Gents and Grease monkeys....

I thought I knew my falcon well but she always comes up with some surprises.
Went to start the car after a short trips to the shops. Engine would turn but none of the cylinders fired. So I thought there goes the induction coil and/or the TFI module. So I called the tow truck and had it towed back home.
Started fault finding and discovered that there was a 45kV spark on each of the plugs!. So my assumptions were all wrong.
I got a noid light and tested the fuel injectors, and they were fine too.
So I removed the clip from the fuel hose that feeds the rail and bingo! NO FUEL.


I checked all the fuses and they were all ok

I put my hand on the second relay (the green one)_ under the coolant tank and sure enough, it clicked when I turned the engine.


So I figured that it must be the fuel pump. Now the fuel filter was replaced 2 years ago and it looks new whereas the pump seems to be original.

The pump in the wagon is under the tank about 12 inches from the left rear wheel.

Has anyone ever tried removing it? It seems like there is a large metal clip which needs to be removed and it seems fragile!

I also looked for new pumps online but I get conflicting information: does anyone know how to tell which is the correct pump for the wagon ED?
have I missed something in my diagnostics ?:roll:

Last edited by brik32544 on Tue Sep 25, 2018 7:48 am, edited 2 times in total.

the pump is in the tank not under it if it's a standard tank. to remove you do need to undo that metal 'clip' making sure that the gasket behind the base plate doesn't get damaged. if you have a fair bit of petrol in the tank you will need to siphon it out first coz when you remove the clip holding the pump base plate in place, you will have a gusher!. now as to the replacement fuel pump . . . . . . the EA wagooon tank i have here uses a sedan pump, however the EL i just wrecked used a specific wagooon pump. the EA tank has the pump flat where as the EL has the pump upright due to a baffle. i cannot say which you will need as i don't know.

this is the one i used in the EA tank using the elbow pipe that was with original pump.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/282630818240?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649


this one appears to do either sedan/wagooon, but i have not used it.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bosch-Electric-In-Tank-Fuel-Pump-With-Parts-BFP472-F-005-X11-472-fits-Fairmont-5-/153133690239?hash=item23a77aad7f

hope that helps you out. also ... next time only ask the question once not four times.


Cheers

Mad 2 Thank you!!!!

That clip seems a challenge. It is covered in mud etc but it looks like one of those clips that has folded ears which may snap when you unfold them
I will have a better look this morning and get some water and a toothbrush on it. None of the fuel pump kits include the seal or the clip...wish they did!

It baffled me that the pump went dead without any notice. I am also surprised it has not been placed outside the tank. I guess they did not want this to be a roadside repair!

The Bosch Electric In-Tank Fuel Pump that you sent the link of, seems fantastic. It has both the angled and straight connector for the filter sock. It also seems to fit my ED.
The tank is 1/4 full so I guess I have max 20-30 Litres.

I will now disassemble the pump and keep you posted.




PS I want to apologise for having posted multiple messages... I was getting a hanging screen each time I submitted and did not realise that the newer messages were below the more important messages....sorry

Well, I have finally removed the fuel pump. Yes it is an absolute pain to remove. Later I will document with photos how I have managed to remove the pump. Hopefully it will help another Ford die-hard.

NOTE for all Falcon enthusiasts, the WAGON fuel pump removal IS NOT the same as the SEDAN pump removal. The former is more difficult because of accessibility.

The circular metal ring fastener that holds the pump assembly to the tank would require a special tool, however with a bit of patience you can use a use a hammer to gently tap a screwdriver or a 10mm closed spanner.

The rubber gasket that seals the tank should probably be replaced but I noticed it sells for around $60.. So I will try and make my own.

As I removed the pump I noticed that the sock (the filter bag that fits on the pump's inlet) was damaged and broken. So if you replace the pump it is wise to replace the fuel filter as well. I have ordered mine today.

As I removed the petrol I also noticed black gunk at the bottom of the 40 litre container. Seems like pieces of a rubber seal....

of course it's not ...... but it's 'similar'. the EA was piiss easy to remove & it "slides out" so to speak, where as the EL i removed was a pitta due to it being upright & tank baffle behind it ... and i lost the filter too!

Just a short update.

In the wagon Ed the pump sits vertically inside the tank. The inlet is on the bottom and the outlet is at the top connected to a rubber hose to the steel pipe that exits the pump assembly.

I pulled the VDO pump apart thinking that it would have seized from the muck that would have been sucked up through the broken filter sleeve. Not so! The pump did seize but the culprit was a tiny copper piece (about 1 mm x 0.5 mm) that had chipped off the copper shaft of the rotor where the brushes connect and fallen vertically into the pump gear.
Let me say that the original VDO pump is nothing short of an engineering marvel! The quality is exceptional! I should be getting the replacement today (Chinese?) but I think I will order an original VDO because of the fantastic design and manufacture. Replacing the pump is a real pain on the ED wagon so I want the pump to last.

Would you have immersed a motor in a petrol tank? The motor is immersed in petrol which also acts as a coolant and lubricant. When the pump seized the motor was still under load but would not turn. I guess the engineers have worked out that there is no chance sparks could have caused an explosion of the tank.
Personally I would prefer to see all electrical components OUT OF THE tank.

Maybe a good mod would be to install an external pump just behind the filter. I wonder if any of you have done this.

Time to document how to install a fuel pump on a falcon Ed WAGON. It is more complicated than a sedan and the pump is also different. It has a 90° kink on the pump outlet, whereas the sedan is straight.
I started downloading the photos and it will not allow photos larger than 500kb.... what a disappointment!

and don't forget the external cover over it! .... everyone used to use photobucket . . till photobucket started charging people for that! & yes i was one of em


most forums have a limit of pics [not like fb], so either 'shrink' said pics or try & get someone to host em. i use google photo's currently & i believe there are others around somewhere.........

Thanks for the tips Mad2! I am using IMGUR..it is excellent and FREE!

Let's start again. I will do this set of instructions as time allows, so don't be surprised if you see only part of the instructions at first. It may take some days to complete.

TOOLS REQUIRED
TOW TRUCK If your pump has given up on the road, bad luck! You can't replace it road side.
Fire extinguisher: you are meddling with fuel and fuel vapour!
protective goggles
protective gloves
10mm socket wrench to remove the protection plate
car jack
10 bricks or anything that will stop the rear of the vehicle falling on you if the jack fails.If you have ramps, use those.
low wide 40 l bucket
hand fluid-pump: to transfer the fuel from the bucket to the jerry cans. I got one for under $10 from ALDI. The problem is that they come in only twice a year or so.Otherwise go to Repco and hand them over your wallet...
Jerry cans to store the fuel in the tank. If you have a full tank remember you will need 5 20L jerry cans.
Fuel pump: on ebay about $40 to $200. If you have money to spare you can go to SuperCheap Auto or Repco. They will sell you the Chinese made components for 3 times the price you can get them on ebay. The original is made by VDO and is nothing short of an engineering masterpiece. You can get them for around $150 online and up to $400 if you find a store supplier.
Fuel filter Z373: they are cheap to buy online. They are all made in China, so I bought the cheapest for $7.
Rubber seal: You can buy it online for $70(robbery!) or make your own. Measurements are 78mm OD 68mm ID and 4mm thickness. You may be able to reuse the original seal but think about it. If you have a leak you need to empty the tank! That should be incentive to have one ready before you start the job.

OPTIONAL:
Special home made tool: This is not mandatory but I will show you how to make one with 60cm of 1/4" mild steel rod. It takes 30 minutes to make with normal "man cave" tools.



Bend the tips BEFORE you make the 10mm square grooves (about 3 to 4 mm deep). The groove has to be right on the bend and can be carved with a simple square file. Thwe groove MUST be square with no rounded edges.


If you have a choice, change the pump when the warning light is on.
Ensure the car is on a level floor and that the brakes are set. place one brick in front of the front wheels and one behind. ENSURE THE CAR WILL NOT MOVE as you jack it or work underneath it.

Open the fuel cap to release any pressure
Once the back of the wagon is raised and secured, remove the protective plate which is in front of the fuel pump housing.

In this photo the fuel tank access has been washed with some diesel fuel and a brush
Don't try to remove the electrical (blue) connections
Place the bucket in a position so the fuel will not drip on the floor when you GENTLY remove the plate
and it starts gushing out.
Note that the two quick release fuel lines. The white one is on top and the black one is below it. Don't interchange them.
Don't try to remove them with pliers etc, you will DAMAGE them and they are expensive to replace. Just press the white plastic coupling towards the black hose and pull the hose away.. Fuel will start dribbling.
Do the same to the black coupling
Now apply the special tool to the the two lugs on the circular metal plate retainer and twist counterclockwise slowly. You want to loosen it NOT remove it. This will disengage the locking mechanism and the metal cap which presses the rubber seal on the tank mounting. Fuel should start to flow. Jiggle it until you get a small flow. I would not advise allowing the fuel to gush out.

As the bucket fills use the transfer pump to transfer the fuel to the jerry cans via a fine fine mesh filter that will blocks most impurities.
You will get a considerable amount of gunk coming out of the tank. Good opportunity to clean it.


Removing the assembly is fiddly. It also contains the fuel float. Pull it out and twist towards the front of car.

Last edited by brik32544 on Wed Oct 17, 2018 11:22 am, edited 5 times in total.

what's that tool for?

i bought a seal for less than your $

I had difficulty sourcing a seal. There are plenty of seals for the sedans but not for the wagon.

This is the one I found
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-EA-EB-ED-EF-EL-Wagon-Fuel-pump-sender-to-tank-seal-ED9276B-NEW/112235638383?epid=1750150463&hash=item1a21c3ee6f:g:3J4AAOSwA3dYT43A:rk:9:pf:0

But I will not part with $70 for a piece of circular rubber.

UPDATE: Today another seal came on the market. It is a 9 day AUCTION ebay sale with a starting price of $28.. give me a break!!


The tool is to remove the cover plate that holds the fuel assembly. It has two diametrically opposite lugs which are in a cluttered space.
The tool is optional as you can use a hammer and a screwdriver to VERY GENTLY tap the ring counter clock wise to remove the assembly. The tool applies a good balanced torque on both lugs which can help maintain a better seal and minimise damage to the gasket. When you use this tool you feel the plate engaging and disengaging correctly. It is not a screw in type fitting which you can tighten until the rubber is too compressed. It has and ON/OFF type engagement on the tank.

is what it looks like.

That's the item.
I'm in the same predicament - both my wagons need that seal done eventually.

What I was going to do was make a mock up tank section to fit a pump to, use sikaflex
(if it's fuel resistant)and make moulds - ensure you lightly oil/grease mating sections so
everything comes apart.
That's as far as my thinking takes me currently.