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| Valen |
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FREEKING VACCUM LEAK!
been bugging me for months replaced a bunch of stuff, at least all the bits needed replacing anyway. In the end its a huge sucking hole in the intake gasket. Anyway, is it possible to replace the intake manifold gasket without pulling everything on the intake side apart? and perhaps as a temporary fix, any suggestions for a "goo" to fill the hole with? Its probably ~4mm long and 2mm or so wide (the gasket itself has come out) a little. I'm worried if silicon sticks, it wont unstick and gasket goo type substances might be a bit too weak to fill the hole. |
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| metasaiah |
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Just do it right and do it once man. You've demonstrated before that a little effort produces great results (your lifter exchange thread was awesome) so don't muck around. It's not as scary as opening up your engine. New gasket shouldn't cost much at all and the whole job will be done in a couple of hours.
_________________ EF2 Fairmont Ghia. AU2 engine running EF gear. Intake, exhaust, injection etc; 8" rear stockies with 265/50R15 rubber. Shiftkitted auto, J3, custom grille and dash cluster and lots of other useless crap... |
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| phongus |
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Valen wrote: FREEKING VACCUM LEAK! been bugging me for months replaced a bunch of stuff, at least all the bits needed replacing anyway. In the end its a huge sucking hole in the intake gasket. Anyway, is it possible to replace the intake manifold gasket without pulling everything on the intake side apart? and perhaps as a temporary fix, any suggestions for a "goo" to fill the hole with? Its probably ~4mm long and 2mm or so wide (the gasket itself has come out) a little. I'm worried if silicon sticks, it wont unstick and gasket goo type substances might be a bit too weak to fill the hole. Yes you can replace the gasket without removing everything on the intake side. Just have to remove the air intake upper and lower box to gain access to lower intake bolts and maybe some electrical wiring. loosen/remove the lower intake bolts first and then the upper. You then need to remove the front and back bolts that hold the support bracket in place on the underside of the BBM. Then you can just move the BBM slightly away from the head, remove gasket and replace with the new one. I have done this twice and for me it was easy due to my long and skinny Asian hands.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
You don't even need to loosen/remove the support bracket bolts. just take out all the flange bolts and lean on the intake and the old gasket will fall out, then just slip the new one in dry and put the bolts back in.
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| Valen |
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I will do the gasket replacement honest
 But the missus has a trip planned tomorrow and I was hoping for something I could apply in that time frame, I'm currently leaning towards some aluminium foil tape I have laying around somewhere if i can A find it and B get it on there otherwise any goo suggestions with 20 minute drying time would be appreciated ;-> I'll have to show you guys the spark plug leads that were on there, epoxy and electrical tape on 2 of the ends at the coil pack |
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| EL___Fairmont |
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tickford_6 wrote: You don't even need to loosen/remove the support bracket bolts. just take out all the flange bolts and lean on the intake and the old gasket will fall out, then just slip the new one in dry and put the bolts back in. I spent an extra 10-20mins d**k around undoing that bastard heater bypass support bracket bolt at the back lol,... Your right about the inlet manifold gasket just slipping out and the new one fitting straight in.. cheers......
_________________ Current ride 2007 |
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| frd906n |
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Just be carefull nothing drops in the inlet mainfold when ur applying the goo, when i did my gasket on my old engine we pulled it out and fell to bits in my hands
_________________ Daily Driver, Series 1 Au Forte Quote: Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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| Lowlane7 |
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Shouldn't really need goo on the intake anyway, the gaskets are really thick and compress a little.
I don't have any on mine and it's ok, I've reused it 2 times too. As mentioned it also saves the risk of it oozing into the port, blocking an injector or somthing...
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
using goo now will mean a full manifold out job later to clean out all the crud you put in.
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| Valen |
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The foil tape (I'm calling it race tape in honor of the day ;->) did the job ;->
drastically improved idle, although it stalled once or twice on returning from revs and dropped low and recovered after that, but it was getting better slowly, so i pulled the battery for a bit and it was right as rain. I figure it was learning to use the idle air valve again ;-> So whats involved in replacing the gasket? just unbolt all the bolts that hold the intake side onto the engine? Theres enough other supports and such under it so it doesn't go crashing through things? |
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| Lowlane7 |
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Should be easy as that,
12 bolts out, pull it a little to get the old gasket out then line up the new one and do the bolts back up.
_________________ [color=#004080]Cheers, Jacob. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
there are support bracket at each end, leaving these in place will hold the manifold in place.
I've never had to do anymore then simply removing the bolts that hold the manifold to the head. Removing the airbox will help with access to some of the bolts and go and send a few dollars on a 10mm ratchet spanner |
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| Valen |
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Will give it a go tomorrow.
Thanks for the help guys, I'll try and put up a guide on it for the next person who asks. It seems that these things fail fairly often by the sound of things, is there a better option for the gasket than the cardboard type stuff that it seems to come with? I'm guessing the failure mode is differential expansion of the hot block and the cold (ish) intake. Being on the "cold" side perhaps a silicon gasket would do? There is one tick left in the engine, its intermittent though, might be an exhaust leak I'll have to wait till I hear it again and whip out the stethoscope hose I also have the stuff for writeups on cleaning the idle air valve and installing cruise control, so I'll get round to them soon. |
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| frd906n |
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ticking noise could just be you injectors working
_________________ Daily Driver, Series 1 Au Forte Quote: Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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| Valen |
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nah its only one cylinder and you can hear it echoing off buildings.
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