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| xf_xr6 |
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dddp! wrote: xf_xr6 wrote: Never had any of these problems in the old EL. As for the switch, is it a genuine one you get from ford, or is it a copy by a third party? it's ford switch, stamped with ford and original part number e73b-13480, replacement part number is e73z-13480 - box says assembled in mexico - there are stickers on the box that cover other writing - you can safely bet it also fits other models switch has ~2mm travel to activated it, that ain't much, and that travel is fixed and can't be altered - tho i might see if i can change that, after all i managed to pull it apart (the one in my car - i still have the original switch) and reassembled it last night  if it hada been a copy i woulda been surprised if it didn't have the faults of the original I'd assume that ef/el have the same part numbers, but are they different by any chance and would an EL one fit. Again i'm assuming you have an ef... |
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| dddp! |
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yes the numbers are different (but only the z and the b, maybe z = mexico?), maybe the replacement is for an EL, i don't know, visually they are indentical
i have no idea if the b one is original, it was in the car when i got it at 83,000ks - am now on 177,000ks and 2nd switch which i've kept alive also a nice tip about bending the top plate a tad, i like it when people do ghetto mods to make crap designs work properly 
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| madmax |
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I replaced mine twice in the 4 years I owned the EL. In that time I also tried bending the plate. Seem to work for a few months but it soon failed again.
Only way to fix it is to replace them. At least they are not very expensive and 5 minute job to fix.
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| dddp! |
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twr7cx wrote: but there a prick to fit I find, fidly and anoiying,thats the bit that I hate the most!
it's the locking pin design i think that sucks, am awkard bastard at the best of times let alone when it's stuck up under the dash and you need a periscope neck to see the sucker |
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| arm79 |
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dddp! wrote: arm79 wrote: I think you guys are either having bad luck, or doing something wrong. Yellowing/foggy headlights are caused by using non UV cut globes after the original factory ones failed. Use the proper globes. And its a Ford. One must expect to change a headgasket every now and then. how can you do something wrong with a brake light switch, it either works or it doesn't and on headlights, i've only ever used uv cut globes so that's that idea shot down in flames - the previous owner (2 owner car) had never changed them either but still the headlights were really yellow when i bought the car there's plenty of fords drivng around that don't need the head gaskets changing, the problem was corrected in the AUs far as i know, so ford knew it was a problem but did sfa about fixing it for owners of the ef and el models - they just made a killing on selling AU style gaskets to the poor owners (it's not the only faulty part that was corrected in AUs, the thermostat was too, no doubt there's more) I've seen promotional material from Phillips and Hella with a picture of an typical yellowed EF headlight, with the details of how the yellowing was caused by non UV cut globes. How can you say the owner never changed the globes, even that Ford didnt put the correct ones in. Strange when the globe manufacturers are saying that the problem is caused by their products, which were incorrectly picked and installed by the vehicle owner. 
And AU's still do head gaskets. Just less often. When my EL first went into Ford for its first head gasket change, there were 3 AU's next to it getting the same job done. Go figure. 
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| dddp! |
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[quote="arm79"]
How can you say the owner never changed the globes, even that Ford didnt put the correct ones in. quote] i phoned the old codger after i bought the car, by the way he aswered my questions i'd say he did nothing to the car himself, he got the dealer to do everything - ford could have put the wrong ones in i guess, be unlikely tho wouldn't they come to ford as an assembly made by hella(?) i don't recall seeing any other lenses that yellow as much as these ones do - there must be an awful lot of poly carb lenses out there i keep it under control with plexus, but it's PITA |
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| madmax |
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I agree its not the globes its the plastic. Non UV stabilised plastic and sunlight that's why its the outside of the light that is effected.
And of course Hella & Phillips are going to claim that, "Its not our fault its the owners they put the wrong globes in" Plenty of other polycarbonate headlights out there without this problem. With just as many owners putting in any kind of globe they can find.
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| Ferrett |
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Those darn brake switches. You don't know there gone until you're told. I've done three, in quick succession with two at same time as first failed in a day, and i'm told its a regular thing, like buying a cheap light globe that is blown from shop.
I agree with above, just buy em and replace em and put up with the flaw, or change cars. As for the yellow headlights, done the whole sand and buff repair. Even replaced globes with brighter bluish expensive ones. I was at least able to see to drive at night but on inspection they are yellowing again. About time I retired my 97 EL as 10 years is too long for a falcon/fairmont. A nice BA turbo or Territory Turbo would be nice? Does anyone know if there is a solution to the crappy terrotory 4WD e.g. aftermarket lock up diff or low range bolt on??? Otherwise to me its just a raised up all wheel drive sedan i.e. like suubbies were only ever designed for european gravel and snowy roads
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| madmax |
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The territory is not promoted as a 4WD it is a all wheel drive with some off road ability. That's why there is no low range.
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| Ferrett |
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madmax wrote: The territory is not promoted as a 4WD it is a all wheel drive with some off road ability. That's why there is no low range.
Yes I was aware of this. But 4Wder's being an ingeneous mob, I thought someone would have found some parts to mod one to be more off road and beach friendly After all an old Landcruiser I owned was given a nice little bolted on overdrive to act as a fifth gear so its tits weren't revved off at 70 mph (yes it was that old). And whilst I did not posses it, a air lock diff was apparantly a good thing. I be a $1 you could make a territory into a 4WD quite cheaply very soon, hopefully with a decent lift kit
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| madmax |
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Ferrett wrote: madmax wrote: The territory is not promoted as a 4WD it is a all wheel drive with some off road ability. That's why there is no low range. Yes I was aware of this. But 4Wder's being an ingeneous mob, I thought someone would have found some parts to mod one to be more off road and beach friendly After all an old Landcruiser I owned was given a nice little bolted on overdrive to act as a fifth gear so its tits weren't revved off at 70 mph (yes it was that old). And whilst I did not posses it, a air lock diff was apparantly a good thing. I be a $1 you could make a territory into a 4WD quite cheaply very soon, hopefully with a decent lift kit I sure someone will do it one day.
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| TwistedEL |
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OT, but thanks to Ferrett's sig it took about 20 minutes to read 5 posts...
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| twase |
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I pulled an old switch apart tonight out of interest. It was replaced 13 months ago because the lights were on 24x7. It has Ford on it so its genuine, the switch has a thin spring steel arm with the contact on one end. The spring steel had fatigued almost all the way through with no spring left in it.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| snap0964 |
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Falcon heads: Does any car running an alloy head/cast iron block combination (dissimilar metals) not encounter problems at some stage down the line ???
Polycarbonate headlights: madmax wrote: I agree its not the globes its the plastic. Non UV stabilised plastic and sunlight that's why its the outside of the light that is effected. I'll agree as well - wouldn't the inside of the lenses deteriorate if the globes are a source, aside from the issue of using too high a power rating, which we know does melt the holders and surrounds.
I remember a few people saying a while ago that headlight protectors seem to preserve the lens - my XH has had them on since new, and the lights look like new, so there may be something to it. EF/EL brake light switch: Been a few posts in the past recommending petitions, etc. Best way is to improvise. 4 diodes, 1 relay, 1 LED and resistor + an afternoon can make a warning circuit with backup brakelighting using the cruise control master cylinder switch - i.e. if the switch fails, you get a warning light, and brake lights still operate as per normal. After 18 months of operation, it works well on both my cars - I've had a few switch fails - at least I still have brakelights in peak hour traffic. I can then replace the brake light switch at my next opportunity. You can even add a 'press to test' switch to test the circuit.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| fordnuttz |
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I know the yellow headlights is a result of sun and water. The covers protect them from the UV rays but also stop lots of water from sitting on them when it rains. As most people drive (or should drive) with their lights on when its raining the hest from the lights react with the water and can cause yellowing.
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