured, I chnged it twice, and then I changed it again last month when I took the car to the car wash and the engine failed when I washed the engine bay) problem was always there, so the car wash didnt cause it.

what can cause it to run always lean? and what can cause it to have too much unburnt fuel (running rich)?
the last test i done, only showed 172: lea. it didnt show the running rich code, idk why

If you've never swapped the fuel pressure regulator, it's worth trying. If the pressure is too low for the fuel trims to compensate, you will run constantly lean.

A misfire - however caused - will tend to appear lean to the O2 sensor, as there will be oxygen left over.

I,m pretty sure that the bloke I chatted with was Oz, but I can't be sure. If they don't have an answer, they will tell you, and probably not charge

i swapped the fuel pressure regulator, a few times too. swapped it with a 275kPa standard falcon one, and then with another 300kPa from my EF at the back yard. still done it.


if fordmods cant fix it, nobody can. lol

any ideas guys?

i swapped the fuel pressure regulator, a few times too. swapped it with a 275kPa standard falcon one, and then with another 300kPa from my EF at the back yard. still done it.


if fordmods cant fix it, nobody can. lol

any ideas guys?

Had exactly the same problem, AU VCT into NL, changed everything, could only come to the conclusion that it was fuel/ecu related as it was duel fuel & didn't hesitate on LPG on wot off idle.

what type/brand of hego did you replace the original one with? I've seen cheaper ones perform very poorly with crap resolution and slow to graph correctly. Also, check out your TPS, swap it out with a known good one,new one. The hego can be a bit on the expensive side for a good quality NTK one, but after mucking about with cheaper variants, NTK all the way.

whats to condition of the dizzy like? is the rotor button worn or showing signs of misfiring?
Are you running the correct plugs?
Do you have a burnt valve?
Whats compression like across all 6 cylinders?
Have you lifted the head off it? If so are you sire you did not skip a tooth on reinstall advancing or retarding the cam?

Otherwise, page1 TLDR, Page 2, decided to chime in.

@ghia 97: i wish i had lpg, at least i wouldve found something to blame lol. after doing anything and everything possible and still not being able to find a solution, im upset.

@johnson stroker: i replaced the hego with the one from the EF Ghia which was running almost perfectly with no hesitation on acceleration. i can check the brand, but it was working perfectly on the other car (it didnt cause a hesitation on acceleration on the EF ghia). If money permits, ill buy an NTK one but after I've fixed this hesitation issue.

swapped the tps two times.

the dizzy, looks pretty clean. maybe I should change the dizzy? because it made the same problem with my older engine, and the dizzy was used in the AU engine swap. its one of the only original things left from the conversion and one of the only things untouched by my troubleshooting. that and the coolant temp sensor and IAT sensor were untouched till now.

yes, i bought new plugs only a month old. ngk zrgb something something. i even swapped them over with the ones on my EF (no hesitation issues) leads are champion brand.

no burn valve, it doesnt do it at any other rpm. only during takeoff.

compression was good because it was the one i chose from ebay and had the highest compresion (between 185 and 200). i never lifted the head off it, its an AU1 XR6 engine fitted by SCRAP auto recyclers. they just took the EL engine out and put the AU engine in. later on i put in an AU transmission too. the car had this hesitation since it had the old EL engine.

please read my posts, cos ive written a list of the stuff i done and changed. i also did base timing, base idle, and vacuum test.